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Hello all,
I'm hoping to make a low line TV cabinet for our new TV. I'm tossing up between MDF and Pine.... Was wondering if I used MDF (which I more than likely will) what steps and products would I take to achieve a shiny smooth finish?
Thanks
Geoff
Depends on the equipment you have available. The basic ingredients for a high gloss finish are sanding, sanding, sanding, more sanding, and... a bit more sanding after that.
In approximate order of equipment requirements (not including experience in using them):
Option 1) Spray with 2 pac polyurethane (undercoat/topcoat) in an enclosed, dust free spray booth while wearing supplied air respirator.
Option 2) Spray with acrylic lacquer while wearing respirator, de nib topcoat and buff to final finish.
Option 3) Spray with paint from spray can. Spend time sanding to 1200 grit and polish when paint hardens
Or for a clear finish - as above but omit the undercoat and use a clear topcoat, or
Option 4) Apply several coats of Minwax Rub-on Polyurethane, polish with U-Beaut ultra shine till nice and shiny.
If you want to have an opaque paint finish, use MDF; pine is just too soft IMO to take a paint finish subject to heavy things being put on it.
Eeeekkkkkkkkkkk I wouldnt go near MDF for A furniture Piece like this But if U must I'm sure this ones been covered a few times already.
Personally i'd dress all exposed sides; Use a good Primer (If coloring) N spray it it on.............
If wanting that stunning MDF look I've had great success with an undercoat of Ubeauts white shellac N some minwax wipe on poly over the top
Go the pine.................... :oo:
Regards Lou :2tsup:
I'm happy to admit I enjoy working pine, but not the crap bits you get from you know where :) Easy to work and to finish too.Quote:
Originally Posted by garfield
I cant bring myself to make something out of MDF and clear coat it. To me it just looks like glorified cardboard :C It has to be painted. The only other time I might use MDF is as a substrate for a veneer overlay.
I have made fish tank cupboards, kids furniture and stands for TV's and hi fi equipment with MDF.
The procedure is to sand as smooth as possible, especially the edges.
Next is spray several coats or good build of undercoat followed by wet/dry sanding with 400 grit. This also acts as a filler. (some use a filler and sanding before undercoating)
When dry, spray on the final coats of the final colour. I usually use a satin finish.
I usually use normal oil based enamel sealer undercoat and topcoat which can be tinted to whatever colour you want. The problem of course is dust/bugs getting in it while drying. The alternative is rapid dry enamel or lacquer which I have also used.
When given enough time to dry properly it becomes very hard and durable. (eg the fish tank cupboard was 12 years old when I gave it to a friend who has a pet shop and the finish was still in excellent condition with no water damage)
As far as holding it all together, I use either housing joints, or blocked joints. (with a block of wood or a mdf support to reinforce the joint especially for heavy items) If joining into the edges, I always glue and screw and it is essential to drill pilot holes into the mdf to avoid spliting. The screw heads are countersunk and filled with automotive type filler.
Another joining alternative is to use dowel bolts.
The only picture I have to help you is of a todler's table that was sprayed with oil based household paint and held together by dowel bolts.
Like the others say... I like the pine. Stain it and varnish it and it looks good!
Chipman
Thanks for the tips guys, I too quite like pine but wanted something different in the house as I have so much stained furniture and wood flooring, so I thought because I was going to paint it rather than stain it that I'd use some - say 30mm MDF and try to achieve a nice shiny painted surface as it may be the cheaper option....
Geoff
Well if you are going to paint it, then MDF is probably the better option!Quote:
Originally Posted by garfield
FWIW I have had good success staining pine in a dark mahogany before. The stain I used (cant remember brand sorry) gave a really nice deep red finish that made the pine look like much more expensive timber :) But of course it gives you a dark red finish, which is probably not what you want.
Go MDF. At least it will be more stable. Don't forget the dust masks when cutting that poison up though :p
In my opinion the best finish for MDF is a match.:D
Liberally coat MDF with petrol, diesel or any other flammable liquid, stand well back, strike match and throw at MDF. Should finish it of nicely.:D:D
Having said that, I have found some other uses for it, and I finished it with paint.
Hey Garfield,
While most of us class ourselves as woodworkers and not "cardboard" workers, MDF can be used to make some good stuff, especially if you are after a smooth coloured finish. Actually, MDF will give a better finish than wood if that is what you want and it will be a lot more stable.
Just remember to protect yourself well from all the dust as there will be plenty of it and it is toxic (you should protect yourself from wood dust anyway).
Good luck with it all and don't forget to post the pics when you are finished!
Chipman:U:U:U
Is that MDF dust really that poison??? I've actually cut it up a few times before in the shed and actually saw the dust just smother the room and sat there and just breathed it in.
No fibrous dust is good for you - all wood dust is bad. Mdf is a bit worse than most because you make more dust shaping it compared to other wood (even a plane makes dust instead of curlies) and the glues used in it make really nasty sharp dust particles.
That said, I understand that as far as we know now, problems with wood dust including mdf are dose-related - so occasional exposure is unlikely to be bad, but daily exposure is a real risk. Then again, that's what the doctors said about asbestos before the 1960s, so it is wiser to take precautions - use a dust mask or respirator, use your dust extractors and clean up the mess.
As far as finish is concerned - sprayed acrylic lacquer rubbed down has worked really well for me.
Yeah I should get me one of them Triton respirator set ups....
Don't listen to Geoff , obviously has rocks in his head. Diesel doesn't work flame up that well. I'd try aviation fuel for that nice instant warm feeling:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Geoff Dean
Ciao,
M.
....Yep just ignore me it helps:)
MDF can't be that bad..... Chip board perhaps? :)
Garfield,
If you want a painted finish, stick with MDF. It is hard to get a good surface with chipboard. It can be done.... but requires more work, especially if you are going to fill the edges. (Alternative nail/glue on a edging strip) Atleast MDF can be routed to shape on the edges. While chipboard may make less dust, it is still an issue. If I had a choice between MDF and Chipboard for what you are doing, I would choose MDF.
Have you considered using melamine with an iron on edge? If you go this way, use melamine on chipboard.
Have you considered using Plywood (a more expensive option and better for a varnished finish)
Chipman:)
Thanks Chipman.... I was only joking with the chipboard comment :UQuote:
Originally Posted by Chipman
But with what you say about MDF is why I thought of using it in the first place as I thought I could rout it and shape it as that is what I would do if I decide to get something other than pine.
I would go the Lacquer option, its fast drying so you can spray on the next coat and build it up. You could have it sprayed and finished in a day instead of 3 days. Of coarse with any finish, best to leave it about a week to achieve full cure before putting anything heavy on it.
Good luck with your project.
Kordes do you mean lacquer as in I should do it in pine?Quote:
Originally Posted by KorDes
You can use a clear finish lacquer if you were to do it in pine or you can choose a color of your choice if you do it in MDF. If you do it in MDF, use the appropriate sealer. This is specially important on the ends of MDF as its very porous. But Lacquer can only be sprayed, so unless you have spraying equipment, you might have to resort to spray cans or use a brush on polyu type finish.
Im only just starting to use lacquer as I found that Polyu takes to long to finish. I got pretty much all the information from my local paint tradeshop. Im no expert, just passing on the information I learnt from the dealer. I use Mirotone products, this is a link to the aus website. Theres several dealers in NSW, would best to contact them if you decide the lacquer route.
http://www.mirotone.com/Australia-Home/default.aspx
Quote:
Originally Posted by KorDes
anks Kordes