you fellas just don't talk about hand planes enough !

[Iain]

Because men are perfect, like me, body like a God, even if it is Buddha

[Auld Bassoon]

This topic of why we don't talk about hand planes enough has been discussed before.

BTW I left my LV low angle block plane out of it's box for a week and it's gone all rusty. Bloody salt air :mad:

Keep the coated brown paper the planes from both LV and LN come wrapped in, and don't spare the Camelia Oil.

Even a fingerprint (perhaps even especially a fingerprint because of the salt) will cause a rust spot at worst or maybe just a tarnish mark.

I don't find corrosion to be a big deal in Melbourne, but one still has to take care...

[Auld Bassoon]

Just for a bit more plane talking, why are some women described as "plane"? (Do not correct spelling). It cannot be because their features need planing and they are never the type who have been smoothed and polished to a finished product?
And why are men never described as plane?

Because blokes are more discriminating?

Ducks and runs for cover....

[Bodgy]

This topic of why we don't talk about hand planes enough has been discussed before.

BTW I left my LV low angle block plane out of it's box for a week and it's gone all rusty. Bloody salt air :mad:

I notice on my lovingly restored plane collection, that when I grasp them with a sweaty hand, the imprint stays on the steel and, if not wiped, will start to corrode. This is despite a protective coating of SilverGlide on sole and cheeks and Camelia Oil on the irons. I now try to pick them up by the wood bits or the frog area.

Are we getting a little too precious?

There you go Jake, we're talking about planes!

[Mirboo]

Keep the coated brown paper the planes from both LV and LN come wrapped in, and don't spare the Camelia Oil.

Lie-Nielsen have stopped shipping their planes in the Ferro-Pak corrosion inhibiting paper. Now they are sealed in a light blue see-through plastic bag which I assume has some corrosion inhibiting properties. This is then wrapped in white paper, kind of like butchers paper, and then the whole thing is placed in the standard corrugated cardboard box.

[silentC]

Keep the coated brown paper

I keep it wrapped in that usually, but I left it out this once

Are we getting a little too precious

Possibly but they seem to work better when they are nice and shiny

[TassieKiwi]

Silent - I got one of the LV socks which keeps the corrosion at bay. EEE and steel wool should fix. I have camielia but I reckon trad wax is better. I have decided that I am getting too precious though. after all, that 'patina' has to start somewhere.

My favourite other plane is the Sea Fury. The most impressive combustion engine fighter I have ever seen in flight. Top speed is greater than the Skyhawk.

[silentC]

I use trad wax on all my planes and machines. Good stuff. Looks good as a finish too

I was too worried about using it before because it was so shiny. Now it's just another tool

Spitfire for me.

[TEEJAY]

Does that "silverglide" work fine on hand planes?

I know it is good on the bandsaw top and also on the thicknesser top but a handplane . . . ???

[JDarvall]

Spitfire for me.

For me too. Can't be beat that one. Heard that there's enough still flyable about that they've actually started manufacturing new parts for it.

[keith53]

Well, I need one. Just a little one, mind. I'd like to take the edges off some of my boxes with a nice, sharp blade as opposed to sanding like buggery. I don't know what sort of plane I need, but preferrably something I can fit in my hand with a razor sharp (or the capacity to keep so) blade. I do have a hand plane (apart from the Makita) but, sadly, its a cheap Chinese copy (Footprint). It does keep a good edge though but is much too large for box making. I've had it for years and do use it on occasion, and this is the first time I've publicly said so.

[Bodgy]

Does that "silverglide" work fine on hand planes?

I know it is good on the bandsaw top and also on the thicknesser top but a handplane . . . ???

Don't really know.

I use it on all my planes soles and cheeks, it seems to work if you don't use them, but it wears off the sole very quickly when in use and then sort of becomes sticky until you re-apply.

I don't think there's any panacea. There are too many variables for me to be definitive. Its great for machine tables tho.

The best advice I've had is to keep a small vegemite jar full of wax (I use the $2 Bunnies stuff) and fill it with cotton rags. Keep it next to the bench when planing and evry 10 minutes or so, glide the plane sole over the waxy cotton.

I do notice that Camelia oil is great for my chisels, no rust, even after the Sydney rain - and my shed leaks.

I think we should all just accept the patina, like they have for 300 years.

[silentC]

I don't know what sort of plane I need, but preferrably something I can fit in my hand with a razor sharp (or the capacity to keep so) blade.

What you need is a block plane. Like my rusty Lee Valley low angle block. Or one of the Stanleys like a #9 1/2 or #60. Give Hans Brunner a ring, he always has a heap lying about for around the $80 to $100 mark.

[Bodgy]

If its a block you're after, they are on Epay in their dozens. From $5 up. Think mine was about $10, no idea the make, but its a good, solid block plane. Would love one of the ones with the brass knob to adjust the iron tho, belting it with a hammer to adjust is ruining my karma.

[silentC]

Think mine was about $10 ... Would love one of the ones with the brass knob to adjust the iron tho, belting it with a hammer to adjust is ruining my karma.

See? You get what you pay for