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  1. #1
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    Oct 2005
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    Default Recommend a way to sand this easily?

    Hi Guys,

    I am making this piece (a small speaker stand) and I need to sand it nicely. I can do all the curves by hand of course, but I need to do about 200 of them now.

    I was thinking a flap wheel might be the way to go, but I've never used one and I've seen some say they are really for metal.

    Any recommendations on method and specific tools?

    Thanks,
    Simon


  2. #2
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    Sep 2013
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    I would use a spindle sander. I or it you can use a template a flush cutting bit on a table router would be the other way to get a nice clean surface. Cheers WC

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  4. #3
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    May 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tenson View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I am making this piece (a small speaker stand) and I need to sand it nicely. I can do all the curves by hand of course, but I need to do about 200 of them now.
    ................................................

    Thanks,
    Simon

    Simon,

    A photograph would help a lot - otherwise people are having to guess what sort of curves are involved when they are trying to provide advice.

    RoyG
    Manufacturer of the Finest Quality Off-Cuts.

  5. #4
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    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Collector View Post
    I would use a spindle sander. I or it you can use a template a flush cutting bit on a table router would be the other way to get a nice clean surface. Cheers WC
    I agree with Wood Collector. A flapwheel might round your edges off.

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  7. #5
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    a couple of thaughts ...... first you may wish to modify your design for efficient sanding.
    In particular that inside narrow curve.

    That done I would be looking as a stationary belt sander....... if that narrow curve is made larger than the end roller of the belt sander the whole thing would be a snack.


    The other thing that will improve efficiency is pre snading and prefinishing at various stages ..... I would at least have all 3 pieces finshed to sanding sealer and sanded stage before assembly

    I would not discount a flap wheel or flutter sheets in the final stages ...... something arround 180grit ...... will denib and smooth those edges without roiding the corners too much

    AND defientely use a sanding sealer it will make getting a god finish much easier
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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  9. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    Ohio
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    Default

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444484045.261817.jpg
    This would be my preference

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  11. #7
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    Default

    Roy G, can you not see the photo I attached?

    I can't make the small inside curve much larger or it will totally change the design. Certainly no way to make it fit the end of my belt sander. To give some scale the support plate is about 10cm square.

    I need to do first sanding at about 120grit and finish with 220grit.

    If I used a drum sander in my pillar drill, do you advise a hard or foam drum??

  12. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Pneumatic drum is what you need.

  13. #9
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    Default

    i'd stick with the belt sander for the majority and only use a drum for the one small curve.

    Drum sanders have the tendancy to dig holes and because they don't have the area they go thru abrasive like its going out of style


    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  14. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
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    Hi Would definitely agree with others,as you are making bulk quantity a bobbin sander is the way to go.
    You can get decent oscillating types quite cheaply and do a good job.

    Routing with a pattern bit is good too.

  15. #11
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    Aug 2005
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    Queensland
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    Drum sander in a drill press. Rubber or pneumatic, your choice, personally I would go with the rubber.

    Attach a sacrificial timber base which sits on the drill press stage, drill a large enough hole in the timber base to allow the drum sander to sit into the hole. The work piece slides on the base while the drill press keeps the drum at 90 degrees to the work piece. The hole in the sacrificial base allows you to deepen the drum and expose fresh grit to the job.

    If a router and template were used to initially cut the shape then there should be very little to clean up. Ply is good but can be hard on router bits so use a good quality bit.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  16. #12
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    Sep 2013
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    Cherrybrook,NSW
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    If you get yourself some cleaning sticks for the spindle or drum sander it will prolong the life of the sand paper. Cheers WC

  17. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Dungog
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    Have done similar type of work( not that quantity) but had great success doing the way Bob38s explained.
    Good luck with the project

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