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Hi all, have just finished a project and it took a good deal of time (and patients) to achieve a good finish in the internal radius's and holes (highlighted in blue) shown in the attached image. The problem is made worse by the fact that I am dealing with ply end grain:C
Does anyone know if there is a tool to make this easier:?
Thank you
I think its called sandpaper! :C
(And you prolly should use patience not sick people! :secret: )
Hi, pretty much an expert (now) on sandpaper. Patients well that's a spell check thing but point taken.Quote:
Originally Posted by tea lady
Had much experience sanding wide (600mm+) ply, end grain with small internal radius's? might not be so flippant if you had.
Not big on sarcasm:no:
anyone got anything constructive, it would be appreciated.
Thanks
Its going to be hard now everthing is glued up. In hindsight it probably would have been a good idea to bobbin sand while the pieces were apart/ Of course it would still have needed a final sand after glue
up. I guess hindsight is nearly as bad as sarcasm at this stage. All jokes aside, I think Tea lady is pretty much on the mark. Something that may help is to dampen with a little metholated spirits. This quickly raises the grain and evaporates, making sanding easier. It also assists when polishing as it does the grain lifting that the first coates of finish would cause. The only other option would be grain filler.
Well TL consider yourself told , flippant comment stating the obvious, with humor
What is this forum coming to , no flippiancy allowed :rolleyes:
( should we patient that )
Perhaps one of these then? (Sanding can make my sense of humor wander off too! )
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...fyqYT0Y0df_IIf
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/0/4...-12-Piece.aspx
They're no good TL, that's still using sandpaper and we ain't allowed to suggest sandpaper. :UQuote:
Originally Posted by tea lady
Peter.
"Let he who is without sin cast the first stone" spoke JC:oo:
or be sarcastic.:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Sturdee
Hi Laya,
I saw your photos in your other post for finishing, looks really beautiful.
I once had to do a similar curved sanding within a tight space, I adapted a piece of PVC pipe which fitted to my drill (using other bits of plumbing fittings) I then used spray glue to adhere the sandpaper to the pipe, once the sandpaper was spent I scraped it with a knife and cleaned with minerial turps then re-glued a new sheet of sandpaper.
Due to the length you need to sand you will probably need a guide at the opposite end.
Although this doesn't get away with the sandpaper it does take a bit of the elbow grease away
How are the pieces cut in the first place? Laser cut? Or band saw? Maybe you could use a different blade to get a better cut edge. (Skip tooth blades are the go.:cool: ) Tear out is harder to get rid of than make! Or sandwich the ply between some waste wood? Or masking tape along the cutting line? :think:
Oh! Found your other thread and you mention that it is cut by CNC. You also mention that you started with 40# sand paper. That is too course. I have no idea what that would usually be used for. :C Start with 80# maybe. Or 100#. Go up the grits in stages till its as fine as you want. Also there are sand papers and sand papers. If the wood is hard you need the good expensive stuff cos with the cheep stuff the grit will come off the paper before it makes a dint in the wood. :C
Good luck with the show! :2tsup:
That grit is usually used for floor sanding on those sanding machines. Designed to even the floor boards, prior to moving to a higher grit, like 60. :UQuote:
Originally Posted by tea lady
Also good for flattening the sole plates of planes if they are badly pitted but for woodworking a definite no no.
Peter.
Unless you have old boards with several layers of paint, then you start ar 40#, have a good breathing mask though.
40 grit is much too course, no wonder you're getting the tom tits. With paper that course you are making a rough surface rather than getting rid of one. Start at about 80 grit. Investing in good quality abrasive is the trick here. You will get better cut and longer life.
the motor industry has the tool you need, it's used for polishing the inside of engine cylinders. The model I've seen used was driven with an electric drill.
sorry, but I'm not sure what it's called nor the number of sizes available
Your proberly talking about a flexi-hone, but its for removing metal and wouldn't be of any use here, plus their bloody expensive
you may be right, but the tool I recall could have been modified to work wood by glueing sand paper to the paddles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashore
What about these bristle disks?
CWS Store - Scotchbrite Radial Bristle Discs | Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies
http://www.cws.au.com/persistent/cat...isc%20logo.jpg
Laya, I've also had a look at your other thread to see your finished work as a whole. Hand or powered sanders for simple curved surfaces are not available mainstream; and forget compound curves. You'll have to really dig deep to find what you want or make your own. The smaller bobbin sanders shown earlier are typical of what's available.
The first image shows a sander a luthier modified to sand the waists of a guitar. The blue piece is a very short length of foam rod typically used as a flotation device in swimming pools and commonly called foam spaghetti. The obvious flat side enables the transfer of the orbital motion from the sander plate. In this case the opposite side is untouched but there no reason why it couldn't be re-radiused to various curves. Indeed, you could make your own curved block the full size of the sanders pad from high density foam.