A project with lots of repetition.
I have to coat 2000+ pieces 40*40*299mm Tasmanian Oak
They are to be part of an art installation which will be in place for
at least 3 years and form base support points which will be in
ground save for 20mm.
Spray painting is not an option.
Hand painting is something I am trying to avoid.
Is there a solution that I can dip and quickly scrub each piece,
put on a drying rack then repeat 4 times.
Dip, scrub, tap, stack, dry repeat.
Something water based that become almost water like.
This is to avoid viscous paint gumming up the racks.
Realistic or not ?
Currently testing submerging for various times.
Using 1/2 Cabots Exterior clear satin + acrylic 1/2 water + enough acrylic paint to colour.
Submerging for 1, 3, 5 & 10 minutes.
The mix needs to be thin enough to run back into the paint trough from a drying rack.
Will repeat 5-6 times allowing 4 hours drying time between.
When dry will cut to see depth of penetration. The colour will make penetration easier to see.
If all good will scale up.
When I said permanent it was a figure of speech.
2 years will be fine.
Ultimately it will require much less time than hand painting
and considerably less time than spray painting.
Dropped the dipping method.
Thank you so very much for your input.
I would have settled on a good 'skin' but the drying aspect turned out
to be a bit of a bugger couldn't come up with a labour effective solution
for separating them to prevent them 'sticking' to each other.
This 'oil' has me intrigued.
There are oil based paints but are there any rub on oils ( that can be coloured ).
I am now imagining rubbing the wood pieces with an oil impregnated rag,
throwing them on to a stack with no 'sticking to each other' problem then
giving them another 2 rubs.
O begger!
Oil won't do the trick and waterproof underground.
Back to the drawing board.
Does anyone know any brand names for the stuff that turns wood blue.
Contains Copper naphthenate but not sure if the stuff comes in a watery form.
Funny you should say that.
Given the penetration of linseed there is the possibility that the little house wreckers
will find precious little they 'want' to eat sandwiched between linseed yuk!
A 'skin' will be infinitely preferable.
Which is just as well because Linseed is too messy and takes forever to dry and there is a good chance mine will never dry.
I figured a min labour way to prop them up vertically for drying so I am going the original route
with different mix tomorrow.
4 parts Cabots Exterior clear satin + 4 parts acrylic paint + 2 parts water ( to start ).
Fingers crossed.
Please accept my apology for the misdirection ( aka a lie ).
Through all this I was fearful of competitors but completely forgot
( because I am so close to it ) that the indication system ( the white part
at the top ) can remain safely under wraps.
Sorry again good people.
There is a labour ad that still remains stubborn.
Most of the pieces I cut end up with tiny splinters at the cut sight.
I have to physically sand them down.
Does this happen due to saw sharpness or quality or is t unavoidable ?
Masking tape might do the trick.
Adding pre cut and removing post cut will most likely be roughly the same labour add
as sanding 4 corners but it doesn't happen with every cut so I will most likely try slowing down.
Thank you for your advice.
