what would you seal kwila with to accept a water based stain ?

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27th March 2009, 10:39 PM
JDarvall

what would you seal kwila with to accept a water based stain ?

shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?

thanks

Jake
27th March 2009, 10:52 PM
tea lady

:hmm: I thought you wet it down evenly with water so that it will stain evenly. Unless its end grain then maybe use sanding sealer. (Not that I'm an expert. Just read books and mags. :shrug: I have only used water based stain on small things and not even Kwilla. )
27th March 2009, 10:57 PM
Cruzi

????

Why stain kwila, it is a light golden brown colour when first cut and sanded but it turns a very dark brown in just a few months:?
27th March 2009, 11:00 PM
chippy 71

Quote:

Originally Posted by apricotripper

shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?

thanks

Jake

This may sound a silly question but, considering the colour and grain of Kwila, why would you stain it?
I would have thought a clear finish would would look the best!

Colin.
27th March 2009, 11:08 PM
Honorary Bloke

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.
27th March 2009, 11:17 PM
tea lady

Quote:

Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know. Having read ubeauts instructions he says to dilute white shellac with metho to make sanding sealer.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.

Kwill/Murbu bleeds black everywhere doesn't it. So I guess sealing is kinda a good idea.
27th March 2009, 11:38 PM
chippy 71

Quote:

Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Jake,

I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.

Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.

The original question was, "What would you seal Kwila with to accept a water based stain?"
I was not querying the sealing of the Kwila, I was asking why, considering the colour and grain, would you stain it?

Colin.
28th March 2009, 05:48 AM
JDarvall

sorry , I probably should describe it better.

I'm making a couple of windsor chairs. Different timbers for different parts of the chair. And the legs happen to be kwila this time around, because its hardwood and I got offcuts of it that fit the length right.. But both chairs will be painted with black milk paint.

I made a small stool earlier using kwila. And I noticed the paint didn't take too it. It did in places, but others it seemed like it didn't want to stick. So thats why I'm concerned, since its being an oily sort of timber.

I know it sounds odd painting a chair, but I think it look a lot worse if I left it natural with a pine seat and kwila legs. mismatched timbers look a bit odd for me, and its traditional to paint them anyway.

sounds like a should just try shellac. thanks.
28th March 2009, 08:15 AM
Harry72

Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.

If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.
28th March 2009, 08:32 AM
JDarvall

thanks Harry.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry72

Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.

yep. thats whats happened with the stool I think.

Quote:

If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.

what kind of de-waxer would you recommend? I really should work on my finishing skills.
28th March 2009, 09:45 AM
Cruzi

Acetone also works to remove oily residue on timbers, you can buy Septone de-waxer at Super Cheap Auto.
28th March 2009, 09:19 PM
JDarvall

Ta Cruzi. I've got some acetone. will give that a go.
1st April 2009, 08:45 PM
Harry72

Any good yet?
2nd April 2009, 07:55 AM
JDarvall

haven't done it yet. today sometime.
2nd April 2009, 10:48 AM
Bleedin Thumb

Jake, the Flood companies SpaNDeck system does that. Use the power lift and then the dekswood cleaner.

That will get rid of the oils and tannins enough to get an even stain.
2nd April 2009, 04:52 PM
Skew ChiDAMN!!

Just wondering... why use a water-based stain? 'Cos that's what you got?

For an oily wood, wouldn't a spirit-based stain be better? Should still wipe the job down with thinners/acetone first, though.

(You can still buy them, can't you? FWIW, I don't mean these 'orrible stain/ finsh combos that seem to be popular now... just a plain ol' spirits-based stain.)
2nd April 2009, 07:46 PM
JDarvall

thanks BT.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Just wondering... why use a water-based stain? 'Cos that's what you got?

its just milk paint. I'm doing the whole traditional windsor chair thing. just mix milk , lime and black pigment. Found it look good rubbed back on red timbers with steel wool.

I'm a real finishing idiot really skew. struggle with all the names.

basically I made a kwila stool and I noticed it didn't take to it very well. particularily noticed when I rubbed back with the steel wool. came off too quick, unlike over other timbers.
2nd April 2009, 11:57 PM
Skew ChiDAMN!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by apricotripper

its just milk paint. I'm doing the whole traditional windsor chair thing. just mix milk , lime and black pigment. Found it look good rubbed back on red timbers with steel wool.

I'm a real finishing idiot really skew. struggle with all the names.

basically I made a kwila stool and I noticed it didn't take to it very well. particularily noticed when I rubbed back with the steel wool. came off too quick, unlike over other timbers.

Ahhh... that makes sense. I hope the acetone works for you! :fingerscrossed: