what finish burl walnut in car.

Hi one & all,
I am the unfortunate owner of an oldish Range Rover ( if you have ever owned one you will be able to commiserate)
anyway the burl walnut trim has cracked in a few places - the finish not the timber. so...
1. What finish was originally used. Its hard, clear and lifts free of the timber where the surface has cracked? I'm sorry timber finishes is not my field:o
2. what is the best way to remove the old finish?
3. What is the best, no easiest way to present a new finish accepting the fact that the car probably doesnt have that many years left in it and I may be forced to upgrade:( (SHMBO is an economic rationalist)

The old Rangy is a great car to drive, horrible to own.
HEY CAN I SELL A RANGY ON THIS SITE? No better not go there.;)

I put redgum burl in my 4WD, but maybe I over did it :D

Hi TEEJAY,
first I couldn't enlarge your photo so I went to another thread to see if it wasnt me, came back and the photos gone.
Has it been censored?? Please mate nothing rude I'm married.:D :p

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Hi TEEJAY,
first I couldn't enlarge your photo so I went to another thread to see if it wasnt me, came back and the photos gone.
Has it been censored?? Please mate nothing rude I'm married.:D :p

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Sorry had to reload it so you could enlarge the image :o

Mate I like it.
Redgum burl boot liner... tough but presentable.

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

1. What finish was originally used. Its hard, clear and lifts free of the timber where the surface has cracked? I'm sorry timber finishes is not my field:o

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Sounds like a varnish to me. Possibly a PolyU, but given the age (when quality still meant something) maybe a varnish with a UV inhibitor, something like a spar varnish. (As used on marine timberwork.)

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2. what is the best way to remove the old finish?

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I'd use a scraper and sand through the grits. There are strippers available, but they would probably make a pretty ugly mess of anything that's not wood. ie. paint, plastic, vinyl... :rolleyes:

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3. What is the best, no easiest way to present a new finish accepting the fact that the car probably doesnt have that many years left in it and I may be forced to upgrade:( (SHMBO is an economic rationalist)

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Spar varnish. Either mask out and spray, or apply by brush. As with any finish, the more coats applied (with a light sand between) the better the result. How lazy do you want to be? :confused:

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HEY CAN I SELL A RANGY ON THIS SITE? No better not go there. ;)

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How much timber can it transport? ;):D

Thanks Skew,
Thats answered the question(s).

Dont worry I will remove the trims before getting stuck into it.:)

The doors and console are easy enough, the dash is a bit of a pain as I will have too drive around for a while without it. Well knowing how long it takes me to finish anything it may be quite a while.:o

Thanks for the advise.
PS has anyone (box makers, pen turners) given scrap yards a thought as to a source of nice timber.

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Dont worry I will remove the trims before getting stuck into it.:)

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And here I was thinking you wanted to do it the "quick'n'easy" way. ;)

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PS has anyone (box makers) given scrap yards a thought as to a source of nice timber.

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I'm hardly a box maker, but that's a big 10-4 good buddy. I'm not proud. :rolleyes:

[quote=Skew ChiDAMN!!;373237]And here I was thinking you wanted to do it the "quick'n'easy" way. ;)

Quick and easy yes, rough as guts no:p I could just imagine stripping/sanding/ finishing inside the car!:D Dont think the leather would appreciate it much (or my back!)

The burl walnut is only a thin veneer. Be very careful sanding it if you rub through you will hit the backing timber and there will be a marked difference in the timber from the walnut.

What do you call oldish? Most of these vehicles are imported and the clear used on them was only suitable for British weather. (weak ultra violet light)

Its probably been refinished here by someone. If you didn't buy the vehicle new that is a posibility. Usually a panel beater would get the job and the painter would usually finish in clear 2 pack or acrylic lacquer.

Try rubbing on some acrylic lacquer thinner if its acrylic lacquer it will soften if it doesn't its probably 2 pack enamel. If its acrylic lacquer you can wash the clear off with the thinner and a rag. You can tell by rubbing the finsihes dry and smelling the dry dust but you need to know what the smell is, so unless you have access to a spray painter this is not an option.

Also check that all the bits are actually timber some could be plastic. Especially if the shape is any more than a slight curve as the veneer can only be pushed so far.

If the vehicle is out in the sunlight a lot and the bits cop a lot of direct sun you will need a suitable clear Both those I mentioned work. Any hardware home type clear (estapol etc will be a waste of time.)

Paint stripper works the best to remove the old finish but you must take the bits out (which makes the whole execise so much easier anyway).

Apply a bit of stripper to an area (experiment first on a section which is least noticable) and see how long it takes to soften.

Most times it bubbles up in minutes soon as its loose clean it of carefully. You can use a scraper but the best way is to use a damp cloth to wipe it away. This will avoid damaging the veneer and neutralise the stripper. Then wash it well with water to make sure its clean and stripper free.

Don't leave it to soak as the stripper will penetrate through to the venner and then down to the glue holding it on. Usually the stripper bubbles up the finish and it pulls away from the walnut and thats the time to clean it off.

This should get rid of most of the old finish then carefully sand the walnut.

If you are unsure about stripping with paint stripper only sand but it is a lot easier and less likely to cause a drama. Trouble with sanding is that if the clear is polyurethane its a lot harder than the wood and you can easily sand through the soft timber trying to remove the hard clear.

Thanks Durwood,
The cars a 92 Vogue SE I've had it apart many many times as any Rangy owner will understand. The timber is SOLID walnut I'll have you know!
Veneer how dare you!:p :D
I think I will use the Citrus flavoured Flood Co. stripper that also has the neutraliser wash as it will be less work than sanding and the dash piece due to its shape is a bit fragile so the less handling the better.. I have used this stripper on Euc. and think its very good. I will keep my eye on the walnut (test patch etc)
If anyone has any problems with the citrus stripper let me know.
Thanks for all the imput.
EDIT Durwood now you have me doubting myself and have to remove a trim and check if you are right about the veneer. I'll eat my words if your right. Have to wait till the weekend tho.
Cheers

I would be surprised if its solid, all the Rolls Royces, Jaguars, Rovers etc Iv'e evr done were all veneer.

The burl Walnut comes from tthe root of the tree and is not only expensive but highly unstable as a block of wood even as a veneer its really bumpy a sheet about 1mm thick sits up over 8-10 mmm before its glued and pressed flat.

Hi Durwood,
can you tell me where to get hold of some burr veneer - I'm re-furbishing a Jag dash and the original veneer came off with the lacquer. The dash is about 140cm X 20cm flat not curved. (a 1977 series 2 XJ6)

Sorry can't help you, the place I got some last (20 years ago) has long since closed.

I notice that there is a thread on the bottom where "carz" asked the question last year. Maybe you can email him he probably has found someone.

Two thoughts though:

Try the Jaguar, Rover or some of the other pommie car Owners clubs. there members would have struck the same problem.

Look around at some of the second hand furnature places (like the salvation army) I have seen bedroom furnature, wardrobes etc covered in burl warnut veneer at numerous times. It was really fasionable in the 1960's.

You have already worked out how to remove the veneer by the sounds of it.

Question, Why can't you just clean it up and re apply it?

Even if it busted up like a jig saw you should be able to glue it down again.

Thanks Durwood - Chunks of the Veneer were already missing when I got the dash, I stripped off the rest. I see it for sale on e-bay in England, I guess if I can't find any locally, I'll get it there. I think carz actually wanted plastic immitation wood

After confirming my trim is also veneer and from what you sau about thickness Durwood I think it might be easier to live with the cracked varnish rather than attempt restoration.

jag nut,

I presume you have already tried the exotic wood sellers in Sydney. If not then start with Trend timbers- 02 4577 5277 They are out near Windsor. They may not stock it but would probably point you in the right direction.

I'm not so sure carz wanted plastic trim, he may have thought what he had was such but may not have been.

Also the makers of the iron on veneer available at Bunnings (consolidated edgings) may be worth a call. They probably don't stock it but would be in the know.

Don't throw away the bits of veneer if you still have them. The veneer is so rough that when its glued flat there can be big gaps which the old bits will come in handy to fill.

Bleedin Thumb.

Don't be so quick to give up, its not that hard! Have a crack at it. If you are really worried get a bit from a wreck or a bit of furnature and experiment. The bits would be as bad as yours and you should not have to pay much, if you do stuff it up, No harm done but if you take it easy it will work no problem. The fact its cracked already means its going to be easy to get the stripper to soften the clear.

Iv'e had 16 year old apprentices do it, if they can do so when they have no interest and they don't own the vehicle then you should have no hassle doing your own pride and Joy.

hi, Bleeding Thumb, I have a Triumph with wood trim, what I did was rub them back lightly and use Birchwood Caseys Gun Stock oil and build up the coats. It was reccomended to apply a finishing coat of the birchwood finishing wax, but I didnt get around to that. I would have done the timberwork between '98 and 2000/01 and its holding up ok (little bit of wear on the drivers side door where my arm rests) If it starts to wear a bit, I just rub back lightly with steel wool and reapply the oil. Not sure if it is recommended for this type of application, but have you seen the finish on some gun stocks, nice as, even with the wear they take