Shed internal extras

As some background...
I've settled on a pre-fab 10.8m x 6m colorbond shed (2.7m roof). This gives me 3 x (3.6 x 6m) bays which I will use one of the 3.6 x 6m bays as a hobby room (housing the train set, TV and beer fridge..:D) and the remaining 7.2 x 6m as a workshop.

I'm getting Air Cell installed in the roof and all the sealing options for walls and roof to keep dust/moisture out (I hope).

I'll line and insulate the walls with gyprock and batts.

I'd appreciate your advice and experience on how I should setup internal power and lighting. It would be good to give the sparky a starting point.
My thinking at the moment is to have
- the shed power isolated/keyed/locked somehow so that the kids can't accidently use the tools.
- should I get 3 phase power installed?
- many power points (more than I need) - most positioned above bench height
- overhead lighting for the workshop (not sure what type - fluro's help...:?)
- guessing I might as well get a phone, data and tv coax cable run as well at the same time
- anything else?

Running water and sink and/or laundry trough.

Thanks, I had forgotten about that.:2tsup: I have a poly water pipe close by that I can splice and might be worthwhile running a pipe to the hobby room as well for a future air con as well. Is it worthwhile getting this plumbed into the slab of just run in through the wall after the shed is put up. It would be in a place no-one would see.

G'Day Ashes1,
Where abouts are you?

I'd go 3 Phase if you have it,
even run the 2 extra Wires if in Conduit for later.

I'm soon to do the Drain [Sewerage] for my Shed.

In the same W I D E trench will also be;
1 Conduit for Power
2 Town Water to the Shed
3 Tank water to the House
4 Phone conduit

5 I'm in Two minds if to run Hot water from the house to the shed.

I'd much prefer to NOT have to go back and run something at a later date.

I also like my Power Points at 1100mm or so
and Light Switches at about 1350

Big Shed said "sink and/or laundry trough".
I'm now thinking an Outside Sink, an old Kitchen Stainless Sink, one or the like.

Located in Melbourne. Profile now updated:)

I am assuming that your shed will be clear span, but I built an nice big American Barn two years ago 12 x 16 x 4.3 side walls/5.5 centrewalls/ 6.5 ridgeline. This will have mezzanines both sides (one for storage and one for office + lounge/hobby room/computer room + small recording/production area, and 3m high workshops accross the back centre bay and one side bay. (One side section is drive through for rear yard access)

Power plan as evolving is

3 phase to shed with dist to car hoist (10), woodwork and metalwork shops (3x 10 A ea), air comp(20 A), and centre roller door (10A)

Ground floor zoned into 3 areas with individual boards containing RCD's and breakers. Centre section 3x 400W Highbay lights hanging at 5.5m, outer sections 1 x quad 18W flouro troffer style light per bay, flush in ceiling (switched for single light (x2) and double light so that lighting can be controlled for current use. 1 10A double GPO plus 1 15A single gpo on casings arround each upright in the open areas, plus 2x 15A and 4 x 10A double GPO in each workshop. All light switches plus oiled and dry air outlets will also be on these casings.

Upstairs area also be zoned into office, lounge, hobby and computer, recording areas. Both areas to have lots of outlets to cater for loads of low power connections (mostly under 100W per outlet, many under 20 W). Lighting to flush in ceiling but type to be decided.

Power setup is complex but I figure it is needed as I don't want to to have computers shutting down because a portable tool somewhere in the building has tripped an RCD.

Facilities planned include phone extension and comprehensive computer network cabling, AV cabling, hot and cold water (25000l tank and pump at rear) kitchen sink for washup, hot/cold water cooler with built in 20 L fridge, microwave, Laundry trough and drainer for parts washing and dirty stuff, washing machine for yard/ greasy clothes.

Metal shop to include lathe, mill, possibly a shaper, pedistal drill, metal saw, and Mig. Wood shop to include table saw, jointer, RA saw, Thicknesser, Dust ext, benching, fair collection of portable gear etc.

Hope this might give you some ideas. Definitely worth considering zoning workshop from rec area electrics and seperate RCD's in my view.

I put in a 100mm conduit (storm water pipe) and left a draw cable in it. If I need anything else in there I just drag it through. I have added TV computer network cables and added more power circuits since the original installation. Never under estimate future needs, home computers were not even around when I did mine.

Extra pipe for cables sounds like a cheap, easy option when I did the trench along with running some water pipe as well.

Hopefully I'll get some trees removed this week, permits underway and get moving on this.

cheers.

Where is a good place to buy air-cell insulation in NSW or ACT?

Trees removed and others lopped. :D

A pretty demanding/physical job that one!! Definately don't envy the job those guys do. The guy losing his grip at about 15m high when a big limb was cut off and swinging upside down attached by his safety rope certainly earnt his $'s for the day. Certainly not a job for the DIY bloke at that size!:oo:

The trees ranged in height from 20-30m. Removed 2, lopped 5 to a low height.

Waiting on the owner/builder certificate now:2tsup:

I'd pay attention to the plumbing. Such finely appointed shed could surely have a corner for a dunny, and a drain for a sink (washing paint brushes etc, pooring dodgy homebrew down).

With water and plumbing, if you don't do it in slab you'll have pipes galore running out the sides of your shed, and it will look pox. rough in the connections to the water/sewer now and will be heaps easier, you can get the points hooked up to the sewer before you even do the slab.

Consider the slope of the slab and put a drain in the middle if needed in case you spill a tin if something messy, and a drain below the sink in case it overflows. Talk to a plumber for some other (better) ideas too

As for power, yes talk to your sparky, you'll probably just need one fairly big entry point for the cables (conduit rising through slab) rising straight to the shed switchboard. Since you are lining the walls there isn't much need for any other in slab conduits as you can run all pp's and lights behind the gyprock. Just plan where it would make sense to located the switchboard (near the door obviously, so you can reset CB's/RCD's in the dark without tripping over in the shed). Get a sparky to advise early on.

Hopefully the drawing attaches OK. It's in a word document as I was having trouble scaling down a jpeg or gif and maintaining enough detail.

I'd appreciate a constructive critique of my shed plans. The externals such as shed size, height, window and door positions are set. Any of the internals can change. Please forgive the use of non standard symbols. Hopefully it makes sense anyway.

I'm planning on placing a flat ceiling in the hobby room and storage room and using the void above that for storing long timber lengths and other odds and ends. I will keep the full gable height in the workshop.

That looks very professional, a lot of thought has gone in to that.:2tsup:

Great job.

About the only thing I would suggest in addition to what you have, and I'm sure you can always think of more to add, is in-floor power point(s)
.
In hindsight I would have had 2 or more in/on floor power points in my shed for reasonably fixed big machines, such as the tablesaw, it does away with either leads lying on the floor or suspended from the ceiling.

In floor power is a great idea:doh: I can see the tablesaw/triton regularly in the middle of the floor and the workbench as well. Would be great for handtools if the cord's wern't running across the floor. I'll add that to my wishlist design.

Big Shed, how can you have in floor power points, Is it possible? I would have thought they would constitute a trip hazard and get full of dirt etc. My power points are overhead for machinary except for the 3 phase. BTW Your discs are done.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mini

Big Shed, how can you have in floor power points, Is it possible? I would have thought they would constitute a trip hazard and get full of dirt etc. My power points are overhead for machinary except for the 3 phase. BTW Your discs are done.

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Floor boxes generally have a closable lid with a slit for the cables to protude out, finishing flush with the floor level. Classrooms/multiuse rooms in office spaces generally use them for power/data/voice etc etc. No reason why they could not be installed in a shed- Only issue would be if you decided to hose your shed floor.

The option of some hanging power cords from the roof to a couple of spots is probably a cheaper, safer and just as convenient. Also a lot less hastle to install. The floor boxes would probably attract a fair bit of sawdust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mini

Big Shed, how can you have in floor power points, Is it possible? I would have thought they would constitute a trip hazard and get full of dirt etc. My power points are overhead for machinary except for the 3 phase. BTW Your discs are done.

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Yes, I have some o/head cords suspended on chains as well. Half the time they get in the way of what you are doing. If I ever do a shed from scratch again I have promised myself some in/on floor power points right next to major machinery like the tablesaw. There floor mountable boxes for power points available and they can be placed just under the wing of your tablesaw for instance. As your cord is always plugged in I can't see a dust problem, and because it sits under the wing, I can't see how you can trip over it?

Thanks for doing the disks, have sent yours off too.:2tsup:

Concrete being poured as I type:2tsup:

Have taken the easy option and will run power up into the shed around the slab as it will be in a position where it won't be seen.

Shed erected and I've started putting battens in for the internal cladding and insulation.

Waiting on a sparky quote now..waiting...

The main workshop will be 6m x 7.2m.
Any further recommendations on the number of power points, especially 15A I should consider?

The more machines I look at the more I see requiring 15A and quite a few 3 phase. Can I get 3 phase power run at my property? What questions do I need to ask?

:worthless:

I agree:D

Been too busy working on it to take piccies so I'll redeem myself next weekend :doh:

Internal framing is complete. Internal doors, window trims done, ready for the cable rough in. Getting a bit annoyed running an extension cord out there and having to stop when it gets dark.

Internal framing/battens complete..Sparky time!

New sheds are exciting huh?

You may have been going to anyway but I have built a couple of sheds and before I start moving stuff in I spend another 80 bucks and paint the floor, you won't regret it. much easier to keep clean, mop up spills etc.

I have a shed simmilar in proportions to your own. I have 4 pendant powerpoints from the ceiling and they dont get in the way if you have them hung high enough (mine are all about 2m of the ground which is perfect for me and inaccessible for the kids. I have a master isolator switch that as someone stated allows me to easily switch off power to the whole shed when I head back into the house. I have one powerpint that is not through the isolator it is for my battery chargers. That way i can turn the shed off but leave a battery charging while having lunch etc.

I have 8 double gpos around the wall of my shed every 2.5-3m. I can now work with nearly any of my tools anywhere in the shed without extension cords (I love it!) I teach and was always hanging around the woodwork room and they have mainly pendant powerpoints for OHS reasons.

The SCMS has a shorter cord so maybe think about where it will go when getting powerpoints installed.

I have running water (must have).

8 double fluros and some area specific lighting for lathe, bench grinder etc.

Also might be worth acurately marking location of studs before lining walls so you dont have to use a stud finder when hanging cabinets etc. I was also advised that rather than lining a shed with gyprock 10mm mdf is better as it will take a hit and not break or end up with a hole. Even if you only use it for the bottom 900mm or so it is a good idea.

If three phase is available and not too pricey then maybe worth getting. The thing is that it cuts down competition in buyers for second hand equipment, that being 3 phase is also likely to be better built.

Keep us updated with your building.
Cheers
Shannon