I have called a bunch of carpenters but there aren't many, and the ones I got ahold of don't do it.
Is there anything else I should look up in yellow pages....?
Thanks.
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I have called a bunch of carpenters but there aren't many, and the ones I got ahold of don't do it.
Is there anything else I should look up in yellow pages....?
Thanks.
Do you want someone to make them or someone to install them
Where in australia?
Make and install.
NT.
your looking at two different trades, wood machinest makes them and a scond fix carpenter installs them
I've got a mate who will machine a lot of the old profiles and install but your location is a little vague, I doubt you are in Hobart.
Kev M
Why would you pay someone to make them ? That would cost a bit i imagine.
Why not buy them made and cut them yourself or get a carpenter to install for you ?
not many shops in Central Oz NT.
A cabinet maker might be able to run the arc if he has a spindle moulder.
Makka,
are you after a specific profile or trying to match an existing, uncommon skirting? Possibly you're after skirting run in a different species? Most skirting is bought "off the shelf" (so to speak) either finger jointed pine in 5.2 M lengths in bullnose or colonial for painted finish, or in whatever's common in your region in random lengths for clear finish. Do you have a local(ish) supplier at all? Give us some more details and collectively I'm sure we can help you.
Mick
Ah, how exactly are you being rude? :? I am taking this as a question.
I have about 10 listings under Carpenters. I said that some have said they 'don't do it'; I didn't say that they don't have the ability to do it. Some work on large contract job sites. Others specialise in particular areas, such as cabinets. The rest I haven't being able to get through to.
I didn't go into detail about why they can't/won't/don't do it, because I didn't think it was relevant. All I wanted to know is if there are any other areas I should look for in the phone book to find someone who does this.
Hey Gumby. Good point. I was going to ask how much it costs to get this done. It's a last min decision to put them in. I can and probably will do it. I will get the pre-shaped wood from a hardware store (or wherever it is) and paint it. My mate can help me put it in.
I kind of imagined that there was a store with a variety of skirting boards and you could pick the style and colour you wanted and they take care of it.
I really didn't think it would cost that much. But really I think it is the lazy part of me coming through.:rolleyes:
I am not matching any existing skirting. I did want to have a look at the styles available, but at this stage colour is really as far as specifics go.
I have decided to buy it off the shelf and paint/install myself. Now, I just need to find a supplier. I called the hardware store, and they said that they don't have many. Didn't sound too promising but there are other hardware stores to look at.
I don't believe we have a local supplier. Not that I know of, other than the hardware store. I didn't get a chance today, but I will look into it tomorrow.
Thanks for your help :D
I just replaced all the skirting baords in my house. I ended up buying pre-primed MDF skirts from bunnings. Installing is pretty easy - but can be a little fiddly as you try and get the right length and tight mitres on outside corners.
Big hint would be to paint them before installing. Cut, then dry fit, then paint then install. I wish I painted before I installed, but my wife assured me that we would be hiring painters. Now it appears that I am the hired painter...
Trav
Try "Home Maintence and Repairs" in the Yellow Pages
It doesn't take that long if you're getting your square dressed cheaper, but is it that much cheaper or are you just giving the client more options?
I made my own profile similar to a colonial mould with my power saw ages ago. That was before I had a router, and I had the material out of a demolition I did anyway so it cost me nothing but a bit of juice to run the saw and planer.
Of course if you're starting with a tree from your backyard and a chainsaw mill then you'd save heaps. :wink:
So, I gave up finding someone to do it for me, and took all ya'lls advice to do it myself.
Bought the skirting boards today...
Got 27m (5 lengths). Plus the guy threw in an extra one:U
MDF primed and ready to paint, cut and install.
Just need to find an appropriate cutting tool and I am on my way.
Any tips for cutting nice fitting corners?
:coffee:
Use a fine tooth blade when makeing cuts. This will give you a better finish
Makka619,
If the skirting has a shape to it, ie colonial etc, then you scribe the joints you DON'T mitre them. This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting and on the line created by this cut you use a coping saw and follow the profile created slightly under cutting in the process, this will produce a very neat tight joint.
The first board to be installed is the one you see as you first enter the room. The board has just square cut ends. Then you scribe the adjacent boards into this one and so on.
Hope this helps. I'm sure someone will come up with a sketch or picture.
Thanks for the replies.
I looked up all the terms so I could understand the reply better. Anyway, it's not colonial, it is more like a bullnose, but instead of being rounded off at the top, it is a flat 45 degree angle. If that makes sense.
Just so were on the same page, this is scribe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3..._81/scribe.jpg
http://www.sheridan-uk.com/wood/images/join3.jpg
and this is mitre
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r_81/mitre.jpg
http://www.sheridan-uk.com/wood/images/join3.jpg
I looked up the terms and thats what I got. But from reading your reply (This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting) it sounds as though you are saying that they are opposite (colonial is a 45 degree angle, mitre is flat cut.)
I am probably misinterpreting your post but I just wanted to clear this up. Are you saying that I don't do 45 degree cuts as in the pic of the Mitre for each one but straight cuts or the other way around.
Yes, I am confusing you and myself both. :-
I looked up the terms and thats what I got. But from reading your reply (This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting)
:-[/quote]
Seems your on the right track. I just did a search for "Mitre Scribing" on this site which came up with a few threads, some of the threads had useful links.
Otherewise just mitre your joints and play around with them until they fit or fill em with putty.
Macca, I just went through installing Skirting boards myself. I read all of the posts on here about "scribing" etc, and it confused and scared me both at the same time. My wife selected the fanciest colonial pattern, and I think it is 190 mm high. All I did was use an electric compound mitre saw and cut them both on 45 degree angles, then whacked them together :) With a SMALL amount of no more gaps, then painted over, they have come up great (even if I do say so myself :D )
We primed ours before installing them, then painted them with the top coat once installed as I had to putty up the nail holes, then sand them smooth etc.
The other tricky part to this will be to see whether your room corners are square. If not it makes a big difference. I was lucky that I had rebuilt 2 of the walls so was fairly happy with the rooms squareness, if that is a word :p
Alex
It's not that hard scribing. AFAIC it's quicker, easier, and gives you a perfect joint, because you don't have to be as accurate with your measurements. There's a knack to holding the coping saw so you undercut a bit and leave a slightly acute angle at the face. It ends up nice and tight when you push it against the piece that you're working to.
Have a look at this. I found it doing a search of this site, and it came from here.
Don't use the tracing method on page three. I'd use the mitre cut method on page four. I'd cut it from the top and not the bottom. I'd use a handsaw for the straight part. Undercut it a bit so theirs a slight acute angle at the front edge. When you push it hard against the abutting piece it should be nice and tight. But before you cut it, check that the piece that you're butting against is square from the floor. If it's not you can adjust your mitre cut to suit by checking the angle with a bevel.
undercut means to do the cut at slightly under 90 degrees.It makes for a tighter joint because only the front edge will touch the other skirt.
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