finishing vic ash

Hi All,After a few mishaps i was wondering a good solution to use to filla few areas of small chips, raised grain etc.

Anything larger i've used either clear epoxy or tinted epoxy.but for the small hardly there as per photo i'm in two minds to try fill with putty / wood dust mix or try a slurry method with osmo.Finishing is planned to be osmo raw

What's everyone using?

Attachment 463873Attachment 463874Attachment 463875

For timber as lightly coloured as this, I'd use both methods. PVA/wood-dust for the larger chips, but a wet-sand to fill the bulk of 'em with slurry.

The results won't be 'invisible' fills - the glue/dust tends to be more obvious - but generally look like minor natural defects in colour.

I prefer the glue/wood dust filler over a commercial timber filler because it can be a right PITA getting the commercial filler in a close enough colour match, but primarily because of my scottish ancestry. (Short arms and deep pockets. ;) )

Unless I'm looking at the wrong defects, a smoothing plane will clean it up nicely.

Kind regards,
Lance

If it's small, I've been using some of this medium CA glue https://www.timbecon.com.au/ca-cyanoacrylate-super-glue with activator if needed. Seals and sands easily without the long waiting time of epoxy. Epoxy for the big stuff with a drop of black stain mixed in.

Thanks for the replies,

I'll give the cyanoacrylate a go maybe as its all minor stuff now anything major i filled with either clear epoxy or as you said with a drop black (I've been using black iron oxide as thats what i had around)

I might give a few spots a god with the dust / glue method just to try it out.

A plane would work but i looks like its just mostly 1 section / board so in my very amateur hands i'm likely to make a mess and cause it to be be unlevel

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

For timber as lightly coloured as this, I'd use both methods. PVA/wood-dust for the larger chips, but a wet-sand to fill the bulk of 'em with slurry.
)

---

Could you please explain the “wet-sand/slurry” method?

Cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lappa

Could you please explain the “wet-sand/slurry” method?

Cheers

---

It's nothing special. Apply a coat of whatever I'm finishing with (usually Tung Oil, but it depends) and wet-sand with a mid-range grit. Say about 360-480grit, but this depends on the timber. Fine-grained timber I may go higher; for coarse-grained, possibly lower.

Let it dry, cut back with the same grit, then continue finishing as one would normally.

Vic Ash can be prone to small sections breaking away and lifting, almost as though you've worked against the grain. When you're stuck with such a recalcitrant piece, no amount of planing or sanding will help... what you remove just reveals more. These pieces respond very nicely to spot filling where needed and a slurry coat, which has saved my bacon on a few jobs. ;)

Thanks for that

This is essentially what i did when i first got a tin of osmo on a test piece. As i noticed vic ash likes to break away if you get overly "aggressive" with it like you said.

Basically gave it a light final sand at 240grit put a thin coat of osmo raw and gave it a quick sand while wet, let it dry off, it was then a bit rough to the touch due to the dust / raised grain.
I then sanded at 400 just to smooth it off and level it out

Finally i did 1 more coat as you normally would. I let that dry and it was ever so slightly rough i gave it a few strokes with a very fine grit then wiped it off and it seems to work some what well.

The test piece didn't have as many tear aways / lifting so was curious if after filling the bigger ones if the "slurry" method as above would help fill the other smaller ones

Thanks Skew.i am aware of the wet slurry when finishing but I somehow interpreted your reference as something being done while sanding in the intermediate but before applying a finish.
Cheers

Good advice above.

I've used a fair bit of Vic Ash, but I thought to mention that if one gets it wet it has a nasty habit of turning a hideous green tinge. Applying an acid of some kind (I'll find my info on it - muretic?) removes the green.

My experiences are the same as above - if a bit wants to stick up it will not sit down! Just like bad hair before a date.... its always the way. My method is to apply/wick a little thin CA glue, no activator. It hardens up the recalcitrant fuzz and tames the sanding.

For making the dark colour I've used dry coffee grounds, India ink, lamp black (my favourite), black milk paint (from the Old Milkpaint Company) and RIT dye. All work. Just mix a little in to the CA, let it set, sand it back and it looks just like an inclusion.

These are just my experiences. I made a bunch of displays a while back and was the first time I seriously used Vic/Tas ash... oh man, what a learning experience! It was a nice result... but.... that GREEN!!!! OMG (doom!!!) :) . I avoid water and moisture completely now, even my hands. May be overkill/paranoia :)

On finish, my absolute Go-To for Vic Ash is Livos Kunos oil.... oh, seriously wow.... you really need to try it out! On Vic Ash it is like touching fresh silk.

Green haven't see that before, n another thread this benchtop got rained on when my patio leaked i managed to get most of the water out quite quickly and it's dried back to the original colour. I wonder if the green tinge is some type of treatment?

Hi All,

After getting this prepped for oil i've now gone ahead and used OSMO polyx clear matte on the under side.

It's now touch dry and i'm not overly happy with the finish as it appears there is different "sheen" levels.
The method i used was

1. Apply a thin coat using a white scotch bright and work into the wood
2. Wet sand with 320 grit
3. Let dry over night
4. Sand back lightly with 320 grit
5. Apply 2nd thin coat with white scotch bright

It's as if its drying at a different rate in different areas or my sanding technique is off when rubbing back so there is high and low areas? or the application was uneven?
It looks quite even application wise until about an hour later when its really started drying and its drying in a patchy manner.

Not too concerned about the underside but better to resolve the issues before moving to the top side. It's possible it just need longer to cure and level out?

I'm thinking to move to a microfiber roller for the top side with no wet sanding

Attachment 464554Attachment 464555

Did you give the can a good stir? I usually sand to 180-220g and roll it on with a foam roller. Once the first coat is dry (usually overnight), dry sand with 320g and then go for a second coat. Maybe the oil didn't penetrate enough and you've wet sanded back to wood.

If I read correctly, you've finished the bottom without moving to the top? Probably a good idea to finish both sides evenly to minimise any warping issues.

With Vic Ash & OSMO polyx clear. I have had great success.
1. Sand timber @ 180.
2. Quality 4mm nap roller. Thin coat.
3. Dry overnight.
4. Wet sand (wet & dry 400+ with a flat block). Light sand!
Repeat 2, 3 & 4 as necessary.
Attachment 464639

Hi,

Thanks to all who answered!

I checked i used a 125ml can it had the rate as 125ml to 3sqm so the maths is about right.
To be honest maybe i didn't shake the can / stir it well enough it's certainly a possibility, i'll make sure on the next can i do this very very well.

It seems to have penetrated ok and is now smooth just the sheen level seems off, i'll move to the top this evening so it coated evenly as you suggested. I can live with an uneven "sheen" in places i can't see......

I think i'm going to follow mostly your process and not over work it or over complicate it.
As when i just used a brush for a thin coat with a slight rub between coats with 400 grit it came out fantastic.

Seems like you both have a very similar process.

1. Sand timber @ 180.
2. Quality 4mm nap roller. Thin coat.
3. Dry overnight.
4. Wet sand (wet & dry 400+ with a flat block). Light sand!

@graham that looks fantastic!

Did you skip grits when sanding the top initially? Any rougher areas I find Osmo looks more dull (as more oil+wax is absorbed). I found that it is super important to ensure all areas are sanded well before moving to the next grit.

Another reason can be applying too much and uneven. It can look dull as the areas of too much finish will have more wax = looks dull.

If this happens I just use 240grit with ROS to remove most of it (not all as it is unnecessary). Then apply a couple more coats VERY thinly. If you are unsure, after you apply, you can essentially wipe off excess with a cotton rag. In fact, when I'm lazy thats how I've been using it - wipe on a large amount to get it spread with a rag and then waiting a few mins and then wiping all the excess off. After you wipe it off it basically needs to look like the timber is wet without any shiny spots/spots of oil sitting on the surface or streaks. Wipe it ALL off.

My process is essentially:
1. sand to 180 or 240
2. compress air surface to remove dust
3. apply osmo THINLY (except if I'm lazy then I do the above). Large areas I use a 5mm nap roller. Complex areas I use a small square of an old T shirt. Important to apply thinly or to wipe off excess if too much is applied.
4. let dry overnight, in the morning denib with 600grit by hand - just wiping over surface with the grain like you would if you were wiping down a table with a wet tea towel
5. there will be white dust after the 600grit, wipe off with rag. ok to leave the small amount left as it dissolves into second coat. Apply second coat
6. Next day denib with 1200grit if necessary. Compress air to remove white dust

2 coats is generally enough

I've used quite a few litres of the stuff and definitely had to fix application/finishing mistakes as I became more familiar with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by qwertyu

Did you skip grits when sanding the top initially? Any rougher areas I find Osmo looks more dull (as more oil+wax is absorbed). I found that it is super important to ensure all areas are sanded well before moving to the next grit.

Another reason can be applying too much and uneven. It can look dull as the areas of too much finish will have more wax = looks dull.

If this happens I just use 240grit with ROS to remove most of it (not all as it is unnecessary). Then apply a couple more coats VERY thinly. If you are unsure, after you apply, you can essentially wipe off excess with a cotton rag. In fact, when I'm lazy thats how I've been using it - wipe on a large amount to get it spread with a rag and then waiting a few mins and then wiping all the excess off. After you wipe it off it basically needs to look like the timber is wet without any shiny spots/spots of oil sitting on the surface or streaks. Wipe it ALL off.

My process is essentially:
1. sand to 180 or 240
2. compress air surface to remove dust
3. apply osmo THINLY (except if I'm lazy then I do the above). Large areas I use a 5mm nap roller. Complex areas I use a small square of an old T shirt. Important to apply thinly or to wipe off excess if too much is applied.
4. let dry overnight, in the morning denib with 600grit by hand - just wiping over surface with the grain like you would if you were wiping down a table with a wet tea towel
5. there will be white dust after the 600grit, wipe off with rag. ok to leave the small amount left as it dissolves into second coat. Apply second coat
6. Next day denib with 1200grit if necessary. Compress air to remove white dust

2 coats is generally enough

I've used quite a few litres of the stuff and definitely had to fix application/finishing mistakes as I became more familiar with it.

---

Thanks for this i was actually thinking about this as i've now finished the top off it came out ok for sure, room for a lot of improvement and i came to some of the same conclusions maybe this will have absolute beginners like me.

I wish i had read this before along with the other advice before starting! i have another table top so i'll get to that one with 'lessons learned"

1. You reallllly need to make sure the surface is very evenly sanded especially with boards that are joined / not matched perfectly or as you said the if 1 board area is sanded even slightly differently the absorption rate is different and has a slightly different "sheen"

2. I used a 5mm Monarch microfiber roller, i found this to be much more even for something like a table top
3. Applying equal pressure is really important or you end up with "holidays" when rolling. I noticed this after about 20 minutes of drying when it combines with it not being sanded even enough across the entire surface
4. Black epoxy is much better looking imo
5. Make sure its sanded flat all over as any height differences 2-3 mm up and down or small depressions show up badly when you add a slight sheen and its a huge area like a table top.
6. 2 coats i think would have been enough i had to do 3 as i had a tear out when lightly sanding between 1st and 2nd coat so needed a 3rd to even it out (Lesson learn sand more carefully and not as hard)
7. I need a better ROS!

Here are some pic's i used OSMO raw as i wanted it to be close to natural as possible, i'm still in two minds if i sand back a fair bit with 240 / 180 and apply another coat to try get the sheen more even as at a very low angle you can see some "holidays" in what painters would call it? or perhaps if i wet sand back with 1200 grit it will even everything out.


1st coat about 30 minutes in drying

Attachment 464860

After 1st coat drying

Attachment 464862

2nd coat wet

Attachment 464863 Attachment 464864

3rd Coat Dry where its at now

Attachment 464865Attachment 464866