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Dose anyone know the best way to change the color of an item of furniture (tas-oak) that has been stained with a light-oak spirit based stain, then sprayed with acrylic laquer, then polished with a 2000# pad with the ROS using linseed oil as a lube?
Someone stuffed up:cool: and it has to be changed to light-walnut without stripping. And its to have the ye olde look. Thanks if you can advise me:)
Can you spray a coat of toned Nitro on it, then rub it back to dull it down...:?
I'd mix some metho up with some lacquer thinners, that might lift it to some degree
Then a walnut lacquer spray stain over it
On reflection I'd try to find an experienced (spray) polisher.
A good one should be able to spray the stain and the final finish
Just tint some Acrylic lacquer to the walnut colour you want and redo.
Acrylic lacquer is easy to get ( if you already don't have it go to a auto paint supplier). Nitro won't adhere to the acrylic as it leaches solvent for months.
Clean the old surface with turps,or you can use a wax and grease remover but its only a slightly stronger version of turps. Wet a clean rag wipe the surface and immediately wipe off with a clean dry rag.
You can use the turps as a lube instead of linseed oil to rub the clear ( a few minutes after the acrylic lacquer has been sprayed if you mess the spraying up -runs dirt, drips etc) it won't hurt the clear and the sludge can be wiped away and more paint applied immediately.
There is no point in using linseed oil it only makes the surface oily and hinders any further spraying. The clear is usually rubbed with water but turps allows you to work on the clear sooner.
Tint the clear with some acrylic tinter to get your walnut colour apply till you get the colour you want. Keep the mix weak and thin and spray light coats ( even dust it on by holding the gun a fair way away) you can always apply more if its not strong enough but it will be harder to remove a coat that is too heavy.
As you may have only put on a thin layer to get your colour right spray 3 coats of straight clear over the tinted clear. This will allow you to work on the new surface without wrecking the colour you achieved. You can use normal clear it will give you about 70% gloss of the gun, cut it back with the turps if you want to reduce the gloss or you can add flatting base to the clear which will give you less gloss. The gloss can be altered by varying the amount of flatting base.
Depending on what you consider old look it's also possible to get additives to make the clear textured even cracked if thats what you want but as its mainly the colour you are worried about I presume flatting it with 2000 is OK.
oops! I knew that...not.:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by durwood
What Durwood has explained is the only way I would fix it, unless you strip it and start again. Who's boo-boo was it?:q :doh:
Go easy on the toner coats as it starts to cloud the grain as the layers build.
Brilliant Durwood:2tsup: if you were near by i would shout you a beer.Quote:
Originally Posted by durwood
That was a great run down and i now know what to do. Once again thanks.
And thanks Bob and Tim:wink:
Whos fault:? Um... maybe a bit of 50/50:rolleyes: I was spewin as it was my first finishing job with my new 150/3 and it was a ripper. Better than anything i have done before. Shame about the color:(
Good luck with it. Looks like a few hrs gone into that one.
It has and thats why im cranky. It had been delivered and 2 days later they decided the color was wrong, So i have to go pick it back up and re finish and re deliver:(Quote:
Originally Posted by martrix
It was also my first ever go at parquetry and i was tickled pink with how it turned out. Strangely enough my next job is a Cherry table with cabriols and parquetry top for a different person. Strange.
Here Liggy I fixed it for yer!
Are you charging them any extra?
Thanks Harry:D I have just emailed them the pic. Now i can get paid:wink:
Glad to be of service!
Lignum,
That looks an awesome piece anyway. What size was the parquetry? Was there a deep recess? It is a fabulous effect for a desk; even w/o a domino joint in sight or expectation.
Thanks Dragon:) The strips were 90 x 45mm x 6mm epoxied to a 9mm mmm de eff substrate.
Most parquetry on tables seems to be 90 x 90 squares with 90 x 45 borders in a basket weave surrounding them.
I like to do different, so i used the configuration shown.
Because it had to be stained. the stain went into the end grain and gave a real over/under effect.
Oh, the cow didnt like the color bla bla blah, she refused to take ownership, im now broke.... :-
Makes you wonder why you even bother with trying to make nice furniture for people in the first place. At least the bottle of red has helped:wink:
Its a beautiful piece. Excellent work.:2tsup:
Thanks munruben:) Shame it had to be beat-up to look old now that i have it. It was so much nicer when it was all crisp and clean and without stain. Heres another look at the whole desk.
So you fixed it and she *still* didn't want it? Cow!Quote:
Shame it had to be beat-up to look old now that i have it. It was so much nicer when it was all crisp and clean and without stain. Heres another look at the whole desk.
It's lovely - the parquetry top looks fantastic I might have a try of that one day? - and I think in the right marketplace you'd still be able to find a buyer for it?
Steph
Hey Lignum, customer not client doesn't deserve the piece. I hesitate to raise it because the parquetry is beaut but was it the colour or did she just change her mind about the style of the top maybe you can salvage the sale with a different top and use it, the parquestry on something or someone who can appreciate fine work. People are funny sometimes hard to get the real story. Hope you get my drift.
Just thinking that a bit of email marketing around Melbourne could be in order.
Do you know anyone who can tap you into legal/accounting/medical specialist circles? Or can the woodworking forum grapevine help with this?
Ask your original price plus 10% to give some negotiation room :D.
Steph