Help on fixing old sunbeam mixmaster

Hello,

I've got a problem :D ...with my wifes mixmaster. Those things they use to whip up cakes and the like. The switch on the things busted such that theres no speed control. Won't turn off.

I said,,,,'lets go buy you a new one'....but no, she loves this old thing and wants it fixed. And after opening it up, I gota say, I like it too, the way its made. Everythings screwed in. Thick, strong parts. Not like new stuff, which is full of poorly secured plastic crap. Anyway......

Opened it up, and after much fiddling, worked out the problem. It was one of the capacitors. It needs replacing. Theres 2 of them. A metallic looking one and a green ceramic looking one. (picture 1). Think the metallic looking ones the problem. Because I can alter the speed with just the green one in place. The green one didn't like being on its own, though. Heated up too much.

So, what I need is replacement Capacitors. Especially the metallic one. Like to replace the green one as well, but probably not as important.

But where do I get these parts from ? The machine would have to be at least 30 years old. Anybody know ? Appreciate any help. ideas.

Try these:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/
http://www.radioparts.com.au/Product...ategory=SX0311

http://www.sunbeam.com.au/service/search.cfm?home_id=2

Customer Service Line


Australia
1800 025 059 Toll free
Monday to Friday
9.30am - 5.00pm ES

Sometimes you get lucky and get an old bloke that knows his stuff and can tell you exactly everything you need to know.

Sure the green one is a cap and not a form of suppression, looks like something else.
The other one should be easy to replace as all the info is there.
Make sure you put the electrolytic back in the right way round, they go off with a hell of a bang if you don't.

Thanks ,,,,I'll give those links a go.

Ian, you could be right about that green thing. Both of them sit in parallel to the active and nuetral lines, so I just assumed they were both capacitors. Maybe the green one is a form of suppression . Can't be sure

Thanks for the reminder to put it back the right way too. I've done that before (shhhh...don't tell anyone :D )

Apricotripper,

Can you post a pic of an end on view of the silver cap or is it definately a metal can type. Will have a look through my gear tomorrow, I would probably have the cap. Can you give me the measurements IE: dia & length. Does the green gizmo have any markings on it? I note it is cracked.

Regards Mike.

Thanks for this MickyG.

The cracked green one has no markings. Could make it hard identifying it. Both ends look the same,,,,so I guess I can put it in any way.....

The Metal can has a black like membrane sort of material in its ends.

Both of them sit in parallel to one another off bars that have equal distance from one another.....I mean to say -> The parts have the same lengths...which turns out to be about 40mm.

The diameter of the green one => 11mm
The diameter of the metalic one => 15mm

Thanks again.

Jake

Hi Aprictripper

The one marked .05mfd is a mains capacitor, it must be replaced by one with the same 250VAC rating, they are often yellow plastic monolithic caps now
see jaycar 250V ac mains Metalised Polypropalene I think 470Nf is the one you want part no RG5240

need more info on the green part to help

doug

The green thingy is a resistor but I can't remember it's value.
Check out garage sales for a dead mixer for the spares.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by apricotripper

Hello,

I've got a problem :D ...with my wifes mixmaster. Won't turn off.

---

Keel-haul the scurvy infested lubber!

P
;)

What doug1 said

The job of the capicitor is to stop the govenor switch from arcing. When it fails, by short circuiting internally, then the govenor, which is the off switch, is bypassed and the whole schebang runs flat out. Can be interesting if you have your paws near it .. :eek: but I digress

Mounting the new capacity is the next challenge. The official bit solves that, however there are other ways ... I'll go looking for our old machine and see if I can provide the details of what I did. I recall maing a small circuit board that was held by the clips that used to hold the original capacitor. The new capacitor was soldered onto the board.

Never had trouble with the green bit .. will try to find some info from the old machine.

Back in Feb I got some Sunbeam parts (Feet for elec frypan) from

Sunbeam Customer Service Centre
Shop 2 163 Pacific Hwy Charlestown NSW 2290
ph: (02) 4943 7511 Electrical Appliances--Service & Parts

They are Charlestown TV/Video repairs. Were helpful then and set up for posting out bits.

Jake,

I have had a rummage through the extensive collection I have and cannot find a suitable capacitor for your Sunbeam Mixmaster, sorry for the delay. You would get a cap at Jaycar or Farnell that will do the job. I noticed quite a few old sunbeam mixers on ebay if all else fails. The few I have will not go close to fitting into the cavity because they are high voltage, this makes them far to large for that job.

Regards Mike

Jake

Try

Lismore Appliance Repairs 6621-8432 they are a Sunbeam Service Centre.

Robert34

Thanks Robert, Micky, Havinago, Twodogs, Doug, Ian and . :)

Incredibly helpful. Bound to find what I need amongst that.

Might give Roberts idea a shot first, next time in Lismore. They might be nice enough to give the parts over the counter.

....

BitingMidge !!!! .....whats with all this pirates stuff ? .... Been watching more than just Peter Pan I reakon? ....I've got no chance keep up with all this clever pirate jargon. '

'lubber' ???......bloody hell..... :D

Apricotripper,

Here are some pictures and diagram of what I did:

The capacitor and circuit board are wrapped in 2 layers of heat shrink to minimise the exposed bits (given this is at 240V) Choose the capacitor based on earlier advice by others ... Metalised Polypropylene but 47nF should do ie Jaycar RG5234 ... 240V rating and type are VIP, capacitance .. somewhere nearby is OK.

Thinking out loud:
0.050 micro Farad (0.05 x 10-6) is the same as (50 x 10-9) which is 50 nano Farad .. I hope :)

I did not say it in the diagram, but solder the legs/wires of the capacitor to the metal legs. ie poke the wire though a hole in the board and the metal leg, then solder.

This one has been in operation for at least 8 years.