Minimum requirements for spray finish

Hi. Can anyone tell me what is the simplest possible approach to spray finishing. I'm looking for a process which will apply a clear finish to timber - furniture and small objects (boxes etc). I'd like it to be a professional looking finish though.

I'm not after the full detail - I just want to be steered in the direction of the simplest approach and I will google the detail. I guess I"m after real, non-book advice from people who arent trying to flog gear or have a vested interest in making it more complicated then it is.

ps. I've done the searches. I know there is a vast amount of information about spary finishing on this site, but I cant find any post which addresses this question in the simplest possible form.

looking forward to responses.
Arron

Lacquer is probably the easiest. Flows well, easy through the gun, quick drying, easy recoat and can be repaired later if damaged.

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Originally Posted by rustynail

Lacquer is probably the easiest. Flows well, easy through the gun, quick drying, easy recoat and can be repaired later if damaged.

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OK, I take it you're meaning nitrocellulose lacquer. Is that right ?
If so, would Mirotone be a good example?
Cheers
Arron

Thats right.

Wattly stylewood is also good and comes in a variety of gloss levels.

Spend as much as you can on a good gun and get a regulator that can be attached to the gun so that you know exactly what pressure you are using.

Having a regulator at th compressor does not allow for pressure drop in the lines.

OK, thanks for the answers so far. I'm going to proceed with nitrocellulose lacquer - at least to the point of some experimentation. Now I'm thinking about equipment.

What I have is a small compressor - I think its a 1 horsepower one. Just a cheapie that I bought at KMart a few years ago. Is that good enough ?

I have an outdoor shed. Actually, its a shadehouse so it has a polycarbonate roof and shadecloth sides. I'm thinking this will have lots of flow-through ventilation without much dust and it has a door so I can keep the bugs out. Would that be a good spot to modify for spraying ?

And for spray guns, I'm really not in a position to go out and buy a good gun at this time so I emptied out my cupboard of power tools I dont use and came up with what is in the attached photo. Is there anything there I can use with nitrolac. I guess I"m asking this question at two levels:
Q1. Is there anything there that will do a good job with nitroac?
Q2. If they are really not up to doing a good job, is there anything there that will at least allow me to get a feel for the process and have a bit of practice?

cheers and thanks
Arron

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Originally Posted by Arron

Hi. Can anyone tell me what is the simplest possible approach to spray finishing. I'm looking for a process which will apply a clear finish to timber - furniture and small objects (boxes etc). I'd like it to be a professional looking finish though.

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the simpliest possible approach would have to be pressure pack cans

If you have a largish area to cover they could be very expensive, but it doesn't get much simplier
the finish is pre-mixed to the viscosity required
for boxes, made one or two at a time, they might even work out cheaper than a spray gun, especially when you factor in time and no materials needed to clean teh equipment

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Originally Posted by Arron

OK, thanks for the answers so far. I'm going to proceed with nitrocellulose lacquer - at least to the point of some experimentation. Now I'm thinking about equipment.

What I have is a small compressor - I think its a 1 horsepower one. Just a cheapie that I bought at KMart a few years ago. Is that good enough ?

And for spray guns, I'm really not in a position to go out and buy a good gun at this time so I emptied out my cupboard of power tools I dont use and came up with what is in the attached photo. Is there anything there I can use with nitrolac. I guess I"m asking this question at two levels:
Q1. Is there anything there that will do a good job with nitroac?
Q2. If they are really not up to doing a good job, is there anything there that will at least allow me to get a feel for the process and have a bit of practice?

cheers and thanks
Arron

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Arron
you have an airless spray kit among your goodies -- the thing with a cord attached
the other guns are pressure pots of one sort or another -- from here I can't tell what sorts

some years ago I asked North West Tools about setting up to spray finishes. The cost of an adequate compressor made me blink. A K-Mart compressor designed for inflating car and bike tyres may not have the oomph to deliver much more than dribbles of finish -- if you're doing a table top say, ideally you need enough air to spray the whole top before the tank starts refilling.

Can I suggest you google HVLP equipment for Nitro lacquer ?
ty

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Originally Posted by ian

Arron
you have an airless spray kit among your goodies -- the thing with a cord attached
the other guns are pressure pots of one sort or another -- from here I can't tell what sorts

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Is it possible to use the airless spray outfit for nitrolac - or is it too crude ?

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Originally Posted by ian

the simpliest possible approach would have to be pressure pack cans

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thats a brilliant idea. I just went out to the Wattyl Pro shop in Yagoona and bought a can. Its a bit expensive to use a lot of cans ($21 per can) but it will allow me to go hands-on with the product before shelling out money for spray gear.

cheers
Arron

Arron, The cans are great for touch up work, but you cant get the control that is possible with a gun. Your airless may not be the most elite bit of kit, but will do the job. The guns in the photo are ok, but your compressor is going to be cutting in and out during application on larger jobs. For initial trials what you have would do. Spraying lacquer isnt rocket science.

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Originally Posted by rustynail

Arron, The cans are great for touch up work, but you cant get the control that is possible with a gun. Your airless may not be the most elite bit of kit, but will do the job. The guns in the photo are ok, but your compressor is going to be cutting in and out during application on larger jobs. For initial trials what you have would do. Spraying lacquer isnt rocket science.

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yes, I've been playing around with the spray can this afternoon and I"m amazed at the results - like how good they are. Clearly its a very tolerant system.

Like most people, I've put off getting into spraying seriously because I gave it a go a few years ago with your typical low end suction pot gun and typical DIY poly from Bunnings and the results were - of course - horrible. Therefore I assumed spraying was a black art that only very special people could master.

I had a closer look at my compressor today - its 2 hp not 1 hp, so I guess it'll be OK to get me started on small things. In the weekend I"ll purchase an HVLP gun and get playing.

thanks to all for your help and guidance.
cheers
Arron

Hi Arron
some more things for you to consider
the compressor -- the horsepower of is less important than the tank capacity -- spraying a finish generally needs a lot of air
I'll let you google for more info, but you will probably need to add a dryer and oil filter to your air line -- preferably close to the gun to prevent the finish becoming contaminated by water and oil. Previous posts on the topic of spraying suggest that combined oil filters/dryers are not as effective as separate filters. If I recall correctly good filters are expensive.

I'm not sure if you're planning to use a solvent or water based finish -- either way practice your spraying technique with the solvent not the actual finish

Ventilation
you mentioned using a shade structure as a spray booth
I'd be concerned with gunk on the inside of the shade cloth contaminating the finish
If you're using a solvent based finish I suggest you add a reasonably large fan to provide ventilation away from yourself as you spray

PPE -- get yourself a mask and googles rated for the solvent/finish you're planning to use

Well I was planning to purchase some nitrocellulose lacquer (Wattyl Stylwood) but now I'm wondering whether I should be using an acrylic. I saw some 3M clear acrylic lacquer in Supercheap Auto today. Which would be the better choice for me ?

thanks for all the other tips
cheers
Arron

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Originally Posted by Arron

Well I was planning to purchase some nitrocellulose lacquer (Wattyl Stylwood) but now I'm wondering whether I should be using an acrylic. I saw some 3M clear acrylic lacquer in Supercheap Auto today. Which would be the better choice for me ?

thanks for all the other tips
cheers
Arron

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The clear acrylic lacquer you saw at SCA is probably for "clear over base" automotive work, ie for use on metal.

As you are spraying wood this may not be flexible enough for your application, wood has a lot more movement than metal.

To make sure, read the lable of the clear acrylic and see whether it is recommended for use on wood.

Gday.............have a gander at my spray finish and attached notes!.......final job (I have been told and can see and feel)........is perfect...........permanent........bullet proof..........and materials prices and equipment reasonable.
Also have a mate here doing beautiful swamp gum bandsaw boxes.....also beautifully finished semi matt.......using simple aerosol cans using same product!

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Originally Posted by Arron

Well I was planning to purchase some nitrocellulose lacquer (Wattyl Stylwood) but now I'm wondering whether I should be using an acrylic. I saw some 3M clear acrylic lacquer in Supercheap Auto today. Which would be the better choice for me ?

thanks for all the other tips
cheers
Arron

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Arron, the best choice for you?
I'm beginning to wonder if it might not be spray cans or a water based finish.

the cost of setting up to spray small objects safely with a petoleum solvent based finish (knock-down spray booth, water and oil filters, regulator, exhaust fan, PPE, etc) is possibly equivalent to buying 100 spray cans -- setting up for a water based finish should be considerably less expensive

if you're mainly making boxes, maybe shellac and/or a wiping varnish is your best option

Perhaps send the occasional large item, like a table top to a commercial finisher?


That said, the best finishing results seem to come from choosing one or at most two products/process and stick with them. Practice will make you very good at whichever finish you go with.

I think learning to spray properly is an idea worth pursuing regardless.

If setup is a little cheaper and easier for acrylic lacquer then Ill head that way. Last question - can anyone recommend a good water based clear lacquer ?

Arron

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Originally Posted by Big Shed

The clear acrylic lacquer you saw at SCA is probably for "clear over base" automotive work, ie for use on metal.

As you are spraying wood this may not be flexible enough for your application, wood has a lot more movement than metal.

To make sure, read the lable of the clear acrylic and see whether it is recommended for use on wood.

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This is the product here 3M Acrylic Paint - Clear, 4Lt - Supercheap Auto Australia.
It says that its suitable for most surfaces - which still leaves me wondering about wood. anyone familiar with it?

arron

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Originally Posted by Arron

I think learning to spray properly is an idea worth pursuing regardless.

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admirable sediment

don't forget to post back with photos.

sorry I can't help with a suitable water based sprayable acrylic