Losing my marbles.

After having a couple of 1L cans of Rustin's Danish Oil go off overnight once they got down to the last 1/4 can, I started adding marbles to keep the air out. It makes guesstimating how much is left in the can awkward (it gets heavier instead of lighter!) but it works... until the can is full of marbles and the oil level gets down to the 1/4 mark again, whereupon it sets. Around the marbles. :o

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how do you recover yer marbles? Opening the tin with a hatchet doesn't work too well... my marbles are made of glass after all! :eek:

So... errmmm... help? https://www.ubeaut.biz/help.gif

Never heard of using marbles before .....

doesn't flipping the can on its lid work for you ?

Maybe get in real close to the can and whisper ..." I want me balls back please " ....might work.

Can opener to take off the top & bottom of the tin, tin snips up the side, then soaking the lot in thinners mebbe ?

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Pour mineral spirits into can to cover the remaining product, before

sealing lid. Just enough to cover the unused portion. The mineral spirits
will act as a vapor barrier and will evaporate before air begins to hit
product. If you use the product before the mineral spirits have
evaporated, you can stir the mineral spirits into remaining product. (The
mineral spirits will not weaken the performance of the product)"
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Tis' a qoute from a thread regarding Wipe on Poly.....may be applied to Danish Oil too?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by apricotripper

Never heard of using marbles before .....

doesn't flipping the can on its lid work for you ?

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Nup. Danish doesn't form a skin, it just turns to gel practically overmight. From experience it happens every time there's about a 1:3 oil:air ratio.

Quote:

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Maybe get in real close to the can and whisper ..." I want me balls back please " ....might work.

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Can only give it a try. Doesn't always work with... other things in my life... though. :rolleyes:

BLOXYGEN. Go to the bottom of this page and do a Google search.

Cheers - Neil :)

Skew,
if you've got argon or similar for a mig then you could fill the can with this. Or if you home brew in kegs then you could use the beergas (CO2) failing this you can get aerosol cans of inert gas for saving wine.

Mick

Hmmm... Bloxygen? Live'n'learn!

I wonder if CO2 will work as well...? I'll huff and I'll puff and hopefully won't lose any more of my marbles. :rolleyes:

Couldn't you just decant it into a smaller container ?
If you did it slowly you wouldn't get puffed :cool:

What about heat?

Might work?

some petrol and a match should let you recover the marbles

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Nup. Danish doesn't form a skin, it just turns to gel practically overmight. From experience it happens every time there's about a 1:3 oil:air ratio.
:

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ohh, I didn't know that. I've only used Danish a couple of times..... I'd say Ashores idea sounds easier than putting some kind of solution on top....just pour into an old milo or coffee tin ?????

Quote:

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Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Skew,
Could use the beergas

Mick

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no-one touching that one I see:D:D

Serious answer, I use the upside down can theory, seems to work for me

I'm going to try the inert gas trick at least once, just to see it in action (or not) for myself. I can't see myself using it all the time as the Danish is opened more often than the shed door, especially when I'm using it on my turnings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashore

Couldn't you just decant it into a smaller container ?
If you did it slowly you wouldn't get puffed :cool:

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Had a smartarse reply written then realised you meant wait until the level gets low and then decant it. :o Yes, that'd work. Thanks!

I feel stupid(er) now. :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by echnidna

some petrol and a match should let you recover the marbles

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Even if it doesn't it's the sort of thing I enjoy trying. (Now where did I put those old oily rags? :D) I really would like to recover the marbles, most are new cheapies from the $2 shop but the first lot included some very old aggies. It seemed like such a good idea at the time. :eek::o

I've tried a can-opener but either the tins are heavier gauge than most tucker cans or these modern openers aren't worth a... eructation of beer gas. I suspect the latter. I've also given some thought to an angle-grinder but that has overtones of "Home Improvement" at its' worst and I thought I'd look for something a tad more subtle first. It looks like a moloto... ermmm... petrol & matches is it. :D

Skew, next time you buy a can decant it into small glass jars or use Organoil's Danish Oil, it doesn't go off.
Cheers
Barry

Danish oil, without the Poly-U added, won't go off the way you describe, I believe. Some of the ahem! lesser brands (like Cab***) are really just Poly-U with a sniff of Danish (e..g Tung) oil added.

The Cab*** stuff works ok, but just buy cans to match the needs for just one or two sessions - which makes the cheaper price actually much more...

Lee Valley sell 'concertina' bottles for keeping things like 'Danish' oil in - as the level lowers due to use, you just squash the bottle down a bit more. They were originally made for hikers to carry water in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Danish oil, without the Poly-U added, won't go off the way you describe, I believe. Some of the ahem! lesser brands (like Cab***) are really just Poly-U with a sniff of Danish (e..g Tung) oil added.

The Cab*** stuff works ok, but just buy cans to match the needs for just one or two sessions - which makes the cheaper price actually much more...

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I did specify 'twas Rustin's Danish Oil... really! The name just got dropped somewhere along the way in the thread, but at no time have I intended to refer to anything else. I guess I should have stressed it more often, just to make it clear, but I dislike seeming as though I'm pushing brand names. Especially considering the nature of our kind hosts' business. ;)

Anyway, Rustin's Danish Oil is very well suited for lathe applications, which is mainly where I use it and I've no intention of changing. :) For larger items I prefer pure Tung oil; I think it gives better penetration and a better finish, although it does take quite a bit longer to dry. When wet sanding, this can be an advantage.

I agree wholeheartedly about the cheaper oils, I've bemoaned before in other threads that "oils ain't oils, Sal" and wished it was otherwise, but... [shrug]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bsrlee

Lee Valley sell 'concertina' bottles for keeping things like 'Danish' oil in - as the level lowers due to use, you just squash the bottle down a bit more. They were originally made for hikers to carry water in.

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I know the ones, having seen 'em in their catalogue. I just hadn't really put two and two together. Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for them next time I'm browsing.