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8th February 2008, 08:39 AM #1
Pipe gauge ??? for you plumbing boys
Guys, been nearly 20yrs from my coppersmithing days when I used to build Hospiital Sterilizers.
Anyway, I want to install a an airline in my 2 sheds and I am thinking of using 3/4" tube for main line with 1/2" for the droplines.
Should I use 16# or 18#?
Also want to put a drain valve on the end of each drop line to keep the condensation to a minimum, was think of 3/8 ball valve, what do you reckon or is there a cheaper valve out there that would be up to the job?
Hopefully I won't get too much condensation in the line as I will be building a condenser for it as well.
So with all that in mind, what should I be expected to pay roughly for;
3/4" tube 16 or 18# hard drawn 6mt lengths
1/2" tube 16 or 18# hard drawn 6mt lengths
3/8" ball valves
Thanks for ya helpCheers
DJ
ADMIN
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8th February 2008, 10:34 AM #2
- $2.00 per fitting- nipples, tees, elbows,
- class b copper is what you need,
- 1/2 inch - $30 check with your local
- 3/4 inch - $45 supplier on these
- Brass ball valve $5.00
- Use 15% silver soder due to high stresses involved ( it's more flexible)
- run pipe at slight fall to drain end ideal 20mm/M, no less than 10mm/M
- Use gas thread tape and gas thread seal paste.
Prices vary from state to state quite a bit so you'll need to ring a plumbing supplier.dIf you dont play it, it's not an instrument!
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8th February 2008, 11:29 AM #3
So thats the reason we don't have enough hospitals!
D J - sterilized them 20 years ago!
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8th February 2008, 12:53 PM #4
Thanks bricks
, that gives me a starting point, won't look like a complete dill when I walk in the plumbing supplies joint.
you're a funny man Linden, didn't build them quite that big, but did build one big enough to drive a couple of Mini's into
.
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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8th February 2008, 01:01 PM #5Cheers.
Vernon.
__________________________________________________
Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.
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8th February 2008, 02:31 PM #6
May I just add that off your main 3/4 run, take the 1/2 branches off the top and back down, this will eliminate NEARLY all condensation going down to the valve and still run the main line with slight fall with a tail pipe at the end. Dont use white tape, its rubbish. You can use either the pink or yellow stuff, the yellow stuff is formulated a little differently as hydrocarbon gases for some reason has a reaction to something in the tape which makes it harden and crack. As Bricks said type B copper tube is the way to go, I belive that 5% silver will do the job, compressed air wont out perform the solder and its around $12 cheaper PER STICK!!!!
$45 for a length of 3/4, man im driving to Adelaide to buy a sling!!!!
$45 is the absolute dirt cheapest you'd be lucky to find here as a plumber off the street and it will be the korean or chinese stuff. A mate of mine who works for a large construction mob says they buy it by the container from china in 12m lengths, at around $1 per metre for 3/4!!!!Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter
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8th February 2008, 03:04 PM #7
Cheers W/P, did have the drop lines coming off the top in mind, with the drain valve about a foot or so below the connection point. Also going to have the mainline looped so that it is endless.
Thanks for the explaining the differences on the tape too.
I do have quite a few rods of different grades so I have several choices and won't be needing to buy any, also have at least 50 rods of 56% silver solder, so could use that, at $19 to $21 a stick I don't think so
I'll save that for the higher quality work
.
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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8th February 2008, 10:10 PM #8
Unless you you have the tubr already go for the plastic airline tube it's great stuff no soldering just conects with screw fittings drain valves atc all available to suit
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9th February 2008, 10:15 PM #9
Dj the product I refered to is MaXair, as I said if you don't already have tubing give this a look it's the best and simplest system I have ever used
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9th February 2008, 10:20 PM #10
Cheers China, will have a look into it
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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