Still standing and rock solid after three months so I guess it's safe to post the pics now. Pretty pleased with the results thank you very much!
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Still standing and rock solid after three months so I guess it's safe to post the pics now. Pretty pleased with the results thank you very much!
Looks nice, mate :)
Very nice.
What decking timber and oil did you use?
Well done boddy. It looks great.
:cool: ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wongo
:D
But he is Triton owner. :p
Seriously you did a great job.
Good job toddles. First rate, mate. :) Nice finish.
Very sleek. Where's the barbie?
the finish looks perfect! how did you achieve that?
Hey toddles,
How's going. Your deck looks awesome. I'm thinking of undertaking a similar project, except mine is a brick veneer house, but i guess the house is wood anyway.
The similarity is that mine will be close to ground also (0 clearance).
How did you build it? Did you lay a concrete base, and used treated kiln dried hardwood on HD joists side nailed to battens which bolt onto slab? (what a mouthful)
And did you have any termite protection at the external walls of the house where the deck meets the house?
Thanks: Batu & Cabot's Natural Decking OilQuote:
Originally Posted by Vernonv
cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by DFA
The joists are treated pine at 45mm intervals. The ledger is a length of the same bolted onto the the house wall with big ramset wall bolts and a couple of stainless steel washers between the timber and the wall to avoid rot. The joists are hung with galvanised joist hangers. The bulk of the area under the deck was paved (see photos) but sloped so we cut lengths of treated pine into short legs to support the deck with galvanised coach bolts screwed in as feet to provide clearance off the paving - a very effective, adaptable and cheap option. EVERTHING is screwed rather than nailed to avoid nail popping in the dry summer, wet winter Perth climate and we used decent quality non-corrosive decking screws - that took forever but it's worth it. Decking timber is Batu with Cabot's Natural Decking Oil brushed on in two coats. House is double brick so no need for termite protection beyond the treated frame (we hope).
How much of the deck gets full exposure to sun & rain? It's not clear fromQuote:
Originally Posted by toddles
your pics - looks like part of the deck is sheltered under the eaves?
The reason I ask is that retaining a good appearance after only 3 months
is easy - but I wonder what it will look like after (say) 12 months with only
the 2 coats of decking oil. My neighbours did a deck in blackbutt, with
2 coats of Cabots natural, but it quickly became very grey and old-looking
within 6-9 months. They've now applied a darker oil to camouflage it.
I'd be interested to hear later how yours performs over time.
Cheers.
Strangerep - it's half fully sheltered, half totally open. As per the instructions on the can my MIL (deck at her house) has applied the 3 monthly recoating and the deck still looks A1. Regularly reoiling as necessary is an important part of deck maintenece if you're going to avoid you're neighbours problems I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by strangerep
Hi Toddles, great looking deck.
I am looking at building an almost identical deck low to the ground. Max 260mm on the right, sloping up to 150mm on the left hand side.
The Deck will be 3.8m x 5.8m in size.
As I have never built a deck before, would you be able to provide an illustration or photos of the deck in the construction phase. I am having difficulty visualising the steps as there are many methods to use.
Regards
Pat
It would be a wise investment to get a copy of "The Australian Decks &Quote:
Originally Posted by swazee
Pergolas Construction Manual" by Allan Staines. (Pinedale Press,
ISBN 1 875217 10 X).
Quote:
Originally Posted by strangerep
Fully agree - it's a very good reference book.
As an aside, take a look at my deck as it progresses at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdk/set...7594450653234/
Yes, yes, it's built to hold an elephant, but I don't want it falling down now do I? :)
Richard
Good work with your deck...looks great.
How much do you think it will cost all up and what timber did you use throughout??
I noticed the cross support underneath. Was this necessary or just to reduce your public liability insurance? :U
Regards
Pat
Thanks Pat!Quote:
Originally Posted by swazee
Cost - about $1000 on timber so far, $200 concrete, $300-ish on other hardware. I've just ordered the Hardipanel (15mm 2700x1200) - 4 sheets for $680. So I've spent a couple of grand so far. I reckon all up I should get away with $5000 for the whole thing (famous last words!).
Timber is mostly treated pine (H4 posts, H3 joists and bracing). I've made sure I paint all bare surfaces, even though the deck will be waterproofed. Bearers are F11 hardwood - unsure about exactly what variety. All I'm sure is the bloody things are heavy and hurt when they slip off the posts onto your shin (ouch!)
The cross support is just to make sure the thing doesn't move - I'll be putting a 30mm re-inforced mortar bed on top of the hardipanel so I can tile the deck - worked out it'll be > 1 ton of load with hardipanel + mortar, so I'm not taking any chances with movement! I probably could have got away with only a couple of cross supports, but I'm a sucker for punishment :P
--RK