Osmo Polyx 'Raw' first impressions

Today I used Osmo Polyx 'Raw' to finish a white oak dining table. Client didn't want any yellowing of the timber and wanted it to look at natural as possible but still be protected. First image is prior to finish, second image is just after coating and third image is after the oil has dried. I am quite impressed at how neutral it kept the timber. You can see during application it does yellow the timber while the oil is 'wet' but mellows out once dried.
Attachment 419732Attachment 419733Attachment 419734

Encouraging - I have some sample sachets of the 'Raw' which I want to try on some Rock Maple.

The big question, of course, is how well it resists yellowing long term.

Hurcorh/Mr Brush,

I use Osmo PolyX a bit when I want an oil/wax finish. I got on to originally it through Peter Parfitt's YouTube videos but having recently been in Andrew Crawford's workshop in Shropshire UK and Chris Tribe's in Yorkshire I note they are both users as well. PolyX seems to be very popular in the UK.

I haven't found any darkening over time, but I suspect that may be influenced by other things such as exposure to UV.

Hurcorh - were the pics taken after one/two/three coats?

Thanks,

Brian

Cheers homey - of course, UV exposure is unlikely to be a problem back in the old country (UK) :D

PolyX is my "go to" finish for most projects these days. I just picked up some sample sachets while I was at the Sydney distributor recently, so I'm keen to see how the 'Raw' version goes. The trouble is, Rock Maple takes a while to yellow with any finish - it tends to stay fairly white for a few years even under exposure to reasonable UV levels. I might coat a sample board with the PolyX 'Raw' and plonk it out on our north facing verandah for some intensive UV exposure !!

Homey,

I am a big fan of the Osmo Polyx Satin i've used it quite a bit. Same with the top oil. This was the first time I had used the 'Raw' though.

The photos above are after the suggested two coats. Might do three on the top. Will see how it goes.

Cheers.

Found this post on the Festool Owners Group forum. It is from a US distributor of PolyX:

"I would have to say that you do get a "really good clean clear without any tint" finish but that really is a subjective description - for that matter, if you put water on a piece of wood it changes the color so it's really my opinion but I truly do see this as a clear, no tint finish. Now to yellowing - This product will not yellow at all. There is no UV protection in the clear hardwax 3054 so mother nature (the sun) will change the color of the wood over time but not the finish. OSMO does make a UV clear but it's mostly for outdoor use and has no wax in it."

My take on this is that, long term, PolyX would be good on items out of the sun - most jewellery boxes in bedrooms perhaps - but expect normal UV yellowing for anything that sits in the sun.

This same distributor says DON'T (his capitals, not mine) put on three coats. See the full discussion at http://festoolownersgroup.com/finishing/osmo-polyx-oil-finish-anyone-use-it/

Hurcorh/Mr Brush - I'd be very interested to hear how the 'Raw' product works over time.

Brian

I'm friends with the person i've made this table for so will be able to update over time how it goes. It has a large window nearby so we will soon know how it holds up to a bit of sunshine.

homey - thanks for that link, interesting stuff.:2tsup:

I'm mainly interested in a finish for rock maple which will maintain the white colour fairly well for indoor furniture, e.g. hall tables, exposed to normal indoor levels of UV. The idea for this came from a hall table I saw at Sturt gallery a while ago which had a figured rock maple top floating on a darker timber base (may have been spotted gum?). Problem is, the ghostly white finish on the rock maple was achieved using the Danish "soap finish" technique, which isn't very durable long term (and could get a bit foamy if someone spills liquid on it :rolleyes:). I'm hoping the PolyX 'Raw' might be a more durable alternative. It certainly came up very nicely on that oak table. I believe that the Kunos oil people also do a range which are tinted to create a wash kind of finish?

I made a quick video of applying this finish here it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBd89mM3vfo&t

Looks like someone is going to get a BEAUTIFUL table.

Brian

Thank you Mr Brush, yes Livos have the Kunos natural oil sealer in the white stain. one can manipulate the amount of pigments that get caught in the surface by the sanding grit. the finer the sand the less white as the pores glaze over not allowing the pigments to catch. it is a very light limed effect if you want to call it that but it is a way to keep lighter timbers in their original "unfinished" look. it is also a certified food and toy safe product.

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Originally Posted by hurcorh

I'm friends with the person i've made this table for so will be able to update over time how it goes. It has a large window nearby so we will soon know how it holds up to a bit of sunshine.

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Is it time for an update now, at 10 months?

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Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Is it time for an update now, at 10 months?

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I'll get them to send a few upclose shots to see how the finish is holding up.

It has yellowed which was something we were trying to avoid. In saying that, it isn't overly yellow. I will keep you posted.

Is the yellowing due to the finish or does timber usually yellow anyway?

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Originally Posted by qwertyu

Is the yellowing due to the finish or does timber usually yellow anyway?

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It can be both. Pale timber almost always yellows with exposure to light - I don't know of any timber that doesn't - but finishes can also yellow. Some oils for external use can have a deliberate yellow (or other) tint to try and keep out the UV, but really, very few are successful for more than a few months.

I've got another piece that was milled at the same time which didn't make the cut for the table. Near a window in the shed. Same color as when it got milled. Either the finish makes white oak yellow or the finish itself is yellowing. I'm interested to see both the underside of the table top and also what happens when another coat is applied after sanding..