Is plywood safe for indoor use?

Hi,

Sorry, first time poster. I've been googling around and searching the forums trying to find answers but thought I would ask anyway

I want to build a large box to sit inside of around my office desk and chair at home - kind of a sensory deprivation box if you will - it will be located in my bedroom so I don't want to be killing myself while either in the box or sleeping at night so any gasses or emissions are a big concern

In terms of materials I was thinking plywood but of course am concerned about any potential off-gassing of toxic fumes

From what I have read I would be best to use pressure pressed exterior plywood or something rated E0? Does that sound correct? As interior plywood is apparently made with cheaper glues

I am not planning to seal the plywood unless absolutely necessary. I considered using plasterboard but as there will be hinges for access doors on it that is not a suitable long-term material as it will wear out

Any insight would be apprecaited

Why not just save on doubling up...buy a coffin:wink:....forever useful.

haha too luxurious!

Seems bunnings doesn't have any plywood on their website now though there was some a couple of days ago - Might as well go fishing

Interior plywood is used for furniture, sometimes laminated with a nice timber and for kitchen cabinets et al.
All my interior walls are plywood (timber house), so I believe you would be safe

Exterior grade ply would be even worse than interior ply. The fumes given off by exterior grade glues would be enough to send you rushing for a dose of fresh air. Then you say there are hinges and doors, doesnt sound like there is going to be much air flow. May be better to avoid man made products and stick with natural timber.
The coffin idea isn't a bad one. They only become expensive in highgrade design or fitted out. Have you thought about the second hand market?:;

Some exterior ply is also termite treated.

All types of interior or exterior ply made in Australia are glued with either an A, B, C or D gluebond - all are done using a formaldehyde glue and the difference is how well the glue stands up to heat and water. A is an exterior grade bond (phenol-formaldehyde), B is limited exposure (melamine fortified urea formaldehyde) and C and D are simply urea formaldehyde glues.

Plywood, X-Board Plus, Timber Veneer, MDF, Particleboard: Facts About Plywood

Personally I'd shy away from the very cheap imported products for a small enclosed box and use something from a more well known Australian supplier. You should even be able to pick up the horrible random grooved woodgrain ply wall panels fairly cheaply and nail them to a stud frame.

You can pick the phenol-formaldehyde glues by eye as they have a very dark brown/black glueline.

The glue line is only part of the problem. Veneers for ply manufacture are usually treated for borer attack.
These chemicals can be just as nasty as the glue. Imported ply may have undergone fumigation. just because a product is manufactured in Australia doesnt mean it is free of hazard. Much of what is pressed here has imported cheap veneers of unknown history.

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Originally Posted by Master Splinter

You should even be able to pick up the horrible random grooved woodgrain ply wall panels fairly cheaply and nail them to a stud frame..

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I was told they don't make them anymore.
When we bought the house all the walls were covered in that (shudder)

Thanks for all of the replies. It pretty much is sounding like ply is out and natural timbers are the way to go.

I am going to admit I really don't have much of an idea in what I am doing. If someone has a suggestion on a type of natural timber to use or the name of a recommended supplier I would be all ears. I am in Melbourne

Also I have been looking for the type of wood used inside saunas - the logic being that it's under stressful environmental conditions and various facilities arn't worried about getting sued for using it. Western Red Ceder seems to be what they use

At this point I am open to suggestions of how to do it though!

Western Red Cedar contains plicatic acid which is known to cause an allergic reaction in some people, so long term exposure might not be a good idea.

My general rule of thumb is that if you are looking for 'safe' timbers, you need to look at the least durable timbers (ie the ones that termites and borers and fungi and moulds love), as the most durable timbers don't have a 'most durable' rating because of some gentleman's handshake agreement with the bugs...nope, they are most durable as they have an efficient armoury of toxic chemicals that kill off bugs and fungi that try to make a meal from them.

Pine is generally a good starting point!

Do some research on Paulownia. Having read the earlier suggestions including use for a sauna I believe it ticks all the boxes. I used to grow and sell it so maybe a bit biased. However it is a light weight and coloured timber that is easy to work with. It is lighter than WRC but just a strong. The employees at the big sawmill don't wear any protective apparatus when milling and processing the timber. Nor did I. Port Phillip Plantation Shutters sells it in Melbourne.

Whitewood

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Originally Posted by casualmondaus

I am going to admit I really don't have much of an idea in what I am doing. If someone has a suggestion on a type of natural timber to use or the name of a recommended supplier I would be all ears. I am in Melbourne

At this point I am open to suggestions of how to do it though!

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if you're looking to avoid the POS syndrome, perhaps a simple frame draped with a sheet or blanket is the go

Thanks, I'll have a look into Paulownia. Could be a possibility

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Originally Posted by ian

if you're looking to avoid the POS syndrome, perhaps a simple frame draped with a sheet or blanket is the go

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I should have mentioned it in an earlier post but it needs to keep a reasonable amount of the noise from inside the box from escaping the room - I realise this is all sounding a bit weird. I'm not fussed if it looks like a POS ;) It's going to be about 19sqm (excluding the floor area) so a frame draped in blankets that would muffle noise would still add up in price going down that road

After reading some about Perspex safety I'm wondering if that might be the go.. though it's getting away from being wood work related

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Originally Posted by casualmondaus

I should have mentioned it in an earlier post but it needs to keep a reasonable amount of the noise from inside the box from escaping the room - I realise this is all sounding a bit weird.

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yes it is
why can't you wear head phones or just shut the door?

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I'm not fussed if it looks like a POS

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I meant POS = parent over shoulder


this is sounding more and more like a HSC assignment

If you want to stop noise getting out you will need a lot more than a sheet of plain ply wood because if the structure is too light it will just act as a resonator. You will need something quite heavy like thick (I'm talking 30 mm+) timber probably a double layer of 18 mm ply or MDF with a layer of something able to absorb noise in between. You could line the inside with carpet but that will muffle the sounds inside the box (presumably you want to make music inside the box?) You will also need the same on the floor.

BTW I reckon your biggest risk by far associated with this project will be the drive to the hardware store to pick up the timber.

Skip the crude ply box. How shabby. Think outside the box.
Noise-cancelling hearing protectors have nearly been perfected
for the trap/skeet shooting sports. No fooling, they really do work.
6 x 10^9 trap shells were sold in the USA alone in 2010.

I still use my 'muffs from my Unlimited Handgun IHMSA days
7mm/.308 full length cartridge in a pistol is a handful.

I tell ya, some days, that silence is very nearly priceless.
No, I don't know where my ex lives.

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Originally Posted by Robson Valley

Skip the crude ply box. How shabby. Think outside the box.
Noise-cancelling hearing protectors . . . .

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I think he wants to make a noise inside the box and stop it getting out - not stop noise getting in.

Hmmm.... ventilation? Farting? You are a fruit loop mate! I think I may need to build one too!!!!!!:C

like ...

why does the OP need a box at all ?
making a box sound proof requires a minimum of 6 sides which in turn requires the box be ventilated
An open front box will just bounce sound arround
and if the generated noise is loud enough it will be transmitted through the walls and floor of the room


for this assignment, I think the OP needs to provide a bit more detail of what will be going on inside the box and why shutting the door to the room is not enough