



Results 16 to 21 of 21
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4th February 2007, 10:26 AM #16
I wouldn't be allowed up your ladder even without the hammer.
I have an attic/loft ladder rated at 130Kg but prefer to use a small winch to haul anything heavy up into loft.
Ladders leaning up against gutters are accidents waiting to happen. Typically people over reach and the ladder slides out from under them. when the wifes uncles did this he cracked his head on the side of his pool and rolled into the water - unconcious. If his dog hadn't raised a racket his missus would not have come outside to see what had happened,
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4th February 2007, 12:10 PM #17
Nothing to do with ladders but Stihl used to have an extension with a bend for the garden blowers, just fit on the blower, the 'U' bend would point into the gutter and blow away all the compost.
Don't do it on a BBQ day thoughStupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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5th February 2007, 03:48 PM #18
Remove the gutters, no more ladder worries.
Best thing I ever did to those gutters!
-- Wood Listener--
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6th February 2007, 10:58 AM #19No gutters, well that's one way out of it
. Not sure how that would go with Australian tiles and our fascia boards, don't think they would last quite as long without gutters though.
Soundman, your idea about removing the top rung is interesting, it would be a lot easier but I thought it would weaken the ladder somewhat, however it sounds as though you've spent a lot of time up on ladders so maybe it wouldn't weaken the ladder much.
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7th February 2007, 12:15 AM #20
It is actualy best to order the ladder top rung out when you buy one ( special order.
Yeh it does weaken the lader a bit but only at the very top and its never been a problem for me.
I need top rung out for working on poles. I run a chain at the top most times.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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7th February 2007, 11:55 AM #21
Tiger,
The issue of height safety when on a ladder is two fold, as an engineering officer with an electricity authority we have these issues all the time.
First up if you want to work from a ladder you must wear a ladder safety belt unless you can maintain 3 points of contact (2 feet & 1 hand / 2 hands & 1 foot etc).
Alternatively you may find your more comfortable moving around on the roof rather than actually standing on the ladder. Using a blower on a ladder one handed is almost impossible and leaning out to one side on the ladder is dangerous. If this is the case invest in some roof safety points, a good quality harness and an adjustable "lanyard" which should prevent you falling off the roof and use the ladder to access the roof only. The provision to prevent you falling from the roof is dependant on the shape of the roof and the positioning of tie off points and running ropes etc.
Find the most comfortable position for you to stand the ladder then have fitted some eye bolts to give upper and lower tie off points - remember the ladder needs to be at a 4:1 ratio of hieght to distance laid forward. The bottom rope needs a single point to prevent the ladder base moving outward away from the wall. The upper tie off should have 2 points (one each side) to prevent the ladder moving away from the wall or sideways to the wall.
There are many height safety companies around where you can get tie off points supplied and most especially fitted. There are many knuckleheads out there who would advocate installing your own tie off points, but I'd want to know that if I went over the edge by accident (lack of conerntration etc) that the safety system designed to pull me up wont tear out of the mounting points.
This is an expensive way to go but in the long run is generally safer than trying to continually position a ladder, tie it off and working with a ladder safety belt.
If you what to go into more depth PM me.______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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