Wood Filler

Although I have performed a Search of the BB already for Wood Fillers, I'm not sure I have the answer I want.
My current project is the construction of a second refectory table, having already completed one. I have been able to source some Tas.Oak ( 30mm thick) floor boards, originally from Kinnear's Rope Works. Being floorboards of that tickness, the nail holes are substantial.
The table is to be "Skip Dressed", ie, distress marks in the timber are left as a feature.
BUT, I am looking for a good wood filler, that can be sanded, stained, then French Polished.
Currently, I am using Timber Mate, described as a Water Based wood filler , with reasonable results.
If any oyf you have some suggestions, I would appreciate your advice.
Mick

You already using what is arguably the best...... TIMBERMATE! Bloody marvelous stuff. Don't look any further, it can coloured with any almost any pigment, and with any water based dye or stain, when it is still putt (including food dyes and even beetroot juice) and will accept pretty well any type stain when dry. You can use it as a putty, for stopping holes and as a woodgrain filler.

Just like U-Beaut Polishes, Timbermate is another, fantastic, all Australian product that really works! One of a very few Aussie owned invented and manufactured finishing products.

Cheers - Neil.https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif

Ive just tried it on a small area and found it comes out quite pink, i was hoping after staining it would cover it but its still very noticeable, guess im doin something not quite right???

Try another colour or use neutral, there are a variety of colours. Personally I prefer the neutral or pine and then colour it myself.

The precoloured ones are kind of, almost, nothing like the colour of the wood. However they will give you a start and may colour to the correct final shade a little easier than starting from scratch. You will most likely find that deep red colours will dry to pink. Dark brown to a washed out light brown and so on.

Most precoloured filler will never match the timber you are using. Your chances of winning lotto are better than getting an exact match. It is up to you to make it match. This is why the cabinet makers used to make the furniture and finishers did the finishing. As a rule it isn't just a case of fill it up stain it and slap on a coat of something. In most instances it's just a tad more complicated than that to get a good professional looking finish on the work.

Oh, by the way most other fillers will go really dark when stained over after they are dry. Timbermate won't. This makes it easier for you to match to the colour of the original wood than other fillers.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers - Neil. :)

PS Try putting a bit of metho over the filled and sanded section to see if it darkens at all when wet. If it does then this will be the colour it will go when you apply the shellac. Use Meths and not water.

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Originally posted by Neil
You already using what is arguably the best...... TIMBERMATE! .

Just like U-Beaut Polishes, Timbermate is another, fantastic, all Australian product that really works! One of a very few Aussie owned invented and manufactured finishing products.

Cheers - Neil.https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif

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Neil... No Blatant advertising in any other forums than those listed ????:D
Kev

He does cause he can. :D

So where's the blatant advertising. I don't make Timbermate nor do I sell it. Timbermate is just a bloody good Aussie product.

As for the U-Beaut comment. Well, that was just a statement of fact, not an advert. At least I'm praizing an Aussie product and not taking the out of it like some do.https://www.ubeaut.biz/pissright.gif Hehehehe

Cheers - Neil.;)

Neil, any tips on matching the filler to the stained timber, or is it a trial-and-error process of making batches of stained filler and filling a hole in a stained sample piece of timber.

How do I do this and ensure I can repeat the recipe?

Cheers, memoryman.

Aha! Memoryman you have jogged mine!!!

Off to the blu-tac removal thread to solve the problem!

Cheers,

P

Bitingmidge, unless you are referring me to a more relevant thread ... I'll just sit... :)

What I'm referring to is some wisdom about a tinting *systems* approach, because there is a lot of woodwoork in my house that needs fixing, and once I get this right, except for tuning for various wood species ...

Cheers, MemoryMan

Sorry, it was just that when you posted to this thread the filler that I couldn't remember the name of in another thread bobbed right up!

TIMBERMATE!

cheers,

P ;)

I disagree. I've used timbermate and don't like it. At all. Why use putty when you can mix a two part epoxy resin, colour it exactly the same as the wood (using brickies oxides sold at any hardware) and achieve something that can be worked well into any holes, cracks, splits etc, is VERY hard, sands beautifully, accepts all finishes, etc, etc. There's also a great quick-fix Sellys product called "Plastibond" for last minute patch-up jobs if you missed something (right before you spray!) - which also takes oxides for colouring. And goes off rock hard in 20 minutes. Sands beautifully. Works well under all finshes. There are alternatives to putty!

Interesting, as I have a full range of coloured oxides lying around as a result of trying to patch some pavers around a pool. Bears thinking about, and I may try an experiment along your lines tomorrow. Will report back, cheers for the info, MemoryMan.

You'll likely need to mix one or more oxides in with the resin to achieve the exact colour you're after. Although, for gum veins, I recommend straight black. Or clear resin if it's REALLY a big open vein. Looks interesting to see into the wood. If it's old nail holes, try to get close to the natural wood colour. Dark woods (jarrah, etc) require a red / black mix. Lighter woods need yellows or sandstone. You need to experiment to get the right colour.

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Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead

You'll likely need to mix one or more oxides in with the resin to achieve the exact colour you're after. Although, for gum veins, I recommend straight black. Or clear resin if it's REALLY a big open vein. Looks interesting to see into the wood. If it's old nail holes, try to get close to the natural wood colour. Dark woods (jarrah, etc) require a red / black mix. Lighter woods need yellows or sandstone. You need to experiment to get the right colour.

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what sort of clear resins do you recommend? i am making a dining table, which has beautiful almost burl like black holes in the top (you probably know what it is actually called), AND i want to do exactly as you say, fill it with a clear resin like glass. BUT i'm not too sure on any brands or websites.

If you know of any that would be a great help. Cheeers :2tsup:

Sorry but this is a very old thread with the last post in 2005 and that poster hasn't been on since 2008 so don't expect a reply from him.

Maybe a new thread with your specific question might get a better response.


Peter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AldoDezani

what sort of clear resins do you recommend? i am making a dining table, which has beautiful almost burl like black holes in the top (you probably know what it is actually called), AND i want to do exactly as you say, fill it with a clear resin like glass. BUT i'm not too sure on any brands or websites.

If you know of any that would be a great help. Cheeers :2tsup:

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All the answers are within the forums :karate:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/fil...y-resin-65548/

Also in this next link you'll find contact info for a shop that stocks something like what you're after:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/liq...-resin-111735/

Bunnings sell everything you'll need but you may need to ask one of the woodworkers for a hand, a nice bloke in my local bunnings actually showed me a demo which was great. If you go in midweek they have a lot more time to help, I go in on a Wednesday if I know I need something explained

i use west systems find it good but i think most fibeglass resins do the job i like west systems because of the pumps to give the right ratio