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Hi All,
I'm building a workbench from Aus Woodsmith and am just wondering what you might think would be the best finish for the structure and the top.
The top will be made from mdf, so I'm a bit unsure about what to use.
I normally finish my projects in intergrain tung oil, but I just don't know for this project.
My other fear is that the mdf will expand with the oil.
I recently finished mine with clear poly - cheap, easy and resistent to glue; and also easy to recoat.
Hi ranger
I have used danish oil on my mdf top and it stands up pretty well.
My next top though I will use a thin sheet of masonite on top of the mdf as a sacrificial piece that is a little stronger than mdf and doesnt need finishing.
Which bench did you build?
cheers
dazzler
I agree with dazzler (next top). Sacrificial masonite also recommended by Nawm, and Nawm is occasionally right. When it gets too beat up fo accurate layout work, just replace it.
It's a workbench, not a dining table. If the finish is too good, you'll be hesitant about really using it for work.
Joe
Its the one out of edition 19. I liked the fact you could add storage to it. I have just started, so I'm open to ideas.Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzler
I like the idea of the masonite on top
Does this mean the red gum I used is overkill???
Only reason I used that was because I had plenty 6 inch x 2 inch red gum slabs laying around and I thought what the hell. Then again I dont abuse the workbench too much.
Pete
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe greiner
Whats nawm?
So how thick the masonite? The plans use 2 sheets of 18 mm mdf. Do you think I should use one 18mm and one smaller to compensate for the masonite. Or maybe just make the aprons a little bigger?Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzler
I keep adding to the finish on my bench.
Shellac, paint, turps, metho, poly Urethane, coffee, beer.
It's all adding to the hardness and longevity of the surface. :)
Stick with the two sheets of mdf and add the thinnest masonite (3mm :confused: ). If the plans are the ones that have a timber edging around it just make it 3mm proud of the top, make the back and one side removable so you can place the new piece on top and then secure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
cheers:confused:
Norm Abrams, host of The New Yankee Workshop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
If not yet apparent, Norm has a distinctive New England accent. "Nawm" is sometimes also spelled "Nahm."
Joe
Can I come over and have a bench tasting session ... hic! :) I've always wanted to hit the turps:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
Doughboy,
not overkill - but it does make you a bastard in the eyes of all the blokes with mdf tops!
:D
I would go with the 4.8mm for your topQuote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
I have just finished my workbench top out of the same issue of Woodsmith that you are reffering to. I made it exactly to the dimensions in the issue but when i added the spline to fit the aprons took the 4.8mm(i think) masonite into account for a flush top. Used 2 full sheets of 18mm MDF glued together aswell as the extra pieces of MDF underneath. Used Vic Ash for the aprons and as Dazzler mentioned left the front removable to change the masonite if required. Haven't fitted the vice or drilled the dog holes as yet.
Now i need to make the framework. Done the legs and some of the rails.
Please ignore the frame work of the bench in the above attachment. That is my old bench frame being used with the new top while i make the new frame to suit. New frame will be made as per Woodsmith plans with the storage draws etc... added later.
Cheers. Steven.
Thanks Guys for the advice. The top will be a little while away yet as I'm working on the legs at the moment.
With regards to the masonite, how do I "secure" it to the bench? does it just sit on top, or is it glued, nailed or what. I can't quite picture this.
The masonite on my top is held on with small nails around the edges. If you glue it on you wont get it off when it needs replacing.
With the masonite held in by the aprons, it shouldn't move but the sheet i had was not as flat as i would have liked so i used nails. If you get a sheet thats flat, you may not need nails.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Steven.
I'd vote for the nails anyway. As soon as you spill something, it'll try to bow from moisture absorption; best to have it locked down. Don't know if there's a special name for them, but I've used (sort of) box nails about 12mm long with head about 3mm diameter. When time to replace, just dig in and pull: don't need to worry about beating up, because it's already beat up or you wouldn't be replacing it.
Joe
Thanks Guys,
I'll keep you posted.
- Argy
Yep, i used nails same as joe has suggested.
I also used a nail punch to tap them flat with the surface so they don't sit proud and catch or damage anything ontop.
Steven.:)