WIP - Kitchen, bathroom, laundry and verandah

Just come off three weeks of worknig on the house and I thought I'd crow a little on behalf of the team...

Fugly was a little timber box dating from the 1920's. Over time it had morphed from a four room box to a five room house with enclosed rear verandah. On the positive side, it has a strong hardwood frame and was fully gyprocked internally in the early 90's. On the negative side, it is very low to the ground and is clad twice (fibro then fake brick :~)

Previous owners had seen fit to place the bathroom, laundry and part of the kitchen within the enclosed verandah. Bad move cause the floor sloped and the inclusions were badly built. Result was structural failure on a grand scale........so it had to be replaced. With something slightly larger and with a back verandah

At the same time, we decided to add 70sqm of enclosed verandah out to the side, new deck out the front, new old windows all around and a total reclad & reroof in a combo of zincalume and colorbond. So we'll be at this a while yet.

But this is where we started just three weeks back...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...rsection_x.jpg
This is what was....everything under the flatter roof pitch had to go.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1000649_x.jpg This is what was left after the wrecking crew had been playing for nearly a week

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...cture045_x.jpg Once the dingo and bobcat had been playing we were left with a field of holes...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...P1000674_x.jpg which were filled with red gum stumps (down 800mm!) and topped with Duragal bearers....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...cture064_x.jpg ...which were covered with new hardwood joists....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...cture067_x.jpg...while the new rear verandah has oiled red gum joists. The little shack to the right of the water tank is our very comfortable temporary bathroom (even has hot water)

We've since done part of the framing for the new bathroom and laundry and sourced the rear verandah posts (125x125 red gum - lovely) but I'll see if I can add some more photos to reflect this a little later..

Geez that house is low on the ground as is the deck in progress. I'm not sure it would pass the Qld regulations for termite inspection clearance (not sure what the regs are for your area). Are you going to chemically treat the dirt under the deck bit for termites?

Doog

LOL Photo 3 looks like a battleground complete with fallen comrades Hee hee!

SBD,

Have a beer on me. It looks like a major project you have started on there.

Keep the updates coming!

Ohhhhhhh yeah. Old Fugly is low to the ground........no question. However, because of this we could get away with the new section being close too.

We thought about lifting the house but it simply wasn't worth it. It would've resulted in extreme over capitalisation.....as would've a new house.

Termite treatment is a given........and it has been received. Termites also explain why we used steel bearers....it ain't perfect but as long as it makes it harder for the little buggers to get to lunch then I'm a happy camper.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ontheright.jpg

The first frames are on....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...newlaundry.jpg

...and covered with sarking.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...tsandrails.jpg

The rear verandah posts and top rails (all river red gum) have been through the thicknesser and had two coats of oil. They are now awaiting their inclusion into the structure.

OO LA LA ! river red gum !! You cant get it up here unless you are very very rich!

This is the extension where you are installing the half wood, half tile bathroom floor ?

Keep up the good work

Doog

Quote:

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This is the extension where you are installing the half wood, half tile bathroom floor ?

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Yep...


More additions....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ckbegins1x.jpg
Beginnings of the new front deck.....steel bearers that will be covered by 200x50 sleepers running at right angles to the house. The window will be replaced by french doors...and the fake brick will go!!

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ahtoprailx.jpg
Some of the rear verandah posts are up...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...stdetail2x.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r.../RRGdetail.jpg
Some timber detail......nice figure, eh?:2tsup:

Hi SBD, Yep that is lovely figure and color!!

Years ago I found a stash of river red (old growth I was told) and thought I would make chest of drawers out it. It had grain almost the same at that in your pics. I fastidiously finished the drawers off but within a few years the timber was still cracking and checking. Just a learning experience I suppose. I hope you can get it to stay in the condition it is in the pics.

BTW what is that flowering tree you got out the front?

Doog

RRG (especially in thin sections) really needs to be fully sealed in poly or similar AND ideally should be select grade to minimise timber movement. There are a few furniture makers about that use RRG but it is always fully sealed and thicker than you'd expect.

My stuff is 1st grade roughsawn but with kiln drying would probably end up feature grade rather than select. Given the size of the pieces and the form that some of the older pieces are in (see old pergola posts behind the new frame) I think they'll be OK.

We think the tree in flower is some sort of ornamental cherry.......

I can't wait for the next pics. When I sell this place I might just kick back and watch all the reno projects in these forums for a while Lol

Been on the busy side so progress has been slow-ish but most of the frames are up and the back deck is done...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...alittleass.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...allinplace.jpg

Looks good.

Just a point. That lintel should have jamb studs, or be continuous to the next stud if it's fully housed.
If it's half housed, you've probably done your homework and I should just shut up.

nice going! Can't wait to see this one progress

I love the red gum. I grew up in Barmah all my life, my old man worked at the saw mill. I lived, breathed, and played with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pawnhead

Just a point. That lintel should have jamb studs, or be continuous to the next stud if it's fully housed.
If it's half housed, you've probably done your homework and I should just shut up.

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Well spotted!! It wasn't till after the photos were taken that I stood back, looked and swore :doh:. I'd housed the lintel but forgotten the continuous stud. So now there is a continuous stud in there as well...

The red gum deck is 200x50x2700 landscape sleepers that have been dressed in the thicknesser. They've been slotted between the 100x50 red gum joists. The sleepers have been spaced up level using red gum as well. Finish is Intergrain Natural Decking Oil. The sleepers were about $11 each and there are 30 of them....from a materials perspective the cost per sq metre worked out at roughly $20. Cheap yes but she took a bit of time to finish and fit.....:U

Last two walls this weekend and the roof frame next weekend....

You also don't really need those extra jack studs under the plate at the bottom of the window opening. They don't carry much weight apart from packers to support the window until it's fixed solidly through the sides.

Man I reckon this is Aussie innovation at its best!

:D:D:D:D

Framing was approved by the council today!! And old mate inspector reckoned the new back deck looked 'really good'.

So now we can do a roof!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SilentButDeadly

Termite treatment is a given........and it has been received. Termites also explain why we used steel bearers....it ain't perfect but as long as it makes it harder for the little buggers to get to lunch then I'm a happy camper.

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You do realise that the termites can just climb over the bearers and into the joists?

The whole point of using termite caps and steelwork is just to slow them down. So that a regular inspection can detect them and they can be removed before they damage the house. You will not be able to inspect, so you really needed to provide a barrier that they can't foil. I can't believe that the council inspector would allow you to get away with it as it is clearly stated in the BCA. I just hope you treated the ground.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DvdHntr

You do realise that the termites can just climb over the bearers and into the joists?

The whole point of using termite caps and steelwork is just to slow them down. So that a regular inspection can detect them and they can be removed before they damage the house. You will not be able to inspect, so you really needed to provide a barrier that they can't foil. I can't believe that the council inspector would allow you to get away with it as it is clearly stated in the BCA. I just hope you treated the ground.

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I'm well aware of the capabilities of termites but I'm not terrified of them:U

The house stumps have all been treated in accordance with the BCA and the underfloor is now well ventilated so I've done about all I can do in terms of risk minimisation.....and we are located in semi-arid Oz so we don't have the humidity problem of most Australian rat runs :doh: sorry.....cities, which seems to encourage termites to climb considerable distances...

Routine inspections for termites and other greeblies are also a given....even here:;

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SilentButDeadly

Routine inspections for termites and other greeblies are also a given....even here:;

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How do you get under there to inspect? looks like about 150mm.

Also, they will not attack the stumps but they will go for those nice newly sawn timber joists. Having steel bearers makes little difference in my opinion. I think they would have cost a fair bit more than conventional timber bearers.

Underfloor inspections admittedly aren't easy as most of the existing house is fairly close to the ground but I've carved a couple of crawl paths under both old and new sections which even a bloke like me can warp and weft into.

True.....termites will gun for the joists but the as we said the stumps are treated, the bearers are steel, the underfloor is well ventilated and underfloor soil moisture is almost no existant....so they'll have to work hard to get there. Not impossible very true but apart from knocking the thing down and building totally in steel there's not much I can do to totally obliviate the risk...

And yep gal steel costs more than hardwood bearers (steel $120/8m length) but a) a smaller profile will carry more weight over a longer span (which meant I could deal with the limited height issues) and b) is still cheaper than modern termite treated LVL alternatives like Hyspan.

If we'd tried to use timber bearers then they would either have been sitting on the ground or sitting on stumps only 1000mm apart or less as opposed to the far more practical 1500mm spacing we got away with....

Well........things have moved onwards....the frames are covered for starters....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...sisalation.jpg

Yes we know it's the shiny side out and that's not the way everyone does it but it's very hot where we are for more of the year than it's cool and.....it only makes R 0.1 of a difference anyway!!

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...sisalation.jpg

The back deck has turned out really really well....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...rupondrush.jpg

...and just to show that one must have plans when building something this...flash....here are ours..
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...thaveplans.jpg

Hi, Great thread :2tsup: especially seeing as though i am about to undertake something very similar.
Couple of questions just for my own learning purposes:
Was there a point of installing decking joists as in the end you didnt use them other then for decorative purposes?

By the pictures, the decking roof posts dont go into the ground, are they bolted onto the bearers/joists and how, or am i miss-seeing them?

Love the plans, did you have to submit any to the council before building?

Looks great, keep the pictures/updates coming
Cheers<O:p</O:p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Purse

Was there a point of installing decking joists as in the end you didnt use them other then for decorative purposes?

By the pictures, the decking roof posts dont go into the ground, are they bolted onto the bearers/joists and how, or am i miss-seeing them?

Love the plans, did you have to submit any to the council before building?

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q1. Yes...there was a point. The plans said there'd be hardwood 90x45 joists....and we didn't want to disappoint to building dude and have him turn around and disappoint us!! Plus the contrasting sizes works quite well...the building dude thought so too.

q2. You're right...they don't go into the ground. They are housed over the bearer and bolted, triple gripped to the joist and nailed to the interjoint block that the sleepers are screwed to....I hope I don't ever need to pull them down :U

q3. Yep...we took the wall (it used to divide the kitchen from the laundry before we realised it'd fit in the new 'hole' we'd created) down to the planners office in the back of the ute before we kicked off......his signature and stamp are on the centre left (over the water container).

Silent, our council requires that we submit 3 copies of plans........if you had to do the same I recon you may have some problems with drafts.:D

I had to submit 3 full copies and 6 basic plan and front elevations. The funny thing is I don't think they even checked mine because they asked about things that were clearly stated or shown on the drawings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Silent, our council requires that we submit 3 copies of plans........if you had to do the same I recon you may have some problems with drafts.:D

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We DO have a problem with drafts even now that the plans have been returned....:U

A message to the dude that invented/sold/fitted fake rooftiles made of pressed metal:

MATE, WHEN THE REVOLUTION COMES.....I WILL BE HUNTING YOU DOWN.

...and you will be placed against the wall next to your best mate (the dickhead who invented/sold/fitted fake brick wall cladding) where I will take abject delight in dumping a roof load of your poxy pressed metal tiles on your head!!

...that's better.

Normal programming will resume when I've recovered.<SIGH<SIGH>

Okay!! We have a new roof....

But first we had to remove TWO old rooves.

First the tin tiles.......
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...rysenseoft.jpg

plus a layer of hardwood battens...
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...yernearlyg.jpg

then the final layer of corrugated iron.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...1layertogo.jpg

Repeated out the front....
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...roof-front.jpg

Then fit the new roof...

First out the back....
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...wroof-rear.jpg

Then out front...
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...roof-front.jpg

So how did it turn out?

Out the front...without the new cladding...it's a bit like putting a new cap on a broken bottle
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...Roof-front.jpg

But out back......it shows real potential!!
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...wRoof-rear.jpg

Dude, your making me tired just reading your thread. Great work.
I'm going for a nap.:D

Doc.

Further progress has been made!!

Firstly.......we wrapped the rear in corrugated iron

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...Anewlook3a.jpg

Then added a couple of doors and a window or two...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...Anewlook2a.jpg

then removed an internal wall...
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...allisgonex.jpg

...on the same day as a massive dust storm (which wasn't good since the main south facing window had not been fitted)

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...fthestormx.jpg

So after the shovels and brooms had been put away and the last window fitted and trimmed it looks a bit like this...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...a/Anewlook.jpg

love it .................. esp. the corro!