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I have a cream brick veneer home that we are looking to have rendered and e are in Burwood East Victoria.
Just want some advice as to what to look out for in service providers and how much a 4 bedroom, 2 living room single storey house would cost.
Any tips?
:rolleyes:
hello,
to give idea of cost:
length x height of walls (dont take out openings) and multiply by say $45.00
that will give fairly good price indication for 2 basecoats and 1 colored texture coat
if you are "handy" their is ways of saving dollars
thankyou
myla
Thanks for that.
I would consider myself handy...so what can I do to save some cash? What can I do?
hello,
by working with a renderer, yes I do rendering,
rendering is very easy, and around 70% of a rendering job is labour
will pm
thankyou
myla
No worries...please do.
I'm happy to get my hands dirty.
Myla,
thought this was a forum to help people on-line.
you're not fishing for work are you.
I am also a renderer but am not dangling the hook out for anyone.
just a query.
p.s. can't get any work offline? How come?
I'm flooded. Just returned form a two storey 40 squares job in QLD.
Hi there
I'm in the same predicament with Spider. I would like to render a blueboard but not really sure how to save $$$. I consider myself handy - just extended the house to a 2 bedroom.
Myla, just how hard is it to render. I haven't done one before let alone know what material I need.
Any help/advise would be great. I would like to mix oxide on the render.
Thanks
Rel
hello,
I actually like to work with owner builders who want to contribute labour, learn a new skill and save money.
My refernces stand the test of time.
Rendering is not that difficult and have stated before most "handy" people could trowel on the wall and float but may have trouble when getting to corners, window reveals etc
Cement sheet is flat, so easier as everything is thin coats.
Bunnings sell a cement sheet render (20kg) bag, mix with water and trowel on with mesh over joints.
Rel, do you want what I call a mechanical pristine looking wall, ie. color very constant?
thanks
myla
Thanks for your reply, Myla. Hey, by the way, I don't mean to hijack this thread. Sorry, Spider.
But, I guess, it is relevant to your saving $$$ and learning how to render.
So, what is a 'mechanical pristine'? Please, enlighten us. And if it's make the job easier, better looking, etc, then I am all for it.
Over to you, Myla.
Please so enlighten us: what is mechanical prisitine?
hello,
most paint type finishes give what I describe as the mechanical pristine finish, constant color, either by paint or trowel on texture (paint type product) and is probably on 80-90% of most houses that are rendered
oxide type renders are available as premixed dry 20kg bags with oxide incorporated and give a slight patchy-ness to the finish, although are coming back in fashion with the french provincial style architecture that is appearing
they also age and have some people think a bit more character
thankyou
myla
1. What would be the most economical option - paint-type or cement render?
2. What would be most workable between the two....for a novice?
3. Workability - which is easier to apply?
4. Any ballpark figure on prices on both types?
5. Durability - how long does each last before any noticeable, say fading or cracking?
6. Last but not the least, with such experiences and skills you possess as I seem to portray you....based on what I had been reading....what would be the recommended render for a blueboard.
Thank you, Myla.
hello,
1. if doing yourself, material cost wont really be an issue, labour is the big cost if contractor doing work,
2. the paint type, also the high polymer type bags, thin coats
3. the paint type or high polymer bags, as thin coats
4. not sure in syd, bag of high polymer for blueboard maybe around $35/20kg, get around 8-10sqM coverage if thin coat, paint type's around $60/15lt
5. cracking comes down to application, I like to bed mesh in when doing first coat, others do joints one day, then skim first coat the next, fading is down to climate xposure, sun, uv, shady walls etc,
but typically you may get 7-15 yrs before any treatment depending on color and maintenance of walls, ie cleaning
6. i like the high polymer cement 20kg bag mixes, first skim coat and bed mesh, second coat to neaten up, then either paint (weathershield) or trowel on paint-type texture to color
tools, not sure in Syd, probably best bet would be a small plasterboard supplier, they would have tools and most likely the render
thankyou
myla
Do yo mean ....mesh, as in what you use on gyprock wall joint prior to plastering?
I had just been reading the render paint made by wattyl. Is this the same?
http://www.wattyl.com.au/Applicators...ady+Render.htm
Cheers
hello,
yes similar to meshing gyprock, whether it be plasterboard, blueboard, hebel powerpanel or any cladding the joints require treatment
that product from wattyl (granosite) is new and dulux have a similar called Powerfinish for Hebel powerpanel
I am sceptical of these new products as they heavily promote no meshing of the joints, I am not so sure
dulux and granosite (wattyl) have good finishing products, trowell on texture coats, paint is thin thin thin, like 0.1 of a millimetre,
with rendering you still need body to cover, treat joint etc
thankyou
myla
dulux and granosite (wattyl) have good finishing products, trowell on texture coats, paint is thin thin thin, like 0.1 of a millimetre,
If that's the case then, I'll what you suggested. That is using render cement.
Do I need to get white cement? It's going to have a yellowy-creamy colour.
Can you describe how to render?
Like you said, I probably skim a first coat then top up with second coat then painting it with the render paint.
Any suggestion?
Cheers
Are you able to give some idea of how much a house this size would cost?Quote:
Originally Posted by schwerdty
I will throw in my take on rendering.
I consider myself a fairly handy and practical guy but I wouldn't dream of doing a render job on my own.
Some things DIYers can do but rendering is not one of them.
Labouring for a guy like Myla yes, and even troweling under his supervision, when he has set up the right material, the right preparation, how thick a coat and the right mix etc.
When he is there to give you a kick up the bum if you are playing around too much on a small area instead of going for the whole.
Some jobs look deceptively easy, and with the right training and practice I guess they are, plastering is one of them.
It looks easy but it ain't.
Cheers
Bill
hello rebaj,
to work out approx cost if getting crew in simply do the following:
a. work out area of wall, length x height, this will give you total sqM (do not take windows out at this point)
b. multiply this figure by 44, as most renderers are charging around this figure per sqM
this will give you a basic indication of cost if single story, walk up start for 2 basecoats and 1 color texture coat
some things to keep in mind is if double story an allowance for scaffolding would be required or roof fall protection, so do same calculation but u will not have scaffold allowance
thats when some additional cost would come on for scaffold, grinding, meshing etc
the thing with an OWNER providing labor, with rendering, someone is always required to mix up, tape windows, clean up, move trestles, do a bit of floating, set up straight edges, prime walls
all very easy things
thankyou
myla
just a quick check. I'm having a new house built.
I wanted a part of the front facade rendered ilo of the standard bagged/painted finish.
surface area is about 22.5 sqm + another 15% or so for the returns, lets say 26sqm. There are two sections, one surrounds a large window, and the other side is the garage surround.
If I ignore the window per some of the comments here, a should add another 7.5sqm
So lets say 33.5sqm.
Builder wants to charge 3k to render this portion. Thats about $90sqm at best case, not forgetting that the contract already includes bagged & painted.
I'm getting the feeling from this thread that this isn't a reasonable cost.
Anyone have any comments? I can post a pic if it helps.
hello,
yes, come across this
couple of friends just went for the face brick option then rendered sections as required
can you cancel the bagging/painting option?
Can only see the cost rising to that figure if any piers are included.
thankyou
myla
Quote:
Originally Posted by myla
so you think the quote might be resonable?