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I have been reading a book on finishing by Bob Flexner with an interesting chapter on Oil Finishes in which he distinguishes between oil/varnish mixes, and thinned varnish among other categories. Does anyone know into which category Cabots Danish Oil fits?
A short answer, there are basically 2 types of oil finishes sold, regardless of what names the companies may use.
#1 - You will wipe this oil on with a cloth, allow it to dwell for several miniutes to soak and pentrate into the wood, and then you wipe the oil off, and allow each coat to dry. Multiple thin coats are used to build up this oil finish.
#2- You can brush or wipe on this type of oil finish, you then allow the finish to dry, because you allow to remain on the wood, you will get a higher build in the coating. The amount of applications needed will depend on your personal taste. but usually, sanding, rubbing, and polishing are used to complete this type of oil/ varnish.
Both of these types of "oil finishes" may have the same exact ingredients except #2 has more alkyd resins to make this coating build up faster and. better.
Good Luck
There is a third type, which requires friction sealing. In Oz, the Organoil finishes fall into and are a great example of, this category. You swab the workpiece with oil to reach saturation and sand with a ROS to get the proper finish. I personally like this method.
Regards,
Rob
thanks cliff,
but in ordinary layspeak it dosnt seem to tell us actually what it's made of.
I always assumed it was an veg based oil with a synthetic hardener.
I must say that I.ve used it for years and got FP like finishes.
not quite as good but good
Astrid
Thanks Cliff but the site does not really clarify my question although I might guess that there is really no "oil" involved and that it is a thined polyurethane which can be wiped on. Anyone else know for certain which type it is?
"30-60% Kerosene, 30-60% Synthetic Polymers, 10-30% Mineral Turpentine."
I guess that accurate measurement ain't their "thing." :U
Wolfs,
Both, the Kerosene and the Mineral Turpentine are consided "oily solvents."
It would be the "wipe on / wipe off" type, the polyurethane would be the resin and binder, you would be wiping off the oily solvents and leaving polyurethane as the coating.
There was a clue in the description, and that was it is "a hand rubbed finish."
Andhere I was thinking it was a sub species of Scandanavia Oil, which, as we all know, is what the Scandanavians use for Swedish massages.:D:D:q
So! No wonder they darken after massaging.Quote:
Originally Posted by artme
Has Danish oil perhaps have the juices of compressed Danes (Great or otherwise) in it?:?
Seriously,
I know Scandinavian oil has some varnish in it and given the way Feast and Watson Danish oil clogs grain something terrible (you lose half the figure of the wood) I suspect you'll find some plastic in the Cabot's as well.
Regards,
Rob
They aren't bloody stupid, :rolleyes: they aren't going to give you the recipe on a plate. :D
If you read both docs closely you will pick out most of it.
no UV stabilisersQuote:
penetrating oil for interior
Quote:
Polyurethane resin
no leadQuote:
Lead free. Dry film is non-toxic.
You missed one of the important ones Skew... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
And the application....Quote:
Ingredients determined not to be hazardous, - to 100%
So, it has Kero, Turps, PolyU, maybe a bit of grit to give it a satin finish, no lead or UV stabilisers & you apply it with a brush. :2tsup:Quote:
Timber finish. Applied by brush.
The Polyurethane that they use is a "satin" it already contains the "flattening agent"....
It also says on the can that its "oil rich"
I knew it had kero and poly in it, but describing turps as an oil is a bit rich.
never mind , its still a good product.
:Uastrid
I don't know that it says that it contains polyurethane, it says "synthetic polymers".
This can mean a variety of things, if they also say "oil rich" then it probably means that the "synthetic polymer" is a long-oil alkyd, probably 70% oil-length. Then the description would be correct.
Most Danish/Scandinavian Oils use long-oil alkyds they are more stable in the can at the low solids in these products. (28% V/V - 100micron wet film gives 28micron dry film)
That is how the DO we used to sell was formulated.
On the MSDS it saysQuote:
Originally Posted by Big Shed
but if you look at the Product Data Sheet it saysQuote:
Synthetic polymer(s)
Quote:
Polyurethane resin
Cliff, didn't read the PDS only the MSDS, but you are correct. That then probably means that this is subject to gelling in the can, particularly part cans.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers
Single pack polyurethanes still contain oil, so technically they are correct.
Arh but.... https://www.ubeaut.biz/oldman.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by astrid
Look carefully & read between the lines.... https://www.ubeaut.biz/deal.gif
Raw Linseed oil is classed as
On the other hand, Boiled Lindseed; or more correctly, Polymerised Lindseed although it is also classed asQuote:
NON HAZARDOUS ACCORDING TO CRITERIA OF WORKSAFE AUSTRALIA
Quote:
NON-HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCE. NON-DANGEROUS GOODS. According to
the Criteria of NOHSC, and the ADG Code.
It does have risks that have to be listed on the MSDS.
Quote:
RISK
Contact with combustible material may cause fire.
Cumulative effects may result following exposure*.
May affect fertility*.
May possibly be harmful to the foetus/ embryo*.
* (limited evidence).
SAFETY
Keep away from combustible material.
Avoid exposure - obtain special instructions before use.
So, they can put Raw Lindseed oil in the mixture & include it in the bit that says
Quote:
Ingredients determined not to be hazardous - to 100%
They don't have to tell you how much is in there.... :D
I've got a really good idea!
a bit like asking direction and only a woman would do it!
I'll ring them and ask:U
Astrid
BS
It does gell if you dont turn it upsidedown when about half full.
but mix the gell with good wax and it makes a cracking hard wax that buffs up beautifully and can be coloured with powders and it keeps a while.
This is great for a wax only finish.
Astrid
We recently had ACOHS redo our MSDS's and the Australian regulations call for a broad percentage to be used rather then an exact or close measurement. We sent in exact and it came back with figures so broad that I had to get them to refine them because it could put us over the limit for some countries with the amount of Turpentine used before it changed to another category of Dangerous goods.
An MSDS is basically a worst case scenario for what a product is or could be responsible for. Instructions for getting Traditional wax out of your eyes: Flush for 15 minutes with water. For getting it off your hands: flush with water.
Helllloooow. It's a freakin' wax..... insoluble in water, incompatible with water and extremely water resistant. That doesn't matter this is what the standards say and so that is why it's on the MSDS.
Most of the danish oils (and I'd hazard a guess, this includes Cabots), are basically really well watered down poly, mainly with turps but sometimes with kero or white spirits, (they're cheaper and yes here in Oz there is a difference between turps and white spirits) often with a little linseed oil added. The greatest money-spinner of all times for the paint companies because some are selling you about 80-90% thinners at ridiculous prices, of as much as 500% - 1000% markup.
Look at the price of 5 litres of DO then look at 5 lt of turps and a 500ml tin of Poly, that's just about what you're paying for. the turps is probably costing a big manufacturer around $3 for 5 lt the poly could be the dregs from their last brew, maybe 50c worth and add a few cents for linseed.
The good stuff is usually made with spar varnish and tung oil with the addition of a much smaller amount of mineral turps.
Have had a great recipe for it for years and even made a few test samples a few years ago which worker brilliantly, but refused to bring out something in competition with the best that was only an also ran. Much prefer to bring out one that was much better than the rest.
Sorry folks.... Rant off, time for bed.:sleep1:
PS I'm not happy with the way our MSDS's read but like most manufacturers you basically just have to live with it.
Polyurethane, is a "synthetic polymer" although, there are many other synthetic polymers.
Polyurethane, would work with both the kerosene and mineral turpentine, the viscosity would depend on the the amount of solvents added to the polyurethane.
No lead in Kerosene or just not enough to list