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I am building a workbench this weekend. It is constructed mainly of 2.6's and I was wondering which type of wood I should use?
Mostly what I see in Home Depot is Pine. Is that OK for a workbench or should I be using something else?
Any info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Person
Excellent topic to start a fight, why didn't you mention politics or religon as well :rolleyes:
:)
In camp 1 we have the group of people who make the work bench from furniture quality wood, with all the right holes for bench dogs and vices etc, and then french polish it (well shine it up anyway)
In camp 2 are the group that says if it does the job well then who cares what it looks like.
I'm obviously in camp 2, my bench is made of pine 2x4 and 7ply for top and shelves. It keeps my work off the floor and is great for storing tools.
Your bench will enevitably get knocked about, chipped, scared, stained, written on etc. The best idea I've heard on this board is to top it all off with a sacraficial piece of hardboard, when it gets too rough or gluey turf it and get a new piece, hey presto new bench.
There is no doubt that the camp 1 benches are beautiful pieces of work, lovely to look at, well designed, with all the conveniances you could need ... but I'd be too scared to use it incase I mared the perfect finish.
Hi there,
I would suggest a wood that is light in colour and texture. stay way from pine, being a soft wood it will damage quite readily.
I would suggest Mountain Ash or Tassie oak, good hardwoods that are quite strong and pretty too.
get yourself a good veritas quick release vice.
your table top should be nice and strong and I would recommend at least 45mm thick (as most "In-bench" inserts such as dogs and clamps are built for a 45 mm thick bench)
make sure that your support system (legs etc) are strong and sturdy enough to take the bashing it will surely get. - then you can put in some cupboards for your hand tools too..
if you've got the skill - make some big dovetail joints in the end pieces - it will look great.
Have a look at recycled wood. It is a lot cheaper and allows you to make mistakes without destroying expensive bought timber.
My workbench is constructed out of Oregan from a pergola that was going to the tip, made a fantastic bench and didn't cost a cent.
Suresh
Person
If you do a quick search for "Workbench" on this forum you will find that this topic has already been thoroughly discussed already.
In summary, the materials you use will depend on your objective. Opinions vary on what materials to use, but it appears that most people avoid making their bench entirely out of hardwoods because it is a waste of expensive wood. Also, pine is not likely be dented by your workpiece rather than the other way around. Ignore any recommendations by American woodworkers to use maple or oak - its way too expensive here in Oz.
I am currently building my first workbench from scratch. Its intended purpose is for all round weekend use (woodwork, small metal projects, assembly, painting, etc) so its not intended to be a showpiece. Therefore, I'm using relatively cheap, solid and tough materials and aiming to spend a bit on a couple of quality vices that I can always move to any future bench. I'm using ordinary structural pine and CD plywood for the frame with an MDF table topped with a disposable tempered masonite surface. I find that structural pine is easy to work with and heavy enough to make a solid frame. The only area you may want to consider using hardwood (eg Tassie Oak) is skirting the table top, especially in the vice faces. These areas take a beating during woodwork and hardwood will last longer.
I find that ordinarily structural pine from the local hardware store is rarely straight or square, despite being "Dress All Round". If you can buy it rough and then get access to a decent jointer/planer and thicknesser (through a friend or woodworkign class) to square up the timber before assembly it should make your task easier. Also, pine will shrink and grow during the seasons, so I'd recommend joining the stretchers to the legs using bolts and rather than using glued mortices and tenons. When the frame shrinks a little you can tighten up the frame to reduce movement.
My two cents worth...:)
[PS: I love this topic on woodworking wrecks - its always brings out the "art piece versus workhorse" debate]
What a coincidence, I too am building my workbench this weekend. I won't get it finished in the weekend because it has a few extra features that go beyond the average bench, but I'll give it a good go.
My question is, what timber is best to use for the top of the bench? I have a quick release vice to attach to is so it needs to be strong enough to support the vice and then some, but I am a little price conscious given I have already spent a few hundred $ on all the bits and pieces I need for it. Having said that I will spend what it takes to get the right thing.
A solid core door has been suggested, amongst other things.
Can anyone shed any light on the matter?
Laminating plywood to the required thickness makes a very strong top.
In the past I have also used ex-plumbing store display bench tops (nicely laminated into the bargain)
Well for years now my work bench has been a solid core door - strips of pine about 25 x 25 laminated together faced with 5mm exterior ply both sides. This sits on top of a pair of 900 high saw stools (which also double as scaffolding supports on occasions). Scored the door off a job - $nil (but last time I bought one it was $70). Saw stools I built 15 years ago for $45. When one side of the top gets too damaged (hasn't happened yet) I can flip it over and use the other side. It's all quite sturdy and the stools have sat around with 2 ton of green timber on them. You could if neccesary lay into something witha sledge hammer on it without any problems. When time permits I like to make stuff for personal use in the workshop (as opposed to paying work), time is precious and I'd rather spend it making furniture for the house than furniture for the workshop. My 2.2c worth.:)
Mick
No one has thrown in a "work-is-art" comment yet so I thought i'd throw my two cents worth in.
I am of the opinion that (especially for bench tops) solid hardwood is the only way to go. Plywood/MDF/chipboard bench tops just don't cut it for a serious workbench. I've spent some time in Japan, and the way they respect their tools (including workbenches) often exceeds the respect they have for their finished work. The beautifully made workbenches you often see in the US made out of maple (or beech in Europe), are as many others have suggested like pieces of funiture. And why not?? You spend more time in the shed on weekends than anywhere else, why not be in an environment where you can use every day a masterpiece that will last a lifetime? Replaceable MDF bench tops replace the very thing I find appealing in a well used bench - the timeless appearance of a lot of good work being produced on it!
I am currently working on my own workbench, which will definitely take more than a weekend, as I want a bench that I can admire every time I use it. I am using relatively inexpensive (compared with maple) F17 hardwood and spent a lot of time picking out clean, quatersawn boards. It will clean up really well with a good finish. For the base I am using recycled Meranti, with a fully enclosed shaker style cabinet with 15 drawers. On a side note, Veritas vices (particularly the larger ones) lend themselves to strong wood to mount on. I personally wouldn't trust mounting them on MDF.
Hope I don't sound too elitist - not my goal. I just think if you're going to put work in something you'll use everyday, why not do it properly?
:)
Gotta say, I agree with Cambo, work is art is quite valid on this forum. theres lotsa guys that append and always mention how wonderful the grain pattern is or how equisitely detailed some dovetail they've been working on for 3 months is or how they admire the simplistic rustic-ness of some piece they have rescued from some ditch in the road. So following that line of logic what cambo sez is perfectly right - the single tool that will outlast just about anything else in the workshop including the owner should deserve pride of place and art.
Assuming of course you are a hobbyist that can afford to spend the time to do such a detailed task on such a "basic" item.
Lets face it how many of you guys are gunna spend $30 on some power tool/piece of crap from China that will last 3 minutes when you can spend $300 and make it last a lifetime.
Person old son, go ahead an build youself a workbench out of particle board, old doors and off cuts - it will serve you well but dont expect show it off to your customers or your woodie mates. The analogy is that of Festool v's GMC or if you like chalk and cheese!
Our main work bench is made of iron bark - tough as nails, and easy to look after. If we need a soft(er) surface to work on, we just nail down a bit of mdf etc and remove when done.
Soon I will be making a bench specifically for wood work out of some blood-wood we had milled a while ago. Again, tough and strong, and will last for ever. I am going to try and make it bolt together, as I seem to move a lot.
It is no good recomending timber to Person for a work bench as he is obviously American (Home Depot) and Cadnams has not bothered to register his location.
Cheers
Barry
Work is NOT art. Work is the consumption of time and effort to create an end product usually resulting in money. Art is the end product of passion, love and skill (time is involved, but the amount expended is immaterial). One day (maybe) when I'm retired I'll build one of those fancy work of art benches, and I'll lovingly create using only traditional tools and methods. In the meantime I try to strike the balance between quality and affordability, between enjoying what I do and making a good living out of it. It boils down to making the highest financially sustainable quality in the least amount of time; to using a jointer over a jointing plane, to owning and using 8 different powered saws but only 3 handsaws; and to cobbling together whatever type of workbench is required to get the job at hand done. :)
Not bagging anyone here, just sharing some of my journey with you. I started with a degree in visual arts, worked in graphic arts, got my trade papers as a carpenter/joiner and now when time permits am creating works to exhibit as a sculptor/timber artist.
Mick
Thanks for all of the replies! I did not relize it was such a touchy subject.
I am not looking to build a masterpiece right now. I just want to build a bench that will get the job done. Later on I will probably build something really nice but for now I am just looking for the basic workbench.
Thanks again,
Person
Look down there, yes, under this...............
Thanks guys. Your replies have made for interesting entertainment as well as very useful advice (including justifications, very impressed).
I have just spend large chucks of the last three days (yes I even took a day off work to get stuck into my bench) and have progressed a considerable way. I still am yet to acquire my top. Whilst I salivate at the thought of having a great hardwood top my budget will not allow for it at the moment (spent too much money on good quality tools).
I have built a frame that is partly solid and partly bolted together (it will be too heavy to move otherwise) and should last my life time at least. It might not be made of exotic timber but it looks pretty good to me (I have taken considerable care in its construction even if the timber is not the stuff I have dreamt of) as well as being good and strong. Tonight I will be assembling the entire frame (just waiting for the glue to dry) and I am quite excited about it. I have spent many hours already and it is starting to really take shape.
Anywan, thanks for the advice. I am now up to the point of deciding what type of top I will use so the advice has come very much in handy.
Hi,
I was recently at my brothers place in Qld and he had just finished building an Island Work Bench.
He bought a sheet of hardwood ply which is used to construct concrete form work. I know its very dark to make a bench top with, but it is a flat, smooth hard wearing surface.
Cheers,
Glen
Hi there Tex - class me as a group 2 bench man - though woodwork is my hobby I still need to fix the family cars , fix the plumbing, household appliances etc. etc.. Hence I need a bench that can take a pounding.
Of importance is that you need to be able to rely upon the fact that the top is flat and true! Thus - being of Scottish background and stingy I used a reject kitchen bench top. Those who do the roll form laminating sometimes have "whoops - slips" or they have a "ding" during handling. Here they are about 1 1/4 inch thick - flat and solid!! Try your yellow pages in the phone book for a roll former near you.
This will probably make all you chippies spew but that life!
My bench is solid steel, yes 3/16" mild steel sheet welded to an angle iron framework which in turn supports 5 shelves of dexion draws. It has a multi rotational engineers offset straight/pipe vice which would make any mechanic green with envy and three side of this structure have a 1/2" rise to prevent bolts or screws rolling off.
Takes 4 men to lift - less with skates or floor jacks, but its solid. The worlds best bench for rebuilding classic go fast motorcycles like my FJ1100.
When I want to work in the other medium (wood) the 3 sided rise takes a fitted section of timber to form a bench top and the holes for the wood vice are already there to be bolted in.
A bench has to be versitile and you can't hammer something into submission without cold hard steel underneath.
Mark:D
hi,
i hope this little info will help.
if you re lookin for good quality wood yet being tight in your budget. Can try looking for old furniture that sell cheap or give away free.
i realise nowsaday most furniture were made of chipboard or other low cost material which somehow with compromised quality. And in the olden time, most furniture were made of good quality hard wood.
i've collected quite a big pile of good clean maranti wood from a thrown away bed (some pple just like to replace the old furniture though still in good condition). After a few hard work of cutting to size, some were converted into stool, bench, chest...
i ve made one small workbench which i ve used heavily with lots of hammering and sawing process. sometime i stand on it to reach for thing. it is still very sturdy. and all it cost me are the screws that i purchase- other materials were $0.
look around. wish you all the best!
C