casting resin questions

Hi all

Just getting to the final stages of a hall table from beautiful recycled Aussie mahogany (euc resinafera?) and I had a couple of questions about using resins to fill holes.

Dumb question 1. do you use the resin before sanding and other finishing?

Dumb question 2. If yes above, does sanding 'cloud' the surface of the resin? I want it quite clear?

Dumb question3. How on earth do you measure 2.5 ml that you need of the catalyst? Is it a few drops? Or should I try to get a syringe from a junkie? Or maybe a chemist? I understand that you need to be pretty accurate, but I'm not sure exactly how.

Thanks

Trav

Sorry don't know about DQ1&2, but syringes are freely available at chemists now. The only thing to check is the solvent compatability, but they are pretty resistant to most things, they do not handle chloroform or acetonitrile real well.

Sand the resin along with the rest of the project. The resin will appear clear when the final finish is applied, eg. varnish, etc.

If the resin is applied after the sanding it will never be as flat as the rest of the surface.

syringes are quite fine for epoxy hardners.
The only problem is cleaning them, so don't.
The chemist will look less funny at you if you explain what you need them for & specify that you don't require any sharps.
5mL syringes are a realy handy to have arround the workshop.
Want to ge some PVA into that cracked timber, easy with a syringe.

Is this abad time to mention I buy both 2ml and 5ml syringes as well as 20ml syringes by the box?

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Originally Posted by outback

Is this abad time to mention I buy both 2ml and 5ml syringes as well as 20ml syringes by the box?

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I have often wondered what drives you. :D :D

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Originally Posted by Trav

Dumb question 1. do you use the resin before sanding and other finishing?

Dumb question 2. does sanding 'cloud' the surface?

Dumb question3. How on earth do you measure.

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1. Use the resin before finishing, and before or during sanding (I use before final sanding). If you overcast, using well of puty etc, I've found it better to grind back majority of resin with dremmel or file. You can turn the resin also, but often at can fracture and you may need to recast small areas.
2. No. As Canfly says, it will become clear on finishing.
3. I tend to always mix too much and then get quantities right. Too little catalyst and you will have a sticky mess, too much also causes problems. Better to waist some than waist your time doing it all again.

With smaller cracks you could also use the thick CA glue with accelerator to save the resin, but on the other hand, CA costs more. With very big cracks/holes, remember to cast the resin in small layers, large pours will crack and pull away from the sides due to shrinkage.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Neil, what would you call a large pour.
I have some knots/nail holes to fill up some about the size of a 20c piece upto 10mm deep.

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Originally Posted by

I have often wondered what drives you. :D :D

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Yeh man, I just wake up in the morning and decide how big a kick start I need to face the world. :D

Thanks everyone.

Just to follow up on Harry72's comment, how big a hole is it before it becomes too much to pour in one go? I'm trying to make a feature out of a big knot in the wood - it is mostly filled by timber, but there is a fair bit of cavity there. Not quite as big as Harry72's hole, but close.

Trav

Interesting stuff to read about fellas. Never knew about resin until today.

Syringes can be picked up at your pharmacist but they wont give you needles, which is OK because glue and stuff just won't go through a needle *G*

Just a thought that measuring cups for various medicines would work too.

A syringe is a great tool to have as it allows you to precisely place the glue resin whatever on the job

Stevo

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Originally Posted by Harry72

what would you call a large pour ... I have some knots/nail holes to fill up some about the size of a 20c piece upto 10mm deep.

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That size should be no problem. I've read somewhere else you can pour up to 10mm thick and I've had no problems up to that size. I use Diggers clear casting resin from Bunnies. When you get too big you'll know it, especially if you have to much catalyst, but you can always pour some more to fill the cracks and/or shrinkage.

My local Bunnies stocks the Diggers Resin but not the catalyst and I got a blank look when I asked where the catalyst was.

A good place to get resin is a fibreglass shop. They normally have a wide range and will have an very good knowledge of pros and cons. Knowledge of these types of products is not normally found at my local Bunnings (though the product is!!).

Recently used resin to fill some knots and holes in a table I have been making. Once finish applied has come up outstanding. Used Epiglass HT9000, easy to use.

Good luck :)

I used pouring resin from a craft shop,

the knot holes I'm filling in are not not all that large but are deep. I poured the resin in stages so as to allow it time to cure.

One thing to look out for is to make sure you plug the other end of the hole if it goes tight through the timber. DAMHIK :eek: :rolleyes:

I haven't gotten around to sanding yet but decided to take the suck it and see aproach. I figure if it doesn't come out right then I can sart again.

Himzo

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Originally Posted by himzol

One thing to look out for is to make sure you plug the other end of the hole if it goes tight through the timber. DAMHIK :eek: :rolleyes:

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Resin is a pain like that, it will find the smallest pin hole. After I gave my lathe and workshop floor a coating of resin I learnt to always place a plastic container underneath. I use bluetak and/or tape often to well the resin, but you have to be so sure your seal is good.

Whats the differance between casting resin and normal fibreglass resin?

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Originally Posted by Harry72

Whats the differance between casting resin and normal fibreglass resin?

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The casting resin is completely clear whereas some fibreglass resins can be opaque.

I have brought my resin supplies from Polymer Daystar in Victoria and found the people their really have wealth of info about resin casting etc. For accurate catalyst adding I was supplied a thing called, wait for it, a "Catalist dispenser". This is a "technical" name for what I think is otherwise called a "Pippet" which is similar to the thing you would to dispense eye or ear drops with. It has markings on the outside to indicate how much has been drawn up into it (in ml). Very simple and inexpensive too.

VIC
Tel: 03 9793 5444
Email: [email protected]

NSW
Tel: 02 9533 9222
Email: [email protected]

Opps and the web address is:

www.polymerstar.com

Thanks for the contact details Harry, could be useful for me one day.


Cheers..........Sean, casting aspersions

Harry, no such website?

he meant to write www.polymerdaystar.com

I bought some non-sterile syringes from Livingstone first aid supplies on the internet. they only cost 8 cents for 3 & 5ml units.
The 60ml syring is 61 cents (now thats a syringe!)
Also wooden tongue depressors are $1.32 for 100 and they make great mixing paddles/applicators

how long ago did you get em off Livingstone , site seems dead ?
If this is the right place Im looking at . I need to do some very small castings and Bunnies didn't have the syringes with the rest of the kit today !
http://www.livingstone.com.au/

Found another mob that'll be useful to us...
http://www.solidsolutions.com.au/index.htm

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Originally Posted by Harry72

Found another mob that'll be useful to us...
http://www.solidsolutions.com.au/index.htm

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Thanks Harry72, exactly what I was after.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by barryr

how long ago did you get em off Livingstone , site seems dead ?
If this is the right place Im looking at . I need to do some very small castings and Bunnies didn't have the syringes with the rest of the kit today !
http://www.livingstone.com.au/

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hmm , seems to be working now !

HI Guys
I have had great results from Wests Resin from Carba Tec - have poured & filled some pretty big holes (ant eaten & bark inclusions)
Haven't used the sawdust idea, cos I like to make a feature of the resin in the piece.
Have used dyes to colour the resin for effect - gold, white, black.......
The dyes need to be compatible - got them from Barnes Moulding & Casting Supplies - for their addresses go here:
http://www.barnesproducts.com.au/barnescontact.htm
Here are a couple of pieces where I used the resin. The 2 burl pieces are clear resin, the purple heart has white dye. The white looks a bit like Ivory.... :D
Have fun
Peter
Happyinsydney