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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Default Does Silky Oak need grain filling?

    G'day All,

    I have just bought some silky oak to use for a desk top, that will end up approx 550 wide x 2300 long, and was wondering if it silky oak benefits from grain filling.

    I purchased at the requisite materials at the Brisbane wood show, so I'm raring to go if needed.

    I was going to use Wongos' 3 part finish (linseed/tung/poly).

    All suggestions welcomed.

    Stuart J.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Default

    Stuart, the stuff I've finished has varied a bit, with some pieces pretty open pored esp close to the pith.

    It also often has some fairly delicate pastel or at least pale colours that an oil finish does nothing for. So for turned pieces I'm now using n/c sanding sealer and Shithot wax stick. The stick won't work for you so any hard clear coat over a grain-filling sealer would be my recommendation. But as always, try it first in a hidden spot to see if you like the result.

    Good luck.
    Cheers, Ern

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Hi Brizylad,
    Depends on the end-result you are after. SO is a relatively open-grained wood, so if you want a glassy smooth finish, you will need to fill, or be prepared to put in a heck of a lot of work if you want to fill with shellac during a traditional French polishing process. Southern SO (Grevillea), which is most likely what you've got if you bought it at the show, polishes quite well. I use a pale filler under regular (flake) shellac, & it 'disappears' well.

    Northern SO (Cardwellia) is usually more coarse & open-grained, & I have never tried to polish it, though I'm sure you could. My preference is to use a finish like the one you mention, & my own choice is a mix of equal parts turps, a good "scandinavian" type oil, & poly. This is more water-tolerant than straight oil, and gives a nice low sheen, without the heavy 'build' of straight polys. I just slosh it on & wipe off before it gets sticky - quick & easy! 3 to 4 coats usually does it, depending on how thick you want. After it's good & dry, rub down with some Ubeaut wax & fine steel wool, or if you don't like steel wool, use a synthetic scouring pad. This improves the sheen & gives a really tactile surface .......
    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    To Ian and Ern

    Not sure if it is northern or southern as I have not actually seen it yet. I will be picking it up next weekend and will get a good idea then.

    I will have a bit to test as it is nearly 0.9 cube.

    SWMBO is getting a bit testy because the desk is taking a while to come together, but she keeps wanting other "LITTLE" jobs done.

    This will be my first serious solid timber project, so I'll try to get some photo's.

    Stuart J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Quote Originally Posted by brizylad View Post
    ..........SWMBO is getting a bit testy because the desk is taking a while to come together, but she keeps wanting other "LITTLE" jobs done.

    This will be my first serious solid timber project, so I'll try to get some photo's.
    Cheer up - my desk has been sitting as a flatpack on the workshop floor for over 3 years. I made a great start on it, then we moved house, so with that, building & fitting out the new shed, yard work, house maintenence, etc. it stalled. I really want to get it done, both to have the desk, & to get the damn thing out of the way, but it's a complex piece which needs care & time, & the latter has been in very short supply these last few years!

    Photos are mandatory....

    Cheers,
    IW

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