In memory to my beloved husband Niki
My name is Regina Avrahami, wife of Niki.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to all woodworking community and woodworking forum members around the world for support, for sharing with me and my family the sorrow and sadness over the loss of Niki. He was very modest, generous, and kind, and I miss him so much. He was perfectionist in everything he did, always trying to help others. I am in deep sorrow & pain over the loss. He loved his woodworking hobby and was thinking of new jigs & ideas till the end. I will be missing him for ever.
Wife
Regina Avrahami
Niki's continuing inspiration
This weekend I needed to resaw some wide boards on my Triton table saw and, although I have a nice high supplementary fence for the Triton rip fence, in the past I have had difficulty keeping boards being resawn vertical. My Magjig feather board is generally okay for ordinary use(except that it often seems to try to locate the magnets over the mitre slot (which are alloy) rather than somewhere where there is a lot of steel). However, when I used it with the high fence to resaw wide boards, for some reason the boards tended to topple away from the rip fence and over the Magjig feather board. When I say topple, I don't mean they actually fall over, but the cut ceases to be parallel to the face, which means there is quite a lot of planing to do to get a flat board.
I therefore made a new high feather board and took the opportunity to put in action one of the ideas that I learnt from Niki's jigs. Niki often used little castors in his jigs and I managed to pick up a dozen or so from Hafele and put them to use on this. The good news is that the jig worked perfectly! I can highly recommend using little castors and wheels. Since the Triton doesn't have a traditional mitre slot, I used 30 mm Magswitchesto hold it in place - they worked perfectly.
I know there is no anti-kickback feature in them, but in my opinion kickback is best controlled by appropriate setup of the table saw to ensure that would does not get trapped between the fence and the blade, use of an effective splitter (in the case of the Triton, I have added some thin shins to ensure that the splitter is accurately located on the line of the inner side of the blade) and by ensuring that the outside hand does not push the work beyond the arbor of the saw. In other words I prefer to ensure that there is no kickback rather than to try to save the situation when there is a kickback.
One problem with traditional feather boards is that as you increase the lateral pressure, the workpiece becomes harder to push through the saw . Small wheels or castors provide even and firm pressure laterally without making the timber significantly more difficult to push (I know that in theory the increased pressure should result in increased friction against the fence, but this seems much less than the pressure required to push through a traditional feather board).
Thank you once again Niki. Your inspirational jigs and the ideas lying behind them, are a continuing benefit to woodworkers all over the world!
PS photo to follow tomorrow.