tung oil finish!

I have read the Sam Maloof recipe, tung oil, boiled linseed and varnish, however my question is...it says to use raw tung oil and I have read that raw tung oil takes a loooong time to dry. What I am guessing is that the varnish and the driers in the boiled linseed oil will help the raw tung oil to dry am I right in thinking this way???
I am also guessing that this finish would be better wearing than just a raw tung oil finish.
Also wondering if anyone knows how the Sa,m Maloof finish goes for water resistence etc. eg coffee cup marks. Some advice would be much appreciated Thanks:U

mate

I am keen to hear from others too as I am starting to think about finishes for my bench.

I have always used Danish oil on most of my picture frames, boxes and Toolbox I have built. I read the can and they say that Danish oil is a blend of Tung Oil.

Interestingly the manufacturer states that their Danish oil is not suitable for table/bench tops? They recomend one of their other products but for my mind Danish oil will be absolutley fine for a workbench.

It was mentioned to me that the Boiled Linseed/Turps/Varnish option is a great one but depending on your weather it does take some time to dry.

Keen to hear other opinions.

Cheers

Milo

For both your purposes, I would recommend Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil. This is Tung Oil mixed with "11 secret herbs and spices". Resistant to heat and moisture,wipes clean with "Spray and Wipe" or other kitchen cleaner. Applies easily (so long as you have a Random Orbital Sander) and food safe.:2tsup: Gives a great finish and dries quickly too!

Regards,

Rob

Thanks Milo and Rob for your replies,
I have heard the Organoil is good but did not realise it was tung oil based, I have just ordered some pure tung oil so I guess I will give the Maloof mix a go. I will be using Cabots floor poly gloss, pure tung oil and boiled linseed oil probabally with some turps for better penetration. Still not too sure how long this will take to dry I am hoping not too long, have heard you can add dryers for quicker drying finish but as I wrote in my last post, I am hoping the dryers in the linseed oil and maybe the poly will help it dry quicker.

Hello Bustler74,
There is a publication called "POLISHER'S HANDBOOK". Highly recommended. So far as the Maloof mix is concerned, my word of caution is to try it out on a scrap piece first, preferably the same wood. I would definitely recommend against adding dryers. Drillit.

Hey Drillit,
sounds like a good idea to try it out on a scrap piece first:2tsup: will check out the book you recommend cheers:)

Don't forget that Sam said wipe it on liberally and leave it for about 10-15 min then thoughly wipe of the excess. He did up to 5 or six coats and there is a second mix that goes on after it to finish with 3 coats.:D:D

SB

Hello Superbunny,
Thanks for your reply, but after much research have decided to try the Organoil Hard burnishing oil, have had some good reports.

I use a local product that I suspect is pretty similar to the Hard Burnishing Oil - it's basically a blend of tung oil, vege turps and driers. I used it on an oak dining table that gets used without a table cloth and has to put up with the worst that a pair of toddlers can throw at it. It seems to work very well indeed, and has been resistant to moisture and hot mugs etc so far.

So how would you guys say this Maloof mix and Hard Burnishing Oil compare to Waterlox, which is a tung blend I believe?

Sorry if this is a thread jack. Just seemed pertinent to the topic.

Hey NZ stu,
Thanks for your reply, sounds like the tung oil burnishing oil mixes are pretty good. Did you use the random orbital sanding burnishing method od did you do it by hand?
In reply to Fricasseekid's question, I am not familiar with waterlox...so I cant comment sorry.:)

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Originally Posted by bustler74

Hey NZ stu,
Thanks for your reply, sounds like the tung oil burnishing oil mixes are pretty good. Did you use the random orbital sanding burnishing method od did you do it by hand?

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I basically dry sanded to 320 grit, applied a couple of coats of oil, then wet sanded (by hand, using the oil as a lubricant) through 400-600-800-1200 grit.

I not sure whether the same technique would work with the organoil though: they tend to say that you should follow thier method to the letter.

How many Stuarts are on this forum?!

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Originally Posted by Fricasseekid

How many Stuarts are on this forum?!

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Quite a few. We're not far off getting to this level: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f_p0CgPeyA]Monty Python - Bruce - YouTube[/ame]

I have used a Tung oil based product (Feast Watson Floor Seal) and a couple of other manufacturers products for many years now. As to the proportion of raw Tung oil, to poly, or over ingredients I have no idea. I have used these products in my kitchen, benchtops, doors which are likely to get splashed with water (ie. close to sink/stove), splashbacks, vanity unit in bathroom and also on the floors throughout my two houses. I am not really a fan of linseed oil, as from my experience it is slow drying, messy, and doesn't wear very well at all.

The one thing I find with the Tung oil product is that it is pretty durable, and importantly doesn't seem to be affected by heat or water as a rule. The other good thing about it, is that if marked, it is so easy to repair. A light scratching back with sandpaper and a re-coat and it is good as gold.

I do need to qualify these remarks by saying that my kitchen benchtop at home now does show some considerable wear, and a little water damage, but that is some 10 years since it was originally applied and then and only immediately around the sink edge. Overall I am impressed and once I have sanded the benchtop back will re-coat with 2-3 coats of the same product and I am confident all will be fine.

I did try the organo-oil around the benchtops either side of my stove, and it too has held up superbly. All I ever seem to need to do is give it the occasional bees wax polish and it too remains looking good. I would be keen to try this product again also. I do though tend not to allow water to sit on the surface for long and I am also careful about putting hot pots/pans etc directly onto the surface.

Hey NZ Stu,
Thanks for the feedback on the technique you used to apply the oil.
Thanks also Horsecroft 88 for your feedback on the use of tung oil products, the feedback is much appreciated:2tsup:

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Originally Posted by NZStu

Quite a few. We're not far off getting to this level: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f_p0CgPeyA]Monty Python - Bruce - YouTube[/ame]

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Well count me in! William
Stuart here! :)

As long as we don't include those weird Stewarts. I just don't know what to make of someone with an "ew" in their name.