Finishin the table off??

Okay so finally Im at that stage where I must consider what to finish the table top with... I intend to varnish the legs feet and cleats the top is a different kettle of fish

I initially thought of using that 2 part poly stuff (you know the one Carbetex sells that supposedly gives the appearance of 50coats of varnish?) but am now considering other options

1) years back I made another Jarrah table and after masses of trouble with Wattyl varnish bubbling and totally stuffing it up and days spent sanding it back to bare wood... I used a bottle of that Marveer stuff... just bunged about 1/4 the bottle on spread it around and let it sit for a few hours polished it in then poured another 1/4 bottle on waited for a few hours polished did this till the bottle was empty... result spectacular! of course one had to then continue using Marveer ever 6 months or so to keep the top "spectacular" one slip and man that stuff soaked in! :eek: So I could use a bottle or two of Marveer

2) ??????

I just have a major hessitation in doing the top with its stunning looks with varnish.... once bitten twice shy type of thing

So any clues would be welcomed... please consider I have bunnings at my door down the road in Bunbury along with several other places... Carbetex and the others are over 200klicks away so not an option at this stage that was to stop the bright sparks sayin "EEE" or some such ;)

Cheers!! :cool:

Dingo,

Assuming you don't want to go down the lacquer spraying route (which has a steep equipment & technique learning curve), then I would recommend an oil / poly mix. The finish is usually satin (not glossy like varnish), really shows off the wood grain, and is very durable (water & scratch resistant). And fairly easy and quick to apply (as opposed to the pure oils like Organoil which take FOREVER and are REALLY HARD WORK - especially for something like a table. And still look fairly flat. Don't go there.)

A popular product is "Minwax wipe on poly". It's called "poly" but is still an oil/poly mix. Another very good one (that I prefer) is Feast Watson Floorseal. It's great for floors & furniture. (I like to spray on the Floorseal - 2 or 3 coats with maybe 5-10% turps as thinner - though not always necessary. Sanding back with 320 grit / ROS - between coats). But you can also brush on (sanding back with 320 grit between coats). A finishing rub with EEE Ultrashine and you'll be ecstatic.

Richard

Richard's tips seem spot on to me. The floorseal would be a good choice for rough wear on the top.

Just one point, timber is porous and soft woods especially have open grain which means that if you apply a coating air tends to get trapped under the surface. If the temperature warms up while its wet the air expands and you get bubbles (especially if its a thick coat) even if you have applied it carfeully. Stirring the paint with a stick and not shaking it help stop bubbles also.

If you spray the air comes out of the gun first therefore it hits the surface first goes into the grain and bounces back out. Its neally impossible to get the paint to flow into the grain. So if you intend to spray the finish always brush in the first coat. And the coat should be thin even extra thin to soak into the timber and seal it off. Brushing rubs the paint into the pours of the timber.

The painters rule is always brush the first coat on never spray it. You will only get away with sprayng if the timber is really dense and close grained.
Spraying sanding sealer works because the lacquer is so thin it will soak in before it sets up.

Depending of the timber its then OK to apply the coats normally as per the instruction of the manufacture.

I'm a fan of Danish Oil - Rustin's works well.

Easy to apply, durable, repairable, choose your level of satin <> gloss by means of buffing, and highlights figure nicely.

Thanks fellas! :cool:

Have spray kit and not afraid to use it :D well actually... mmm Im yet to spray any of my woodwork just like getting right up next to it is all... will have a go one day I guess just well not yet?

Its very old well weathered and seasoned Jarrah Durwood and so definantly not of the "soft wood" variety... but thanks for the heads up!

Will go as per Richards recommendation with the Feast Watson Floorseal (if he tells me where to get it!) and finish with the EEE stuff

Will post completion pics in 3 weeks when I return

Cheers!

Richards floorseal spray tips are fantastic and work a treat:D Ur got a top table their Ding:D

I've seen Feast Watson at bunnies.

Dingo,

I think most paint supply / hardware type stores will carry Feast Watson products - including Floorseal. Durwoods comments regarding at least a first brush coat are interesting. I'll try that next time. He sounds like he has vast spray finishing experience (of which I'm envious). I'd strongly recommend giving your spray gun a workout. If you spray your final coat it will give you a far more even and smooth finish. You'll be amazed.

I could be wrong, but I think the Danish oils are also Oil / Poly mixes, but just a bit less poly and a lot more oil in the mix. So you may need to work a bit harder to get a satin sheen. And they may be less water / scratch resistant. (Years ago I used Rustins Danish on door & window frame joinery and it still looked a bit flat. A final coat of Floorseal on top and it looked great).

Richard

Richard,

Hi I am taking on board the Feast Watson advice and spraying
a computer desk top i have just put together. I will also be taking Durwoods advice and brushing on the first coat.

Just one question Richard finishing with the "EEE Ultrashine" can you tell me what it is and where to get it.

Thanks heaps love the site,

Daniel

Daniel,

us "old timers" on the forum love it when forum new-comers ask about UBeaut products. You see, Ubeat is the host of this website / the woodworking forums. Go to the Ubeaut home page and it will lead you to their products, including EEE Ultrashine. EEE is a cut & polish. I use it to mask / fix up any minor flaws in my lacquer or oil/poly finishes. But sometimes I get carried away and work it over entire pieces. It looks great as a final polish. But isn't absolutely necessary.

Richard

Daniel, oops, meant to also say WELCOME.

Richard

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead

Another very good one (that I prefer) is Feast Watson Floorseal. It's great for floors & furniture. (I like to spray on the Floorseal - 2 or 3 coats with maybe 5-10% turps as thinner - though not always necessary. Sanding back with 320 grit / ROS - between coats). But you can also brush on (sanding back with 320 grit between coats). A finishing rub with EEE Ultrashine and you'll be ecstatic.

Richard

---

So how long do you leave the last coat of floorseal before hitting it with EEE?

And another question, if one was not going to spray it on then what's the best method for applying the floorseal, brush? wipe on?
I've had a little play on a small piece of jarrah, wiped on 3 coats, sand in between, left for a couple of days then EEE, looked OK but I'm sure it could be better.

Thanks
Redgy

Redgy,

from my experience you want to put on a fair amount of product, so brush on with floorseal is better than wipe on. My guess is your wipe on was a thin coat.

I think you could go with EEE after a few days. As long as the floorseal had fully "cured".

Richard

Thanks Richard,

I have put 3 coats of floorseal on so far, with the first coat brushed on.
It's starting to look very nice, Ive been sanding it back in between
each coat with 320 then 400.

I am having a little trouble with my spray technique, im not sure if im
putting enough on each coat. Its ending up with little dimples all over
the surface??

I was a joiner for 12years but didn't have to muck around with the spray
gun cause the boss used to do most of the spraying. Now it's taking
me a little while setting up my own spray gear.

Thanks again for all the help.

DD

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DoubleD

Thanks Richard,

I have put 3 coats of floorseal on so far, with the first coat brushed on.
It's starting to look very nice, Ive been sanding it back in between
each coat with 320 then 400.

I am having a little trouble with my spray technique, im not sure if im
putting enough on each coat. Its ending up with little dimples all over
the surface??

I was a joiner for 12years but didn't have to muck around with the spray
gun cause the boss used to do most of the spraying. Now it's taking
me a little while setting up my own spray gear.

Thanks again for all the help.

DD

---

Sounds like it needs thinning down a bit.

Thanks Bob

I Will try to thin it down a bit more.

I have just been on the UBeaut website and read up on all the
products (I want some of that stuff!!!). Who can i get intouch with to find out the closest distributor to me is?

Regards
Daniel
Newcastle

Daniel,

All my finishing efforts have involved much failure before any success. With Floorseal I also noticed when I brushed it on it took a few coats / and especially sanding back with 320 (random orbital) between coats, before I achieved a good finish. But even then, I found I needed to do a final rub with something like EEE or a wax/polish.

With your spraying (something that took me ages to get right), it sounds like you have too little air and too little fluid (Floorseal). You need to dial up the air and fluid seetings on your gun. Floorseal is quite "runny" and should only need about 10% turps, if any at all. I think the spray effect you have is called "orange peel". Do a search on spray finishing and you'll find out heaps.

Richard

Well... after much humming and harrin fumin an mutterin consulting with me myself and I... we have come to the conclusion

That we will

1) varnish the underbody (legs cleats and feet) of the table
2) whack on a bottle or two of Marveer then buff polish with EEE

Im going this way as Ive had some increadible success with Marveer over the years just keep pouring it and spreading it leavin it to dry then repeat till it takes no more then leave it a week then see if its totally covered if it isnt repeat... then polish like billyoh leaves a wonderous lustre

Now having commited to that course of action...

I did notice today that daughter number 3 (she who will own this table) has decided to try her hand at Marquetry as well and wants to make a bird suckin necture from a flower for the top with a stem flower leaf arrangement that runs partway around the top and down one leg... and wants me to insert some gems for flourish (she saw a website that had this and decided that is what we should do as well... god help me if she ever wants chairs!! :eek: ) sigh... so I will once it is time probably revise my decision with regard to finishin... and probably end up finishin with that 2 part poly goop :rolleyes:

Still sanding... sanding... sanding... did I ever mention how much I like sanding? :o But with a bung knee and on crutches theres not much more I can do other than... sand :( BUT!! the tops comin up a sweet treat! ;) :cool:

Dingo, wots dis “I am away for 3 weeks” business? We were enjoying your absence and your already back.

Thanks Richard

I will be putting another coat on the top this morning, and will dial both
stettings on the gun up and see how it goes.

Does anyone know if you can buy the U Beaut stuff from
hardware stores if so which one, or can you only order it online.

Regards

Daniel
Newcastle

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

hi, i have stained a table and am now at the stage of putting a high gloss over the top.

i have stained the table with black japan and i was wanting a high shione on top...
anyway i have started to apply watsons floorproof... is this the same as floorseal....if not it is doing the same thing..

i started to apply with a brush but flound it too thick and then changed to a roller....this was much better but the fluff from the roller got stuck in the floorproof...but when it drys i will sand this back and try again...i really liked the ease of the roller and hopefully the fluff problem won't happen again .

i do not have a spray gun and have no way of obtaining one so these are my questions:

1. is floor proof the same as floor seal
2. can i use a roller
3. do i have to thin down the first layer
4. can i use a mineral turpintine even though on the can it says to use a watson thinner and not a turps and is thinning necessary if i am using a roller.
5 what grade of sanding paper do i use
6. is it necessary to sand between coats
7. should a use a polish over the top coat..i have used floorproof before on something and found that when i wiped it with a wet cloth it streaked.

i am a very amateur wood worker and do not know anything about this stuff and always end up with botchy jobs....this is our dining table which was fine before i started to change the stain so i can't afford to do a bad job.

hope someone out there can help me...

Marveer is a bit suss AFAIK ... think it has the dreaded silicone in it.

Reading this thread with interest. I have just completed a jarrah dining table for a friend. 1.5m square. The finish was a problem until i gave the brush away and wiped on the final coat. I coated legs, rails and top with Wattyl Tung oil by brush. First three coats were sanded lightly with 400 grit and wiped clean before proceeding. Final coat was spread with a lint free cloth pad ( just some cotton) and left to dry. The finish was fantastic as long as you wipe it on, and leave it. Careful application will give a great finish.. If you have to touch up any missed bits, the touchups will be seen when dry.
This product must be pretty durable as I used it after watching a bloke finish off the gym floor at my school.
Good luck with whatever you use, the table will surely look great.

Hi Dingo,

I have finished Jarrah with Danish oil, Ogange Oil & Fine Buffing Oil, all on different jobs.

These all bring Jarrah up a treat, & dead easy to use. I usually apply it with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper with the grain for the first coat, & then with a soft cloth for the rest.

REMEMBER, what ever you put on the top, you should aslo put on the bottom. You don't have to finish the bottom like the top, but if you put 3 coats of X & 2 of Y on the top, put it on the bottom as well. This will stop the timber from absorbing more moisture through the bottom than the top & help prevent warping.

Steve