Wipe-on Poly on Huon Pine: Problems

Hi,
I have turned+carved a bowl in a very soft piece of Huon Pine (see attachment) and I decided to finish it with Wipe-On Poly (never used before).
I followed the instructions on the can to the letter but I am now in troubles.
I am at the third coat and although it has been drying for 3 days, it still feels wet and sticky.
I am even afraid to touch the bowl with my fingers!
Do you have any idea where I went wrong?
Is anybody there with experience on using Wipe-On Poly?
Any comment-suggestion is appreciated
Thanks a lot

Huon Pine is an oily timber and this may be your problem here causing the WOP not to dry. It's a good idea to wipe HP over with Meths before applying a finish to help absorb some of the oil. You may have been better off applying a finish something like tung oil. I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to make a better suggestion.
Atmospheric conditions can also slow up the drying process of a WOP finish.

Nice bowl by the way.

A sealer such as shellac is needed on Huon Pine before applying poly. John

What shall I do now? strip off the 3 coats of WOP and strart again?
Thanks for the help

Gosh that is a pickle. Looks like such a lovely piece in a lovely piece of timber.

I've used WOP on several projects with success but never on huon. And I've certainly have had oily problems with huon.

What I'd suggest, though no expert, would be to leave it for a few more days. This cold snap and rain wouldn't be helping. If it doesn't settle, strip it, re-sand it, wipe it with metho, and re-apply the WOP. Bummer.

By the way: I forgot to say earlier that I wiped the bowl with a clean cloth soaked in metho as first operation, to make sure there was no fine sanding leftover, and I used a generous amount of metho for that.
From what you guys are saying, I gather one should not apply WOP over a previous oil coating isn't it?
Cheers Maurizio

You could do as suggested above and leave it for a few days but if there is no improvement I think the only thing you can do is to sand it back to scratch removing all WOP and apply a coat of Dewaxed white shellac and finish with Traditional wax. Both these products are available from U-Beaut polishes

Carba-tec also carry the Ubeaut range of products.

Minwax make a finish remover that is supposed to be kinder to timber than paint strippers. I really don't know if this is true or how good it is, but it could be an easy option to remove the finish without doing any damage to your beautiful work. It's sold alongside Wipe On Poly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by munruben

apply a coat of Dewaxed white shellac and finish with Traditional wax.

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I'd second this recommendation. Dewaxed white shellac on Huon Pine all the way. It's never failed me and keeps the beautiful huon colour.

Beautiful bowl by the way. :2tsup:

Hi Guys,
In the end the WOP never dried completely so I took a deep breath and ....sanded it all over again (third time!) from 80 to 600 grit.
Now I am inclined to use Shellac but I never used it before so ...here are some questions:
- I have Shellac flakes: do I make my own Shellac or should I buy a ready made one? Which one?
- Do I apply Shellac with a brush or with a cloth?
- Where can I read a bit about using Shellac?
- Shall I add any stain to the Shellac?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks a lot for all your patience and wisdom.
Cheers Maurizio

Guys,
It sounds like you liked my bowl so I decided to post the picture of another one made with timber from the same log (I wish I had more!).
This one finished well in oil....sort of ...
Thanks
Maurizio

It's a bit late now but the number two rule after measure twice an cut once, is test your finish on an off cut. Especially on such a beautiful piece that must have taken much time and effort.
This is for other readers of this thred , you've probably worked this out the hard way.

Your bowls are stunning. As for finishing, you could paint the second one black for all I care and it would still be beautiful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pugwash

Your bowls are stunning. As for finishing, you could paint the second one black for all I care and it would still be beautiful.

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Wash your mouth out PW :; black in deed :~

Love the bowls by the way Maurizio :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:


Waht has been said about Huon and oily wood and WoP

Maybe you need a quicker drying finish for such items more like a spray on lacquer Timberlac or Wattle Style wood again a wipe prior spraying.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maurizio1955

Guys,
It sounds like you liked my bowl so I decided to post the picture of another one made with timber from the same log (I wish I had more!).
This one finished well in oil....sort of ...
Thanks
Maurizio

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Beautiful work, love it. :2tsup:
You can find a little information here regarding Shellac. Might be an idea to purchase This plenty of good advice there.

I have read of issues with poly over shellac. From what i have read its the wax in the shellac that can cause issues, this is why dewaxed shellac has been recommended, plus it has the advantage of keeping the HP colour rather than yellowing it.
Ubeaut sell a good dewaxed shellac. :2tsup::2tsup:

Personally, I would stick away from plastic finishes such as any sort of poly product for items such as these bowls, and agree a shellac and bees wax finish or alternatively tung oil, or organoil finish with waxing afterwards is the way to go.

Huon Pine, will always with age go yellow, that is the natural colour for such a timber, and I wouldn't fight it. IMO it looks much better anyway than the original cut and finished light colour that you get from a new piece.

Again, unless you wish to coat over a shellac finish with something like a poly product I see neither any advantage or necessity for a de-waxed shellac. Frankly from my experience, I have never needed this, nor if one were to wax it anyway once finished or if you were to use a oil based finish such as Tung oil etc can I see any logical reason why you would wish to use such a shellac. My $2 worth. Dave