timber decking

[ThePope]

Yeah, sounds reasonable if you want to grade the surface into your pit.

"Will that mean that the bearers take some of the load off the joists as they are the same level?"
Not entirely sure what you're asking here.

And the footing size you mentioned is fine.

[Pulse]

Sorry Boban, Talking about joist cantilever not decking overhang, my mistake

about the drainage make sure it drains away from the house. Weed mat would be better than black plastic. Cover the mat with gravel and slope towards drainage pit and away from the house.

As far as the bearers taking some load off the joists, obviously the one decking board on the bearer is supported by the bearer only but that makes no difference to the design at all.

Cheers
Pulse

[XT4V]

thanks for the advice on all above questions. now that is all out the way, I have a few design questions I need answered by you blokes

With the decking I am going to build, I am thinking of using the following:

• 90 x 90 treated pine stumps
• 90 x 45 hardwood bearers (is f14 suitable, do I need to treat it with something to prevent rot?)
• 90 x 35 hardwood joists (same as above, does it need to be treated?)
• Not sure what size, but merbau reeded ad decking

Few questions:
1. With the 90 x 45 bearers, what stump spacing is required? From memory, it will be 1200?

2. Will joist span of 450 centre to centre be sufficient?

3. What nails should I use for nailing the decking material to joists?

4. What nails should I use for nailing bearers to stumps, and joists to bearers (NB: I will be using joist hangers).

[kobes]

on it's way...

Hi ThePope
Could you possibly send me the pdf that you have sent to untamed -([email protected])?
I am also in a similar predicament with my deck, and am a very, very much a 'newbie!!.

It will be 36m2 with 3x1 steps at differing locations.
The deck will be partially laid over an existing concrete surface and attached to the brickwork (Bottom course) on the house. The concrete is sheltered by the house - will I be able to attach joists and bearers directly to the bricks and concrete, without great issues?

I am using 1.8mx200mm dia round posts at 1m spacings around the far garden edge, with recessed diagonally laid 60mm blackbutt boards.
Ground clearance should not be major concern, however drainage will be. The ground slopes toward the house and is heavy clay. I have two stormwater drains on the lower/house edge which I intend to 'channel' water too, over weed-matting...

- this is probably the biggest task I have ever undertaken in home reno, so am treading gently and leading up slowly to Build day (Wife and her Mum are giving me heaps for all the delays!! lol!)

If anyone can advise the best place to shop for appropriate Joists, bearers, posts, boards, - in fact the whole thing, this would help greatly - I live in Greystanes NSW.

I have read this thread and siphoned off great info to help so far, but anyone who feels that they can advise further will find me forever grateful.
Cheers

[ThePope]

untamed...
the deck is 5x4m isn't it, which direction do the bearers run and does the deck attach to the house on one or more sides.

[ThePope]

will I be able to attach joists and bearers directly to the bricks and concrete, without great issues?

Is usually a simple affair, but you need pay attention to how water runs off the concrete (patio I guess) and not trap it when you lay the deck framing on top.

[XT4V]

it is about 4.5 (length ways, the way the deck boards run) x 3.5

The deck will connect to the house by the way of 2 ledgers. One of the two ledgers will act as a beam/bearer, the other will be a connection point for the other beam(s). Can I use joist hangers to connect up bearers to a ledger?

If the above didnt make sense, I will need to draw it up and post a scanned image.

[ThePope]

ok this is the way I'd do it,

90x90 posts, fine
90x45 bearers, change to 150x50 hwd
90x38 joists, change to 100x50 hwd

100x50 ledger bolted to one wall (4500mm)
just the one bearer in the middle, posts at both ends and three in the middle
as you're so close to ground paint your bearers and joists with creosote or similar
all nails galvanised and for decking use 50mm gal twist/deformed shank

"Can I use joist hangers to connect up bearers to a ledger?"
I wouldn't, so whack a post under

[XT4V]

sweet, thanks for the plans and advice.

I dont think its possible to run posts under the beams at the second ledger wall due to a stormwater pipe running the lenght of that wall. That and the fact that I dont want to be mashing up concrete footings.

Will it be structurally sound to mount the bearers to a second ledger, or is it too dodgy?

[XT4V]

I have drawn a plan in mspaint. I used a span table for F17 hardwood which will still allow me to get away with 90x45 bearers for added ground clearance (http://www.pryda.com.au/uploads/mbst%20f17.pdf). I hope I have understood this table correctly, otherwise my deck plan is way out of wack

can you please review my deck plan and give feedback on it? I know you have advised not to use a second ledger, but its a very tight situation I havent drawn in the joists, but they will be hung with joist hangers and with 450mm centre spacing.

by the way, correct size of deck in pic. 4.8 x 3.0

[aussieglen]

[quote=untamed]
With the decking I am going to build, I am thinking of using the following:

Few questions:

3. What nails should I use for nailing the decking material to joists?


I have just completed 2 decks (front and back) with teated pine 90 x 22 boards ( grooved face up) and have used "Stealth Decking Fastners" throughout (see link http://deckone.com/ ). They are not cheap but you dont need to nail the boards in the usual way thus punching and splitting :eek: is not an issue. I found them to be superior to nailing and the finished job without nail heads is more pleasing.

Hope this helps
Aussieglen

[barrysumpter]

This is the method I used for hard wood Merbu decking that split when using a nail gun:

"The standard strong suggestion is to predrill holes and use the twisted shank Gal nails."

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...read.php?t=961

However, if you are using Soft Wood Treated Pine then you may be able to use a gun with the twisted shank gal nails.

The hammer head indents come out with time and weather changes with Merbu.
The splitting has only occured to 1 piece and was actually already there when the deck was built.
As I took great care in selecting each piece.

I've gone back over all nails only once since built.
And haven't noted the need to do so again since.

You may find heaps of other posts conserning how I built my deck.
I logged as much info on here as I could, for just this reason.

Search for: Sumpter Deck

I've also just picked up the follwoing at Bunnings:
Decks & Pergolas Construction Manual - 2nd Edition - by Allan Stains

And took a TAFE class for building Decks and Pergolas.



hth

[ThePope]

can you please review my deck plan...

from page 4 of your span tables:
Musclebeam F17 is not recommended for direct exposure to the weather or to humid inside conditions...

the engineered timber would cost you a small fortune anyway.

Ok, this is my final offer

Delete the 150x50 bearer and use either 90x90 TP or 100x75 hwd, sit on top of your posts and run some hoop iron strap around (blue). With either of those sizes you can reduce your posts by one, only need two in the middle.

90x45 TP or 100x50 hwd joists, using 35 or 38 you got much more chance of getting splits along the centre of the joist when you nail your decking on. As your deck is 3000 wide treated pine joists will be ok for that span (approx 1400mm)

Where you attach the bearer to the ledger get a length of 50x50 gal steel angle bolted on and the bearer can sit on that. Bolt it well around the ledger and bearer junction.

You can use standard F11 Hardwood or go for F7 Treated Pine, if it were mine I'd definately use treated pine.

[ThePope]

And took a TAFE class for building Decks and Pergolas.
hth

interesting, what sort of time span did the course run for.

[XT4V]

from page 4 of your span tables:
Musclebeam F17 is not recommended for direct exposure to the weather or to humid inside conditions...

the engineered timber would cost you a small fortune anyway.

Ok, this is my final offer

Delete the 150x50 bearer and use either 90x90 TP or 100x75 hwd, sit on top of your posts and run some hoop iron strap around (blue). With either of those sizes you can reduce your posts by one, only need two in the middle.

90x45 TP or 100x50 hwd joists, using 35 or 38 you got much more chance of getting splits along the centre of the joist when you nail your decking on. As your deck is 3000 wide treated pine joists will be ok for that span (approx 1400mm)

Where you attach the bearer to the ledger get a length of 50x50 gal steel angle bolted on and the bearer can sit on that. Bolt it well around the ledger and bearer junction.

You can use standard F11 Hardwood or go for F7 Treated Pine, if it were mine I'd definately use treated pine.

Awesome, thanks again bud.

What does the hoop iron do exactly? Also, where the bearer sits on the 50x50 gal steel angle, do I need to bolt the bearer to the angle, or can I just nail it from each side into the ledger?