Painting doors with mini rollers

I'm about to paint new doors with brush for the panel-edge detail and mini roller on the flat. Already purchased Aquanamel semi gloss.

The foam and microfibre roller packaging both state they are suitable for Aquanamel (interesting that they mention only this product by name) and generically mention gloss, varnish...

I'm pretty sure the final result will depend on technique, eg paint load and how much it's worked, but looking for your experiences and any tips on mini roller choice, and technique too

I got a really smooth finish on a cupboard door by laying-off with brush tip after using the roller - but, gee, with water-based paint you have to be fast!

I warmed the pot of paint. (The can in hot water for a while.) And with the door resting horizontally because the paint has thinned out (being heated) it spreads easier. To minimise brush strokes. It worked, but because the only place I had space to lay it out was in the shed, which was dusty, the paint picked up a lot of dust spot marks. Perhaps in the right environment, it would be good.

I painted a full house set of doors using Uni-Pro microfibre mini rollers on all faces, they also got into the detail around each panel.
However I was using gloss enamel so not sure how it would compare. Perhaps some Floetrol may assist but have no personal experience.

Thanks folks. A couple of the doors are already hung (bottom edge painted first). I'll give the microfibre a go!

Had to repaint a door that the wife put a leadlight panel into after I removed the top panel and created a rebate. Only had to do one side, and the foam roller gave as good a finish as the sprayed surface on the other side. + 1 foam roller

Ok. I reckon I'll give both microfibre and foam a go. :) Time poor so haven't gotten stuck into it yet

I've always rolled on with an appropriate size roller and laid off very quickly with a brush. Loosened the enamel with a tiny bit of water ( I say loosened rather than thinned, it's just enough to extend working time a little and make it easier to flow). I have used floetrol in the past but not recently and the water works fine for me.

If you have any glass in the doors (not stained glass or textured) eg French doors, then get a tin of masking paint, it will save hours.

Masking paint? You mean you paint it on and it peels off like tape?

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Originally Posted by Slowrenos

Masking paint? You mean you paint it on and it peels off like tape?

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Exactly!

Attachment 537766

It will prime unpainted timber. For doors that are already painted a light sand of the paint to knock off the gloss is enough according to the tech line but I chose to also paint on Resene Smooth Surface Primer because I wanted zero issues with the new enamel staying on the glazing bars (in fact the whole doors). That Resene primer is also excellent.

Here is a video of me removing the Seal and Peel from last years reno's. The whole house is full of 8 light French doors and side lights and 4 light awning windows so efficiency is important!

https://youtu.be/yX1Y5HPd9wg?si=EfqnhEEvBXUmucnO

Well, I never! When I think of all the hours I've spent fiddling with masking tape on window sashes and glazed doors...! This stuff will make a huge difference. Many thanks for heads-up and video, Mic.

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Originally Posted by Slowrenos

Well, I never! When I think of all the hours I've spent fiddling with masking tape on window sashes and glazed doors...! This stuff will make a huge difference. Many thanks for heads-up and video, Mic.

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I know right! Too much wasted time. I was skeptical at first but cutting in the Seal and Peel is super easy, you don't have to worry about brushing it on the wood, but you do want to avoid big globs of it on the wood, that's pretty easy. And another great thing is no worries about bleed under tape.

That stuff is a game changer!

Another notion is to paint the frame, don't worry about getting paint on the glass, then when the paint is dry but not left until it's rock hard, using a sharp knife to cut through the excess (like you did in the video), and scraping the paint from the glass using a scraper, putty knife, joint knife or similar tool.

I've never done this personally, but seen it done and was impressed.

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Originally Posted by ErrolFlynn

Another notion is to paint the frame, don't worry about getting paint on the glass, then when the paint is dry but not left until it's rock hard, using a sharp knife to cut through the excess (like you did in the video), and scraping the paint from the glass using a scraper, putty knife, joint knife or similar tool.

I've never done this personally, but seen it done and was impressed.

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No way it's coming off as clean as in the video above. If even close, would have to be perfect timing

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Originally Posted by mic-d

Exactly!

Attachment 537766



Here is a video of me removing the Seal and Peel from last years reno's. The whole house is full of 8 light French doors and side lights and 4 light awning windows so efficiency is important!

https://youtu.be/yX1Y5HPd9wg?si=EfqnhEEvBXUmucnO

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A bit late, Mike, but I just stumbled on this. My first reaction was "Yeah, yeah, yeah." until I saw your authorship. A couple of questions:

• How accurate do you have to be when cutting in the Peel Paint on the window glass?
• What happens if you get a splodge of Peel Paint on the wooden glazing bar?
• How else couuld you stuff it up?

You make it look so easy that I am suspicious.

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Originally Posted by GraemeCook

A bit late, Mike, but I just stumbled on this. My first reaction was "Yeah, yeah, yeah." until I saw your authorship. A couple of questions:

• How accurate do you have to be when cutting in the Peel Paint on the window glass?
• What happens if you get a splodge of Peel Paint on the wooden glazing bar?
• How else couuld you stuff it up?

You make it look so easy that I am suspicious.

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Nothing suspicious.
Before cutting in. If the window is raw timber you don't need to do anything. Seal and Peel will prime. If it is painted you need to either sand it to knock off the shine and/or use Resene shiny surface sealer (exact name?). I highly recommend that product. When cutting in just ensure you don't have globs on the timber, overlapping timber with a thin coat is fine. You need two coats.

I splodge of seal and peel will take long to dry and look ugly. Don't do this.

How else can you stuff up? You can't. Just ensure you run the release cut right into the corners. I suppose if you don't it is possible to rip off the fresh paint, I never had this happen because I am not inept. ;-)