Close call

[shanesmith80]

Well closeish.

So I was setting up a stop block on my table saw sled. I had the tape measure just under the tooth of the blade at the measurement needed( about 450mm) holding the tape measure down with my thumb about a cm or so from the blade. I leaned to the left to clamp the stop block at the end of the tape measure. In doing so I seemed to have bump the big red flappy stop thing with my hip knocking it off. Somehow though in doing so it has hit the green button and started the table saw. Not only did it take a bite out of my favourite tape measure it managed to scare the s*^t out of me. When it started my finger was less than an inch away. The blade was not very high but I don't know if it was luck or skill that whipped my hand away from the blade without even a scratch.

Now I have been considering a new tablesaw for a while and a Saw Stop has been on the list. Not just for the safety feature but I believe it is a goood saw. Now obviously this incident would have cost me a new cartridge and blade on top of the already soiled pants, but has certainly got me thinking.

Some may say that it should be turned off at the power and unplugged before anything like this, and if you do you are far more disciplined than me. But I'll think that most people will happily set up a stop with a tape measure and ruler without even considering unplugging, am I wrong?

I have absolutely no idea how it happened and even tried to replicate the scenario since, minus the tape measure and finger of course. But can't get it to happen.

How many lucky chances do I get.

Cheers
Shane

[Kuffy]

I religiously isolate power to a machine before touching a blade or cutter. Whether it be a saw, buzzer, spindle moulder, router, whatever, I always isolate the power. I find myself day dreaming, not really concentrating on what I am doing most of the time, and after years of doing this stuff, it has become a pretty natural movement to turn a machine on. There have been numerous occasions that I have been setting an exact height of my sawblade by resting a workpiece up against the blade while I raise or lower the height. Instead of reaching down to wind the adjustment wheel, every now and then I reach down and repeatedly press the on button only to get frustrated that the bloody thing won't turn on. And then I realise I'm not trying to turn it on at the moment....luckily the machines are always isolated. I only isolate if I need actually to touch the blade, so it's not that much of a hassle really.

[BobL]

I leaned to the left to clamp the stop block at the end of the tape measure. In doing so I seemed to have bump the big red flappy stop thing with my hip knocking it off. Somehow though in doing so it has hit the green button and started the table saw.

Rather than running out an buying a new saw I'd be investigating why this happened.
Maybe the switch needs to be repositioned?
Maybe you need a different switch?
Photo of your actual switch might provide some clues.

But otherwise Kuffy is right on - it would not have happened if the switch at the GPO had been turned off.

[Mobyturns]

Isolating the machine totally is highly recommended when changing blades, or doing any task that places any of your appendages in close proximity to the blade.

I'm with Kuffy - I isolate the machine to the extent that I unplug the power cord and place the plug in full view. Easy task for single phase machines, but a bit of a PIA for 3 phase machines. Still its far better than having lost time and expenses due to an "unplanned start" that takes off some fingers.

[NCArcher]

I always unplug when changing blades but when adjusting the fence.....
I've found that if you have keys or a phone in your pocket, when you brush against the switch, that is enough to depress the start button.
Is your saw plugged into one of the suspended outlets Shane? A timely warning. Flick the switch off.

[Wongo]

Bloody hell that's enough to give anyone a heart attack.

I have a shopmade safety switch like this one
Homemade safety switch | Build n' Cook With Tom

The green button is so far behind the timber board so there is absolutely no chance for a surprise.

[vekenone]

Ouch !! Really makes you think twice doesn't it. My setup is about the same as yours Shane. But "it couldn't happen to me - could it ?" Perhaps I will have another look at it.

[shanesmith80]

Isolating the machine totally is highly recommended when changing blades, or doing any task that places any of your appendages in close proximity to the blade.

I religiously isolate power to a machine before touching a blade or cutter. .

Like i said turning the saw off would have been the best thing to do. And for changing blades or riving knife I certainly do. But for using a ruler or tape measure to set the fence or stop block it's never even crossed my mind. Now I may be wrong but do people actually isolate the power for this? Considering the switch is a suspended outlet sitting right there maybe I will for now on.

[shanesmith80]

Bloody hell that's enough to give anyone a heart attack.

I have a shopmade safety switch like this one
Homemade safety switch | Build n' Cook With Tom

The green button is so far behind the timber board so there is absolutely no chance for a surprise.

Thats a cool little idea, might have to look into that.

I always unplug when changing blades but when adjusting the fence.....
I've found that if you have keys or a phone in your pocket, when you brush against the switch, that is enough to depress the start button.
Is your saw plugged into one of the suspended outlets Shane? A timely warning. Flick the switch off.

It is the suspended outlet and I may just do that from now on.

Rather than running out an buying a new saw I'd be investigating why this happened.
Maybe the switch needs to be repositioned?
Maybe you need a different switch?
Photo of your actual switch might provide some clues.

But otherwise Kuffy is right on - it would not have happened if the switch at the GPO had been turned off.

Ive been considering a new saw anyway, but in saying that I'm not going to rush out just because of this.
I think it was just an unlucky fluke as when trying to get it to happen I couldn't. The switch setup wongo linked to could be a good idea.

[Chief Tiff]

On a similar theme, every power tool I own that needs a tool to remove blades etc I cable tie the tool to the cable right by the plug. This means that in order to change the blade or bit I have no choice but to unplug it because that’s where the tool is. For that reason alone I bemoan the introduction of keyless chucks on corded drills! As an added bonus I never have to go hunting for the peg spanner or whatever is needed because it is effectively permanently attached to the plug.

I agree with Bobl in that the cause of the incident should be investigated thoroughly, perhaps get a second person to try and replicate it if you can’t. The flappy paddle type off-switch is almost impossible to bypass but you seem to have managed it somehow. Is it possible that the rocker switch underneath the paddle was only half off and the bump knocked it back on again? That could have been caused by being too gentle when switching the saw off instead of positively pushing the paddle and feeling it “click” off.

Perhaps consider replacing it with a No Volt Release (NVR) switch?

[warrick]

You need something like this

Rick

KJD17B-Electromagnetic-Switch-Paddle-ON-OFF-Safety-Switch-220V-16A-For-Table-Saws-Router-Tables-.jpg

[Mobyturns]

Like i said turning the saw off would have been the best thing to do. And for changing blades or riving knife I certainly do. But for using a ruler or tape measure to set the fence or stop block it's never even crossed my mind. Now I may be wrong but do people actually isolate the power for this? Considering the switch is a suspended outlet sitting right there maybe I will for now on.

No I don't isolate the machine every time to set the fence as I use the measure on the fence and a scrap block to then test the cut width. Same for using the mitre fence, always have on hand some scrap pine (dunnage etc) to test cut angles etc. I have worked out the "zero error" correction for each kerf width blade that I use on the saw and apply as required.

If I have a need to directly measure the distance between the tips of the blade to fence or depth for a dado cut I do isolate the power.

[shanesmith80]

You need something like this

Rick

KJD17B-Electromagnetic-Switch-Paddle-ON-OFF-Safety-Switch-220V-16A-For-Table-Saws-Router-Tables-.jpg

This is exactly what is on the saw. All I can think off is that when I knocked the red flap off one of the pins it hinges on somehow hit the on button.

[BobL]

These types of switches are better - the ON button is completely covered and the cover has to be positively lifted to switch on.

Screen Shot 2018-08-29 at 7.02.17 pm.png

[warrick]

These types of switches are better - the ON button is completely covered and the cover has to be positively lifted to switch on.

Screen Shot 2018-08-29 at 7.02.17 pm.png

That looks like a better solution Bob, I have those on my sander and DC. On the table saw It came with something similar to this which has never been a problem.



Rick

MS1-BCT-01-2.jpg