Questions, questions

For the last four weeks, i have been locked away in the shed renewing our furnuture collection (On hols, partner not, the best kind of holiday! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) ). Several tables, stands, jewellery boxes and a fish tank stand etc. Now comes the big part, finishing. All projects have been sanded down to 240 grit, I have now discovered this item to be wiped on prior to sanding (Unsure of the name) and grain filler. Are these products worth using? I intend to use estapol on the tables and stands, wax on the boxes. Should I dilute the esapol? And if the answer is yes, how many coats? I would normally apply three coats with a light sand between each coat.

Thanks
Fed :)

Do you mean sanding sealer ??

Look it up on the ubeaut site. By the way..........240?......keep sanding.

Sander sealer, that's the stuff. Is it worth using? What about grain filler, timber used was spruce, pine and various hardwoods? Should I use this and start sanding again? What grit do I sand down to?
Thanks
Fed :confused:

I use dilute shellac for sanding sealer, and I sand down to 1200 prior to sealer.
Then sand again after sealer.

Al. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by [email protected].

Sander sealer, that's the stuff. Is it worth using? What about grain filler, timber used was spruce, pine and various hardwoods? Should I use this and start sanding again? What grit do I sand down to?
Thanks
Fed :confused:

---

Check out the info on the Ubeaut site about their sanding sealer but yes, sand as fine as you can. At the very least 400 with an electric sander (Random Orbital preferably) which gives the equivalent of finer grades done by hand. I stopped at 800. I used 1200 on my table just before a go with some Trad Wax. It all depends on the finish you want. The polisher's handbook we all keep mentioning has it all but I'm sure you'll find some on the internet too.

So, back to Bunnings to buy sander sealer. What about grain filler? Again, is it worth applying this and sand over again?
Many thanks for ye assistance.

Hi Fed,

I normaly thin the first the cost by 50% as sander sealer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by [email protected].

Should I dilute the esapol?

---

Some people will find polyurethane too thick and too hard too brush on. I usually thin it by 10% from the second cost but not the last cost.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by [email protected].

And if the answer is yes, how many coats?

---

4 to 5 costs should be enough. Should sand between each cost.

I hope it helps :)

Wongo,

I diluted the poly to about 30-40% and renished the table. To my surprise, after I gave is a ligh sand between coats, the second coat had none of those bleeding frustrating nabs(?). I used gave the table two more coats with the same and whilst not as smooth as a baby's bum, it's pretty damn close. Why do you not dilute the final coat? is this a looks perspective or does it need to be 100% pure to protect the finish? :confused:
Thanks
Fed

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gumby

Check out the info on the Ubeaut site about their sanding sealer but yes, sand as fine as you can. At the very least 400 with an electric sander (Random Orbital preferably) which gives the equivalent of finer grades done by hand. I stopped at 800. I used 1200 on my table just before a go with some Trad Wax. It all depends on the finish you want. The polisher's handbook we all keep mentioning has it all but I'm sure you'll find some on the internet too.

---

I totally agree with Gumby. Also the Polisher's Handbook is definitely worth buying. Not only is it a wealth of information, but you also get to help the people out that provide this fantastic BB :)


Craig

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by [email protected].

Why do you not dilute the final coat? is this a looks perspective or does it need to be 100% pure to protect the finish? :confused:
Thanks
Fed

---

Hmm not very sure mate. It does not make any difference really. It is just the way I do it. Sorry mate. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ozwinner

I use dilute shellac for sanding sealer, and I sand down to 1200 prior to sealer.
Then sand again after sealer.

Al. :)

---

I have found, after dome advice form DPB, that the only way to apply shellac on a table like surface is to have it thinned down. I couldn't get a decent finish otherwise. I diluted to 50% and used a pad to apply it. MUCH better than undiluted and brushed on. You just have to be a bit patient and apply more coats but the end result is supurb. Last coat was sanded with 1200 and given a buff with Trad wax and the swansdown mop........BEEEUUATIFUL!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gumby

I have found, after dome advice form DPB, that the only

---

Ooops ! at typo.....dome = some

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gumby

Ooops ! at typo.....dome = some

---

Bloody hell......another one.

at = a

why don't I read these before I post ?????????

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gumby

Bloody hell......another one.

at = a

why don't I read these before I post ?????????

---

Why don't you hit the Edit button and change the original message, then nobody knows you made a mistake.
:D :D :D :D

You gota dilute poly If you want any sort of respectable result.

sanding past 240 or 320 prior to finishing with poly is probably a waste.

& 320 between coats I recon would be ok. must sand well between coats or you will have adhesion problems.

afterall poly is jam.

the matching sanding sealer I've found to work well with poly. If you are using estipol ask for "estipol sanding sealer"

as for grain filling. If the wood is at all pourous this can save you a lot of work later in the finish.
I've found the water bassed wood stop putties diluted to a slurry & rubbed in by hand then sanded to work very well. If you want to lift the grain contrast no end use a darker grain filler than the wood.

cheers

Thanks soundman, I think I will have to re finish my projects next week.
Gary