How many of you have "mirror finish" tables...

[gabacus]

http://www.generalfinishes.com/

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10928

You could make it. It might take some experimentation but well worth it. I bought a large amount or I probably would have tried it by now.

I tried spraying it a couple of times so far with less the optimum results. I'm giving it another try today. Thats the problem with getting a stupid gun. You try to spray everything. I'd spray the neighbors cat if I could slow him down long enough to step on his tail.

Thanks for that JeffG. Unfortunately, I dont think there is any way to get this stuff to Australia I would like to think I could make my own mix but not prepared to go there at this time. Im still new to woodworking so I am focusing more on the building rather than the finishing... from what I have heard about this product I would not have had to think much about it oh well...

Good luck catching that cat. Maybe you should dress up your spray gun as a bird...

[JeffG.]

I understand

If you get bored and want to give it a try I would probably go

1 Part- boiled linseed oil
1 Part- gloss urethane
1 Part- mineral spirits or naptha, whatever is hanging around.

You want to put in the last part carefully, you don't want that to be too thin. Getting a good pad goes a long ways to getting it applied correctly.

[BrettC]

Use Wattyl (only wattyl) Scandinavial oil and flood the top and wait half an hour to soak and flood it again, then wet sand it going through the grits from 400# up to 2000# or 4000#

Hey Lignum - was in the local Bunnies the other day and had a look for some Wattyl Scandinavian Oil thinking that I'll have a little play with your 'recipe'. I found Wattyl Scandinavian Oil - Teak Oil - Is that the same stuff you use??

[Colin Howkins]

This may be a bit out of left field.

1. Sand timber down to about 1200 grit
2. Apply enough coats of polyurethane sanded back between each coat to about 600 untill all depressions and grain is filled with the coating.
3. Leave if for about 4-6 weeks to harden up
4. Buff with a very fine cut automotive cutting compound
5. Buff up with good quality automotive polish

The finish may not be true mirror finish, but it is very easy to bring back to a very high lustre - just more car polish

Colin Howkins
Graceville Qld

[JCCLARK]

I think nothing is easier to get a mirror finish with than lacquer.
I can finish an entire cabinet in a couple of hours, wait a couple
of days and rub out the top with some 2000 grit paper
followed with my car buffer. It's just to easy.

[waikune]

The secrete to a good 100% gloss finish is
1 A good sealer, then sanded
2 A good Top coat which has good film build
3 Then if required buff with buffing polish. Unles you have a spray booth then you will need to buff /sand 1200# to remove any fine dust that settles in drying.

The basic 3 options of spray coatings are NC Lacquer, Acid Cure (2 Pak) and Poluyrethane (2 Pak) Polyurethane is best as it provides best film build and gloss, and harder surface and excellent resistance to heat and chemicals unlike the others. There are importers in Melbourne who sell Polyurethane from IEurope regarded as the best.

Empradoor in Melbouren who paint all those High Gloss doors use Polyurethane and buff if required.

Hope this helps

[woodchisel]

Hi JCCLARK,

That's the way I like it, a degree in chemistry and dabbling in alchemy is not needed. If a decent mirror finish can be achieved without great fuss, and with an off the sheve product, just great.
I would be interested what type of product you use, 1 pack, 2 pack etc.

Cheers, woodchisel

[JCCLARK]

I use a local paint stores trade name lacquer.
I don't know who it's really made by, but the one in
the picture is just std furniture lacquer, not pre-cat.
A friend of mine just finished some cabinets with a
automotive urethane clear coat. That's an easier way to
get a rubbed out glossy finish and its a tougher finish.
It is expensive though.

[RichardL]

I have done the mirror finish a few times using Mirotone 2-pac Poly and wouldn't attempt it with anything else as its the only finish that will successfully hold the polished surface over the years. The coffee table below was done around 2.5 years ago and pretty much still looks as good as the day I finished it. Its a lot of work though with filling the grain(many coats and rubbing back) and final compounding and polishing.

Just my opinion but I wouldn't bother trying to get a high sheen/gloss with Danish oil or Organoil as it would be unlikely to last anyway. Standard finish for me now is 3 coats of DO and if I want some extra gloss, a few coats of Minwax wipe on poly.

Hi Matrix

love your tables, especially the top one. Are they of your own design? What is the timber? Is the inlay solid or veneer? What is the grey panel - it looks very smart.

[Jeff@G]

http://www.generalfinishes.com/

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10928

You could make it. It might take some experimentation but well worth it. I bought a large amount or I probably would have tried it by now.

I tried spraying it a couple of times so far with less the optimum results. I'm giving it another try today. Thats the problem with getting a stupid gun. You try to spray everything. I'd spray the neighbors cat if I could slow him down long enough to step on his tail.

Whats the best finish to use on a cat?
I'd love to seal mine...
The little buggers fur floats into every form of finish I try.

[JCCLARK]

Shave him bald!!!!

[Iain]

Docking the tail works, about 1/4" behind the ears.
Our Corgi has a similar affiction, one good shake and there is hair floating around for the next week.

[LGS]

I'd suggest "Fur Seal", but leave the bark attached.

Seriously, how do you end up with cat fur all over the piece. Are you finishing in its basket or does it live in the shed?

[martrix]

Hi Matrix

love your tables, especially the top one. Are they of your own design? What is the timber? Is the inlay solid or veneer? What is the grey panel - it looks very smart.

Hi Richard, yes they are my own designs. I like the coffee table the most. The only thing I would change on that would be to use square stainless steel instead of round in the 10mm reveal between the top and the table frame. I think at the time I used round stainless because that was all I could find.

The hall table is a little chunky IMHO.

The timber used is Redgum with Tas oak burl veneer inlay on the hall table and solid curly Vic Ash on the coffee table.

The 'grey' panels in the coffee table are 6mm sandblasted glass which the back is then sprayed with a silver automotive lacquer.

cheers for the comments.

[BobL]

Hi Matrix

love your tables, especially the top one. Are they of your own design? What is the timber? Is the inlay solid or veneer? What is the grey panel - it looks very smart.

Richard, having seen a couple of Martix's tables in the flesh they look every bit as good (maybe more) than the pictures, cool design and real nice use of materials.

RE using car polish.
I did this once by a kind of accident. I have to admit is worked (nice hard shiny surface) but you really need to keep any silicone type out of your shed as it really stuffs up otehr finishes.