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Due to the costliness of having a proffessional paint my project for me, I'm opting to use '2pack', as has been suggested to me by many parties. Could somebody please explain to me what this process is? What I understand is that it is a spray, but that is about it. How is it different from regular spray paint? Are there any skills/techniques/anything I should know before commencing?
2pack means that is made from 2 different liquids, one will be the paint and the other is the stuff that sets it off or hardens it. Means it has a short time till it goes off once it has been mixed and does usually require a fair bit of skill to paint as it goes off very quickly once it has been sprayed onto the surface.
Another thing to watch out for as well, is that most 2pack sprays are toxic and usually require very good respirators and spray booths
The only thing I disagree with DJ about is set time this depends on lots of ambient things and conditions. I would not spray 2 pack anywhere now, other than in enclosed spray booth fully geared up and suited up. It has been known to kill small animals should they be close enough to inhale fumes.
Come to think about it wasn't 2 Pac the singer also a killer.:rolleyes:
Well, as a student, I evidently do not have access to a spray booth.
What would you guys recommend (as an alternate finish)? Something relatively easy, not gonna kill me, and not too expensive.
Would regular spray paint work? If so, what type, and would I need to use anything before/after it (sealer, undercoat etc)
As you can tell, I'm very inexperienced in the area... :erm_smile:
No problem so was I when 2 pack first came out as where even the companies who supplied the stuff.
Ok this is the project your doing that great looking book nook I think.
Where are you in Sydney? I'm western suburbs.
Do you have access to a compressor and spray gun?
Do you know anyone in the panel beating trade??
A good quality automotive spray paint would look good one thats Enamel not 2 pack a litre would do you along with thinners. Yes and under coat would be required.
Ray
You might need to supply a bit more information for anyone to be able to offer any help.
What type of project is it ?
What have you built it out of ?
What level of protection does the finish need to have, ie: is it a table that will cop a lot of use and abuse, or is it something that is just for display ?
Do you want a high gloss finish or something that looks a bit more natural ?
Sorry for the third degree but without knowing what it is your trying to achieve...........
Correct, thats what I'm doing. Having plenty of trouble finding finishing solutions, so I'm just gonna do it myself (with the help of you forumers of course!)Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelinround
I'm in south (i think). Canterbury, Ashfield etc.
I MAY have access. A friends dad I did work experience with, I used one then, to apply laquer to strips of timber. I think that was a spray gun.
I do (uncle), problem being, he lives on the QLD border.Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelinround
So, an enamel based paint. Start off with a litre, which should be enough. Undercoat required (any recommendations?).
Its a book nook, and made from 18mm raw MDF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood
It doesn't really need a high level of protection. The main traffic will be on the seat, made of foam (obviosuly doesn't need painting :P )Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood
I'm thinking a natural look, closer to matte, rather than gloss. And I'm still unsure whether to paint it black or white. White would look nice, but get dirty easy, as well as match nothing in the room. Whereas black matches the TV, and my year 11 project.
Don't apologise! Its great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood
I've had good success using the cheap ($2) cans of auto spray from Super Cheap Auto on MDF.
First seal edges with Timbermate putty, sand smooth, then 2-3 coats of primer, then 3-4 coats of colour, rub back with sandpaper if necessary, more paint, then buff to a good gloss with either auto paint buffing compound or the forum sponsor's Ultra-Shine stuff.
Are you talking about the same stuff you use to fill countersunk holes? I've never heard of this technique before... (But, as i've said, I have essentially no experience)Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Splinter
Geez, thats a lot of coats, much thanks to MDF and its ability to absorb!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Splinter
I'm not after a shiny effect, more of a matte colour, so how would I finish up in that case?
Infact, would I be better off using a roller? I would get a more even finish that way wouldn't I?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerb
Depends on type of roller and paint used
Have a read of this fellows Blog
I know this might seem odd to some of you but I have had very good results with wattyl estipol sandind sealer under ( turps based) berger jet dry paving paint... both polyester.
all the sanding sealer coats can be done with a brush....the top coats...well depends on how good you are.....I have brushed it and sprayed it......roller would probaly work too
limited colour choice but it is tough and flows out well if thinned a bit.
and goes off pretty smartly
"Those free loaders will be walkin on it in 2 hours"
works best if rubed in with some 1200 wet & dry, followed by some u beaut wax.
just forget it is paving paint.
cheers
Yep, the Timbermate putty - thin it down a bit with water to make it easier to apply on the edges. Disclaimer - that's not what I use (I have a few litres of epoxy glue on hand, and that's now my preferred edge solution for a number of reasons...but I didn't think you'd want to spend an extra $35 buying a litre of botecote)
If you spray (and do it well enough) you can really cut back on the sanding required...but you really need a spray gun to do it with any decent quality. You can also put on a number of coats quickly as acrylic lacquers flash-off (solvent dry) in minutes.
My el-cheapo approach also involves soaking the spraycan in a sinkful of warm (50 degree-ish) water to improve atomisation and can pressure. Dry cans well before spraying!!
There's a very good car/spray painting guide here - http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-re-paint-a-car
And you'll find three coats is pretty much par for the course with spray - it can be even more with some types of paint, or if you are expecting to do a lot of buffing on the finish.
If you want a matte finish, you are best off finding some sort of textured coating - a proper matte marks too easily, so faking a matte with a textured semi-gloss is a more sensible approach.
I'll probably go with the roll, as its easier, and with not a lot of time left, I don't want to be dealing with any mistakes I make by not doing a good spray job (yes I know, I'm to blame for leaving it rather late)
And a textured semi you say? I shall look into it when I head to Bunnies next.
Agree with Soundman! A good tough product that provides a great looking finish.
Personally I like paint pads for such jobs. They don't leave marks.
A paint pad and Jet Dry and work quickly.
if you want a good solid edge on MDF..forget tryung to fill it with anything other than the sanding sealer or undercoat.
if I am working on MDF....I will usually edge round because sharp edges in MDF are vunerable.
I will sand the edges reasonably well..then I will go arround the edges with sanding sealer or undercoat.....probaly two laps of the edges...yeh it will suck it up.....I'll the do one coat of the faces.......let it dry well
Sand again..then recoat the edges and then the faces.....if it is a flat piece and you have to turn it over to paint the other side...good do the edges both times.
the edges of mdf will choke up well with a few coats...and because the dege grain has absorbed a lot of finish it makes it tough and hard.
i've tried timbermate, variuos glues and such...the sealer or undercoat is the best and there are no compatability issues, nothing to flake off or come away and one homogenios finish product.
If you cant get a real regular mark free finish....top off with a spatter coat of the same product.....long distance brush flicking or such...but the best is lowering the air preasure in your spray gun till it spatters or orange peels...this way you can get a variety of finishes from satin to chunky spatter.
cheers
cheers
If you are after a basic colour, go to supercheap auto and get yourself some of the 3M quick dry enamel. Comes in 1 and 4 litre tins, rolls out nice and can be sprayed too. With MDF I'd go for 2 coats of primer if rolling, and 3 if spraying, with an extra coat on the edges with either method.
DO NOT USE 2PK if you have never sprayed before and do not have the right safety gear, I found this out the hard way after my auntie found me unconcious on her shed floor after using normal spray painting filters in my mask and a 'she'll be right attitude'!!!
Sand the primer with 400 between coats and 600 before colour goes on. I would not recomend sanding enamel between coats, but if you use arcrylic then you can hit it with 600-800 between coats if needed.
Just make sure you pay close attention to the cut edges of MDF, paint jobs will epic fail if not done right, once again found out the hard way having to strip back a few speaker boxes and start again.
90% of what I make is MDF based and the methods described ^^^ have served me well. Shout out if you need any more advice.