Trying to scam?

I got a quote done for tiling the bathroom and laying yellow tongue in the kitchen, but not finishing it off... I will break it down for ya's.

BATHROOM
Preperation of floor: $80
Laying tiles, toilet cut in, and plumbing cuts : $248.56
Waterproofing : $ 150.32
PLUS
Tileback x3 Sheets, adhesive, Caulk'n : $ 183.45
Wall tiles 6sqmt
Floor tiles 3.4sqmt
**I will be purchasing the tiles myself, so they gave me the sqmterage**

KITCHEN
Lay only $240
PLUS
Adhesive, Nails, Hire Cost of Nail Gun: $135
yellow tongue 13.20sqmt (again I am purchasing this myself)

Now if that all sounds ok to you all, then I guess they are fair dinkum, BUT when he was here, and we were talking about the yellow tongue, I just asked him if he could lay it for me and he says "yeah I can go around with me nail gun"........
BUT... puts the cost of HIRING???? the nail gun in the quote.

Should I trust this bloke???

Gemi,

IMO any decent tradesman in the building trade will have his own nail gun. I think he might be padding out the quote as its a small job.

Dan

Hi Gemi,
Maybe the poor b***** thought he was dealing with the typical bohemian female that use to inhabit places like Bridgy :D
More fool him :p

Seriously tho, it appears from the quote provided that he is charging approx $70.50 per sqm, if ur measurements are correct.
Seems a bit rich to me if u are supplying most of the gear........did you ask him to supply an hourly rate instead?
A fair bit of work or sqm can be covered in an hour......might pay to leave it for a few days and ask him to supply one.....he might have forgotten you ;)
After he has provided both quotes........ask for his cash price:eek:
Im off on the happy home renovation road myself ......so please let me know what happens.
cheers
Steve

I think you're being done. If that is the guy you said charged $ 25 per hour (in a previous post) then it will take him about a bit over 9 hours to lay 4 or 5 sheets of yellow tongue without nailing it down? :eek:

Why don't you do it yourself - tiling is not difficult and laying the yellow tongue is not hard either.

Peter.

Hi Sturdee,

This is a different bloke.

What gets me is he says he can easily nail it down with his nail gun, then the cheeky bugga puts in the quote costing to hire one...

just doesn't sound right.

I think I will do the kitchen myself, but don't feel confident with the bathroom tiling.

Maglite, I did hear that bridgy was full of ummm really swanky girls LOL
DanP, I agree

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gemi_babe

I think I will do the kitchen myself, but don't feel confident with the bathroom tiling.

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DO have a go at the tiling, it really is not difficult.

Invest in a reasonable quality tile cutter to make life easier (savings will pay for it)

You can draw a grid on the wall to help with placement and to verify that your line of tiles matches up (if doing the whole room). Nail a level baton one tile from floor and start tiling from this, fill in the gap at bottom after glue has dried and baton removed.

Leave a gap at all junctions (corners, floor etc) of about 6mm to be filled with a flexible filler, not grout. That way movement taken care of.

Lots of information on the web.

Thanks zymurgy, I will research it and weigh up the costs of doing it myself. I will get 2 more quotes first, to see how they differ.

I don't have a spillage drain in the middle of the bathroom floor (don't ask y, I don't know either) so that has to be cut in too....

This house, I tell ya, is going to be brand new by the time I'm finished with it LMAO

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gemi_babe

I don't have a spillage drain in the middle of the bathroom floor (don't ask y, I don't know either) so that has to be cut in too....

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Why ?? We don't have any either in both our bathrooms. Never had any problems with water spillage. Water is too scarce to spill. :D

Also invest in a cheap $ 20 angle grinder and a tile cutting blade. Makes cutting corners out of tiles and holes for taps so much easier and is necessary for cutting the floor tiles.

BTW pick up a Mitre 10 project sheet on tiling. :D


Peter.

I thought that too Peter.
How come I dont got a drain hole in the middle of me floor? :mad: :mad:
I might just cut me one tomorrow!! :D

Al

Get a few more quote. When I needed a tiler, I got 5 quotes.
Prices where $1250, 3200,3400, 3500 and ....6400. :eek:

I discarded both ends of the spectrum and got the 3200. A real gem, if you need a tiler in Sydney let me know.

As for the hiring of the nail gun ..... pleeeese what a cheap trick. You are lucky he did not include the PURCHASE of the gun hehe how many flooring sheet do you need to nail? 20? What's wrong with a hammer ?

As for a tiler having his own nail gun, I disagree. If he is a tiler he is not a carpenter, and I know a few carpenters that do not own a nail gun either, just a couple of hammer.
And... if he is a 'factotum', well, get a tiler.

I have a 4yr old and bathtimes can get a little messy Sturdee, I need a spillage drain (they are called something else)

Thanks also for the mitre 10 tip ;) :D LOL

Gemi, rather than tile you can put up HardieGlaze board. It comes in a few different looks including look-a-like tiles. There is also another brand which slips my mind at the moment (SWMBO says Laminex brand, god love her) which has more colours/finishes. Some battens/props, stays and a truck load of construction adhesive. If you can drive a spirit level you can put this stuff up. Its on the web somewhere....

We saved a bucket load on tiles and a tiler and it is much easier to live with, no grout, easy clean, can be drilled and cut like hardie board, in fact thats what it is with a waterproof liner. Only thing is to be careful and seal the edges with silicone at the end. Best mounted on stud frame construction. I think you remember the pic's I posted.

Cheers

Squizzy,
Isn't that called Lamipanel or something similar ???? never used it myself always have done my own tiling - Gemi the 1st time I tiled (back in '78 :):)) I shat myself before undertaking the job - once I got started it was a breeze and when I had finished, had wondered why I had worried about it so much - really once you get it set out it is very easy. Get as much reading material/info etc you can on it and the rest is really quite easy. The Diamond blades for angle grinders these days make it very easy too. ( a lot of dust though so make sure you cut them outside and also cut them from the back when you are cuttin holes for tap outlets etc )
Give it a go really you will be surprised how easy it is.

Pete, I think it is called Lami something, you can find it online. I remember doing tiling, should have got me on Australia's Funniest Home Videos:D . I think there's still some tiles stuck to the back of me head!. (that would explain a few things). That was also 20 years ago. I'm just crap at tiling but I notice they have got those little plastic spacer thingys now which would make things easier.

Seriously, the lamiHardie stuff is easy if you get some props set up first. I used extending Aluminium tent poles. The cost would be similar by comparison for all DIY wether it was tiles or panels. I just prefer the seamless look and not having any grout. It goes up so quick you score major brownies:D . Its good for the DIY Soul.

Cheers

Cheaper than lamipanel is Ceramalite. Looks good too. :D

Better still for cutting holes for taps etc, is a diamond holesaw. Much neater than a blade.

Dan

can i just clarify folks (and apols for going slightly off topic) this is for a bathroom floor..... is the laminated tile-look product suitable for floors? If so I am a happy boy!

don't much like tiling, which is why my old californian bunglaow has the most stunning ex-roofing slates laid at randowm throughout the place - covered a world of sins


:D

In a word...Nope

There may be another product that is though. Hit up the Hardie and Laminex websites.

Cheers

Gemi,

We managed with no drain in our bathroom floor, with two kids right through from 0 to left home.

If you have the whole floor graded to a drain it may help with gross spills, but you will still need to mop up after. If the floor is basically flat there is not much point in the drain.

I can remember times when I swear there was more water on the floor than in the bath, but the joyful noises were worth the mess.

Have a crack at tiling. It really is not that difficult.
Having read heaps of your other posts I reckon you have enough practical knowhow and common sense to breeze through it.

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...8&q=DIY+tiling

have a look


be careful watching tellie in the bathroom gemi - Beko's dont like water

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

hahahahhaha @ seriph http://www.parbury.com.au/ceramilite/ceramilite.asp is the board squizz is talking about... it seems like the go for me with the tiling for the walls.

I am planning the bathroom and will attempt it when the weather heats up.
Drying times for adhesive etc would be quicker on hotter days right?
And if we are not allowed to walk on the floor... Luckily I have a new neighbour, she is very nice, so will be able to borrow her loo and shower :P

Does anyone here recommend a good adhesive for wooden houses? One that allows movement?
Does anyone know of products to stay away from in the tiling industry?
If I am going to do this on my own, I want to have all the right stuff the first time around.

I wont bother with the drainage hole as we are doing ok without it. Towels and mops work fine :))

I spoke to te fencing guy the other day, who put my 10ft gate in... I was speaking about the hire of the nail gun that this tiler had quoted me for bla bla bla.... He says.....Oh you gotta put those things in the cost of the job, for replacement value... See that drill.....guess how much it cost me.... $540 :eek:yeah. A panasonic drill..... ???

Thanks all for the support to do it myself... I am going to :)

Use Resaflex (sp) I am told that it is great stuff.

Dan

Gemi, here's the panel Bunnies can supply;

http://www.homeideas.com.au/showprod...&state=1&cat=5

or here; http://www.jameshardie.com.au/buildi...?cid=36&did=23

or the LamiPanel here:

http://www.laminex.com.au/pdf/lam_pr..._panelling.pdf

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gemi_babe

I have a 4yr old and bathtimes can get a little messy Sturdee, I need a spillage drain (they are called something else)

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Hi gemi,
I have just started my first ext/reno and the tech talk learning curve is huge!
Well for me any way, not to smart, but can lift heavy stuff.

The drain is called a FLOOR WASTE, and to my thinking if you have any carpet any where near a bathroom, its a must, kids....http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...cons/icon8.gifhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...cons/icon8.gifhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ons/icon11.gifhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...cons/icon7.gif

Scott.

When if did up the bathroom on my previous place I used Lamipanel and I would not hesitate to recomend it. It can be descibed as laminex on backing board and is very tough. It needs to be cut with a scribe type laminex cutter.

A couple of years back I assisted my father in law in doing one of his bathrooms and though I recomended Lamipanel he bought something cheaper and Ceramlite rings a bell. It is very soft and it very soon started to show dings and cuts right through the surface from too vigouress cleaning and who knows what.

In my opinion, check the durability of the surface, Lamipanel seems fairly tough, at least one of the other products is not tough enough.

Jon

I can vouch for the durability of Lamipanel, I've fitted 100's of square metres of the stuff, mostly in boats and a lot of it in boats bathrooms and galleys. (Not many places more demanding for resistance to moisture, heat and vibration). It's actually a solid sheet of laminate 3.5mm thick, no backing. It's best cut with an aluminium cutting blade in a cicular saw or a laminate cutting blade in a jigsaw. It can be planed with an electric planer with tungsten blades and machines readily with tungsten bits in a router. I've fitted the ceramilite in a few bathrooms (client's choice, not mine) and I don't believe it would be anywhere near as durable. It's basically masonite and any cut edges need to be sealed with enamel paint. If you get any of your joints wrong or you go through the protective top layer moisture would get into the board itself and eventually break it down.

Mick

Lamipanel is now called Wet Area Panelling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Don Nethercott

Lamipanel is now called Wet Area Panelling.

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Oh yeah, I forgot they changed the name a few years ago now. :( Also Lysaght is now called Bluescope and all the colorbond names he=ave changed too. Gotta keep all those marketing type people busy now.

Mick

And Besser Blocks aren't Besser blocks any more, they're some other kind of Block (but they're still Besser blocks even though they've got a different name, according to the literature).

Now there's another one for that thread on generic products taking up a brand name!

Cheers,

P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Also Lysaght is now called Bluescope and all the colorbond names he=ave changed too.
Mick

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Well Midge you left the gate open

Heard about that:eek: , raced outside and checked my colourbond that used to be "Harvest", I think it looks much better now that it is "SandBar":rolleyes:


Cheers