Do restorers bother with tinted wax ?

enjoying the ubeaut wax. never really been a wax user till recently.

read that its a good idea to get different tints to match the colours of your timber. Is this mostly just so the clear nuetral wax isn't noticed as much as it builds up in the details ?

or is just to provide tinting options. ie. to change the tone ?

probably both I'm guessing.

kinda suspect restorers don't bother with tints. I don't really know, but it makes more sense that they'd like to bulk buy wax of a nuetral colour and just make sure they keep the details clear of that kind of build up you notice. with a toothbrush or something like . Is that what restorers do ?

ISTR that Neil says somewhere (I suspect in the video of him speaking at the Holmesglen Tritin club) that he only makes tinted wax because people ask for it, but he doesn't use it himself. He may say something similar in the Bible (The Polisher's Handbook)

Most timbers benefit from staining or tinting to some degree to bring the best out in them (prior to polishing).

I only use clear wax for white/blonde timbers and ferrous tools. Wax tinted with warm colours also help to reduce harsh reflections on highly polished furniture allowing the observer to see more deepy into the wood - which is what it's all about really.

Avoid the very stark Victorian red Mahogany reds though, or if you already have some very Victorian red Mahogany wax, it can be improved with the addition of a little black or green colour. Always experiment and take notes of quantities and measures used.

lovely. thankyou kindly.

[QUOTE=Woodwould;1014232]Most timbers benefit from staining or tinting to some degree to bring the best out in them (prior to polishing).


Hi Woodwould, following on from your comment above,,, I am working with kauri, wonder if you've any suggestions re tinting it. I'm looking for some contrast with English oak stained quite darkly.

Thankyou

Paul

Paul, Kauri is basically a pale coloured Pine isn't it? Pines generally don't take stains well - other than Pine coloured stains that is. You could wash on a thin coat of size or shellac as a pre-stain conditioner to try and even out dark stains, but it seldom has pleasing results.

You could of course take to it with a spray gun and synthetic lacquers and a myriad of commensurate colours, but then you basically end up with something that looks and feels like Laminex/Formica.

I would enjoy the Kauri for what it is.

I would enjoy the Kauri for what it is.[/QUOTE]
I surely will, thankyou.

Would you include English oak as one of the timbers to benefit from tinted wax? I am restoring an English oak lounge suite and had planned finish it with 1) sanding sealer (shellac 1:6) 2) three coats of orange shellac and 3) a couple of coats of neutral U Beat wax rubbed in with 0000 steel wool. Would this seem like a good way to go. Should I use tinted wax? If so, would it be used over the shellac? Thank you. Jane

I presume if you are refinishing the Oak, then it already has some age/colour to it and isn't new blonde coloured.

In which case, yes, I would apply a 'Medium Oak' (or some such colour) tinted wax over the shellac. The wax is a sacrificial protectant and will wear off where hands rub it. As you apply subsequent coats (as part of your on-going domestic maintenance program), the colour of the Oak will appear fairly constant where the wax routinely gets rubbed off, but in other areas, the tinted wax will accumulate and progressively darken the appearance of the Oak (due to the concentration of colour). Lo and behold, you have the begining of patination! If you don't like the build up of tinted wax, then you could either rub it all off periodically with a turps dampened rag, or use a 'Light Oak' or clear wax to begin with. Clear wax will not provide any depth to the furniture though.

Thank you for your advice, Woodwould. U Beaut don't make a 'medium oak' wax. What would you suggest from the U Beat range?

I'm not familiar with U-Beaut products and looking at the available wax colours, I don't see any Oak coulours either. Dare I say try another brand? :o

Thanks again, Woodwould. Actually, 'medium oak' doesn't seem to be a colour found in most of the waxes that I have looked at. I'll have to look around again when I get to that stage. Currently I am wearing the tips of my fingers out sanding and look like I'll be doing that for another few weeks. :sweat:

:o Sanding? Sandpaper shouldn't be used in the refinishing process. Are you replacing parts with new wood?

Hi Woodwould. No! I am not finishing. I have stripped off the old varnish and am sanding back to raw wood. The grand plan is to use 180 grit (as I am doing now) for the first sand, 260 grit for the second, 320, the third and finally 400 and then do the finishing. But I am glad you told me no sandpaper for the finishing as I would have sanded between coats when finishing.

I had that awful sinking feeling when I read your reply thinking 'oh no' I'm doing something wrong! It hasn't been quite dispelled. I hope what I am doing is the best way. Thank you for your advice.

I was actually reading on another woodworking site (from the US) that 180 grit or 260-280 is sufficient before beginning the finish so I am a bit confused. The reasoning given was that the finish adheres better than if fine sanded prior to finishing, especially with open grained timbers such as oak.

My intuition is to sand 'til the surface feels beautifully silky and the grain is distinct and then to apply the finish. I am sure this is appropriate for a straight wax finish but shellac???? I hope so.

Forgive me; I'm used to restoring priceless antiques and I've never taken a sheet of sandpaper to any old piece of furniture as the original surface - no matter how damaged - is sacrosanct. If your furniture is of relatively recent manufacture, then I see no harm in using sandpaper in the manner described.

I cringe when I read of people taking electrical sanders to remove old finishes, but you sound like you're adopting a gentler approach.<o></o>

Jane123, I found some Medium Oak and Medium Mahogany wax here. Liberon make exceeding good products (their 0000 steel wool is the best available in Australia).

Thank you Woodwould, I'll look them up.

Always found, natural/neutral wax for light/smooth timbers. Anything with open grain, you need something with a bit of color to stop the wax showing up whitish in the grain, or scratches if its a cover up job.

Thanks for that, Spectre. That makes a lot of sense.