how would you finish that....

the top is made is NSW scented rosewood, the door/side rails and stiles are made from camphor laurel, the door/side panels and drawers are red carribeen (sorry don't know the spelling). Finally the front rail (under the doors) and the transversal board joining the 2 sides are made from yellow caribbeen.
This is my first big project and thsi cabinet is intended to go in the lounge room
I would like to know how you would finish it.
I will not stain it because I want to keep the natural colours and patterns but I want to protect it.
The top might have a vase on it so it should be a bit water proof in case somebody spills water
otherwise its main usage will be storing plates, glasses, etc...
Thanks for your help

Eric

ps: since I am also new to proper finishing, I don't want something too complicated to apply or something that needs lots of experience

Penetrol Wood Oil is my favourite, takes a few days to get the required number of coats but it's just a wipe on, let soak in a bit then wipe off technique that's pretty easy. If you can't find penetrol then I think Danish oil is similar but I haven't used any.

I agree with Dan. 5 to 6 coats of Danish oil will do. BTW it looks awesome Eric. Nice work. :)

is danish oil water resistant ? or at least a bit ?
even if I have read many times about danish oil, what is it exactly ?is it oil/resin based, pure oil, etc.. ?

As mentioned previously, I want something a bit water resistant for the top
Thanks

something else I forgot to mention
The top, even if it is very smooth, is slightly uneven
By uneven I mean: if you rub your hand on the surface, you can feel some slight ups and downs.
There are not a lot but I have just read an article about oil finishes and although they seem to produce great result they might highlight these "ups" and "downs" in the wood and I would not want that to spoil the surface.

The top, and the rest, was sanded with a 100, 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit paper with a random orbital sander
The result is very smooth but there are these defects here and there

I agree with the others - Danish oil. I use Rustin's and I love the stuff. I did my rosewood, myrtle & huon pine side table in it and it came up really nicely. www.woodsmith.com.au

I think it would be worth doing a bit more work on the top by the sound of it. Once any sort of finish goes on any problems with the surface will be highlighted and you'll kick yourself later on for not fixing them when you first noticed them (been there done that and still do it occasionally).
Here's the link for info on Penetrol
http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...ol_woodoil.htm

One more thing, nice work ;) and I reckon it will look brilliant once the finish is on. :)

There's an article on finishing fine pieces coming out in the next Triton Woodworkers newsletter. Very detailed and well worth a read. It will be out in the next few days.

Hi All,

Thanks
I bought some organoil danish oil and applied it yesterday.
First how many coats do you apply ?
On the can it is printed 2 coats only with 24h drying time between coats.
However I read in a book (I think it is Neil's book on finishing) that danish oil and penetrating oils require 4 coats or more to give the best of the furniture.

Second, it was the first time I was applying danish oil and found it very easy to apply especially with a lambswool applicator.
However, it seems to me that it is not really water proof
Maybe if I apply 4-5 coats it will be.
I don't want to be 100% water proof or resistant but a vase might go on the top and I am just concerned about any spillage.


Once I have applied 2 or more coats, do I need to apply something else on top of it either to make it more water resistant or shinier ?

Once again the can recommends the use of wax to give the furniture a shinier aspect.

I am quite happy with the result of the danish oil my only concern is the water resistant quality.

Have you guys applied something else on top of danish oil ?

Sorry for all the questions
Eric

I use about 2-3 coats on most things but for something like a table top 6 or more gets a bit more gloss. I don't use wax. It might not look like it but once the oil has dried the surface should be water resistant (the oil soaks in then dries rather than sitting on top like a varnish). Six coats might sound like a lot of work but as you are probably discovering oiling is quick and doesn't require too much skill, just a bit of elbow grease.
Here's a hint, when you are applying the second or third coat on the top, put a bit extra oil on then sand with a block and some 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper and keep the surface wet, once you've sanded all over wipe off as normal. On second thought it might be best to try a test piece first, it works well with penetrol I'm just not sure if you'll get the same result with the organoil (should do though).

Eric,

Slightly off topic. If you want a strong finish, good water resistance and heat resistance then (like it or not) polyurethane is still the best option.

I usually use oil and wax finish on light duty furniture like picture frames, mirror, blanket boxes etc. Things that you don’t touch a lot. Whereas for tables, chairs, coffee tables I will definitely use PolyU.

:)

Wongo's right...see the article on rubbed PolyU in the latest Fine Woodworking.

Danish Oil, I use Cabots. I've used it on a coffee table - that was around 3 years ago and it still looks great and does get a lot of hard use and the occasional accident of course. Its easy to just wipe, or brush on another coat. Using Tasmanian Oak for most of my projects at this stage I generally start with a coat of light oak stain by the same people. Very easy to apply these days. No streaking problems as was common with stains decades ago.

Keep at it. Cheers from John in Brisbane.

Hi all,

following all your nice recommendations, I used danish oil to finish the cabinet whose picture is shown earlier in this post.
It has been 3-4 weeks now and - still following your recommendations or what I have found on the internet - it is time to wax it.
first I wanted to wax it but then the other day, I was grabbing a DVD from one of the shelves which is just above the cabinet.
The DVD fell on the top and slightly marked it. As you all know, a DVD case - a standard one - is pretty light and it still damaged the top
The top is NSW scented rosewood.
so now I am thinking that instead of waxing it, maybe I should apply something else to avoid this type of problem in the future.

what could I use ? I want a clear finish of course that can be applied on top of danish oil and that will look good
I don't think the waxing will prevent this type of damage from happening.
Unless I have been mistaken regarding the strength of the wax

thanks for your answer
Eric

Hi all,

following all your nice recommendations, I used danish oil to finish the cabinet whose picture is shown earlier in this post.
It has been 3-4 weeks now and - still following your recommendations or what I have found on the internet - it is time to wax it.
first I wanted to wax it but then the other day, I was grabbing a DVD from one of the shelves which is just above the cabinet.
The DVD fell on the top and slightly marked it. As you all know, a DVD case - a standard one - is pretty light and it still damaged the top
The top is NSW scented rosewood.
so now I am thinking that instead of waxing it, maybe I should apply something else to avoid this type of problem in the future.

what could I use ? I want a clear finish of course that can be applied on top of danish oil and that will look good
I don't think the waxing will prevent this type of damage from happening.
Unless I have been mistaken regarding the strength of the wax

thanks for your answer
Eric

G'day Eric. I'd tend to stick with the oil finish. Another coat in a fortnight, a month and a year. I am going away from polyurethane and use either Tung Oil (from which Danish is blended) or spray on Nitro C. I have found the Oil finish gets well...more durable over time not necassarily harder, but does a good job of protecting the timber. I have Jarrah window ledges finished in oil and they really take some abuse from rain (windows get left open) and some indirect sunlight. I just re-coat once a year. (I wouldn't recommend for north or west facing windows)

The tips about burnishing the oil in with a ROS or sanding is something that I haven't tried yet but this may well be worth testing on a scrap. I have reservations about putting other finishes over the top of oil but thats out of my experience league. An oil finish is not really a No Maintenance finish but thats the beauty of it. If it gets damaged its repairable and can be freshened up from time to time.

In the end it becomes a matter of personal preference and experience.

Good Luck. Its looks terrific.

Regards