I'm stuck (haven't even started).

Hi boys,
Long time reader, first time poster.

Project: total backyard make over. Retaining wall - 1st step.
The wall is 11 m long and 0.5m high.

Considering sleepers. Pine or red gum. I won't be living in here for longer than 2-3 years though I think, so the argument they'll rot in 10 years - let them.

Can they be made to look modern? Polished or painted? Stained somehow? Pine Sleepers - too plain. I like the red gum ones - but even when brand new they are already all cracked. Anything? :confused:

I don't want to make my first post long, so, I'll open another thread for more questions. :)

Thnaks.

in a year the redgum will go grey.

Paint seems to be the only solution but maybe the online brains trust can come up with something

I used treated pine sleepers for my garden make over. which is nearly finished. ( Hooray smilie.)

They are easier to cut, nail or drill and when painted blend in to the background rather then stand out.

I painted mine with the same fence paint from Bunnings as I painted the fence. Two coats are needed to get the same coverage as the fence.

BTW treated pine sleepers will last a lot longer then 10 years.:D


Peter.

Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

Much easier and nicer to look at.


Peter.

Another thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495

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Originally Posted by Sturdee

Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

Much easier and nicer to look at.

Peter.

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Interesting idea, but.. no space. This is a unit, L shape backyard and part of 'L' is close to the house, 2.3 meters from the fence to the wall of the dwelling.
This retaining wall is holdig up that fence. But appr. 6 meters of this wall are visible from the main backyard entrance, so has to look nice.

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Originally Posted by JDub

Another good thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495

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And why do you think I am considering pine sleepers again and started this thread? :) I saw your posts in that forum. Looks great. In your project.
Won't be as nice in mine - the wall IS in a way kind of a feature wall - small backyard. That's why I really want to make them look different.

Treated Pine ...Reasons to be cheerful:-
1. Can get them 75mm thick so your circular saw will cut through them in one go instead of having to do 2 cuts.
2. Have you picked up a 200 x 100 HW sleeper by yourself?
3. They are guaranteed 40 years... new HW you may get 5 if your lucky.
4. No need to predrill your spikes
5. You can stain them to look like anything you want.

You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind. Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind.

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I haven't! And JDub's pics made me think that pine sleepers can be installed nicely and look great!

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.

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I am sorry I came across this way. Never attempted to belittle anyone here. Sorry.

In fact, this lunch break I went to 2 timber shops. Got 2 quotes for 11x3 = 33 meters of slepers plus galvinezed H and C columns. $490 in one place and $560 other.
And it's 75mm one. @$7 per l/m. Is this right price.
The posts are $35 meter.

Did I apologize?

Likewise Sorry LeoAu, I have obviously misread your response.
My apologies.

My Calcs
Assuming a straight wall no steps using 75 x 150 sleepers, av. retail cost
11m / 2.4 = 5 sleepers long
0.5m / .150 = 4 ie 3 upright + 1 capping =20 sleepers @ $16 = $320.00
If you go 500 in ground you need 6 posts of 1m posts @$35 = $210
6 bags of concrete mix = $70

Total $590 or $107/sq.m Plus labour, deliver, GST.

PS Steel uprights on such a low wall is pobably an overkill using sleepers would save $160 bringing the cost of the wall to $78/sq.m

Steel uprights is an overkill? :( But I liked them so much in JDub's pics. :(

Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
Thanks for your input!

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Originally Posted by LeoAU

Steel uprights is an overkill? :( But I liked them so much in JDub's pics. :(

Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
Thanks for your input!

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If you can afford the steel don't let me hold you back.
Yeh the top course is layed flat with an overhang at the front - screw them with bugle heads or just use deck spikes or 150mm gal nails.

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Originally Posted by LeoAU

Steel uprights is an overkill? :( But I liked them so much in JDub's pics. :(

!

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Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

Joel

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Originally Posted by JDub

Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

Joel

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Pictures, pictures, pictures please!! :)

Here's one I prepared earlier.... (the one with steel posts)

The edge capping is 140x25mm recovered ironbark flooring (not finished as yet - will finish with some cabots exterior clear or the like). It makes a nice seat or rest. I simply used bugle head screws and went one screw centre of board / centre of sleeper / centre of bay. So long as your top row of sleepers is cut to fit tight (if using steel) or otherwise well secured this method is solid, neat and works well. If you don;t want a screw head showing you could use a battern along the rear of the wall and secure from below, but it's more work, more material.

To get neat joins on the edge capping I use a straight halving joint, that way if one adjoining board sits higher it can be pulled down by the mating board (not real clear in the pic's, but very simple). I might put some wax on the screw heads and then cover in black tinted builders bog one day, but they look ok as is for now.

A few other comments on construction are linked in one of the posts above. I originally had the plan of covering the bottom wall in mini-orb (top will evenually be obscured by vines, herbs, chillies and other plants), but have since come to my senses and realised it's only a wall.....

Eastie, like the ironbark. Very neat.
I still like the overhang look though, must be a hangover from the days using the sleeper posts out front

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Originally Posted by LeoAU

Pictures, pictures, pictures please!! :)

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Sorry it took so long to get the pics up.....

From my 'Shed WIP' thread:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...665#post421665


http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...2&d=1165227463

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...4&d=1165227463

The wellies look a bit too big for that young labourer. Also the pink jumpsuit isn't exactly regulation safety wear.

Hey Jdub, what did you paint the new retaining wall with, and why?

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Originally Posted by sammy_h

Hey Jdub, what did you paint the new retaining wall with, and why?

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Wattyl Solaguard.

Why?
Painted it exactly the same colour the new shed will be (colorbond Dune), to match in (SWMBO wishes ;))
Also to give added protection to the timber from moisture and sun (esp for the top of the posts).....

Not everyones cup o tea I know, but I reckon it looks ok.

Cheers
Joel

Thanks Joel,
TThis is what's gonnabe be erected on my backsyard in a couple of days. Only 3 sleepers high. And I'll use some stainer, not paint.

Concrete for the posts - did you use the instant one, ie the one that get it into the hole and then add water?

Is there any advantages in using sleepers as posts?

This might interest you..... rapid set thread:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=41758

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Originally Posted by LeoAU

Is there any advantages in using sleepers as posts?

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As opposed to what?

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Originally Posted by JDub

As opposed to what?

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To using posts. The 100x100 ones.

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Originally Posted by LeoAU

To using posts. The 100x100 ones.

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They are 200 wide, plenty of room to bolt into two lengths....... plus I think you will find the normal square treated pine posts are 90 x 90

Example circled in pic attached.

They look better too IMO.

aha, so you bolt 2 sleepers to one post (made out of a sleeper). So, there is 100 mm area at the end of a sleeper to bolt it to the upright.

Since I will be using at least one more upright at the back of the wall every 2.4 meters it should be all right, right?

Hi Joel,

How did you paint your sleepers? The question is rather how you prepared them - did you dry them up for a period of time?
Bunnings girl told me I have to leave it out for 6-8 weeks (!) before staining it. Another Bunnings wiz told me a weekend of 39 degrees is enough. Someone suggested to stain it first then build the wall, others install them and only then paint.

:confused:

I think I left them about 2-3 weeks before painting...... I imagine painting and staining are different ball games though. It would also depend on how 'wet/green' the sleepers were before hand.

Others here with more experience/knowledge than me may be able to comment.

Joel

Hey Joel,

one more quostion - did you install the drainage pipe behind the waal? You know the pipe with holes in it? Is it needed for a wall like yours - 2 sleepers high or mine - 3?

Yes I used it, and doubled over black builders plastic as well... read easties thread I linked to on page one of this thread

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Originally Posted by JDub

Yes I used it, and doubled over black builders plastic as well... read easties thread I linked to on page one of this thread

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You mean one plastic right against the wall and under the pipe, and the other over the pipe? I did read the article but didn't get this bit.

I've read somewhere to not to install plastic as the moisture gets inbetween the plastic and the wall, stays there and constantly damages the timber.

Eastie mentioned in his 'article' that this applies to 'typical hard to dig soils'. I've got really sandy stuff here - does it apply 100% to me as well?