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Hi Guys, I've just finished laminating up a rather long kitchen bench top. Material is local eucalypt. Just wondering about the pros and cons of making up a mixture of beeswax and raw linseed oil. Is this a common mix? I've just applied a coat of straight linseed oil which has brought it up quite nicely. Tried buying a copy of Neil's book on finishing, but still not available.
Linseed oil and beeswax is a well known combo but a much more common method is to use linseed and then apply a beeswax over the top.
Also common is linseed oil/beeswax/turps. This is what I did our bedhead in.
Look on the web and you will lots of recipes with proportions.
Below is a beeswax recipe from a firm that sold eucalypt furniture and burl bowls at the famous Eumundi Markets on the Sunshine Coast:
1/2 kg beeswax (melted)
3 litres of gum turpentine
12 tablespoons of pale boiled linseed oil.
The gum turpentine makes the mixture smell wonderful and it appeals to the senses.
not wishing to discourage you ...
From the MSDS GUM TURPENTINE http://msds.orica.com/pdf/shess-en-c...0000032832.pdf
Safety Phrases: Do not breathe vapour. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. In case of contact with eyes,rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice. Wear suitableprotective clothing, gloves and eye/face protection. Use only in well ventilated areas.Avoid release to the environment. Refer to special instructions safety data sheets. Ifswallowed, do not induce vomiting; seek medical advice immediately and show thiscontainer or label.
Skin Contact:If skin or hair contact occurs, immediately remove any contaminated clothing and wash skin and hair thoroughly with runningwater and soap. If swelling, redness, blistering or irritation occurs seek medical assistance. This material can be absorbedthrough the skin with resultant toxic effects. Seek immediate medical assistance.
so in addition to the right PPE I'd recommend an on-site emergency back-up person, who can drag you out of harms way and dial 000 should you have a problem
Raw linseed oil or boiled linseed oil?
.....and this is what the MSDS says about Methylated Spirits:Quote:
Originally Posted by ian
Section 2: HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION
Classified as hazardous by the criteria of Safe Work Australia. Irritant.
R11: R66: R20/22: R36/38: S7/9: S16: S23: S29: S33: S45:
S24/25: S36/37/39:
Highly flammable.
Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness and cracking. Harmful by inhalation and if swallowed.
Irritating to eyes and skin.
Keep container tightly closed and in a well ventilated place. Keep away from sources of ignition.
Do not breathe vapours or mist.
Do not empty into drains
Take precautionary measures against static discharges.
In case of accident or if you feel unwell, seek medical advice immediately (show the label whenever possible.)
Avoid contact with skin and eyes.
Wear suitable protective clothing, gloves and eye/face protection.
....... MSDS for Mineral Turpentine:
If this product comes in contact with the eyes:
Wash out immediately with fresh running water.
Ensure complete irrigation of the eye by keeping eyelids apart and away from eye and moving the eyelids by occasionally lifting the upper and lower lids.
Seek medical attention without delay; if pain persists or recurs seek medical attention.
Removal of contact lenses after an eye injury should only be undertaken by skilled personnel.
If skin contact occurs:
Immediately remove all contaminated clothing, including footwear. Flush skin and hair with running water (and soap if available). Seek medical attention in event of irritation.
If fumes or combustion products are inhaled remove from contaminated area.
Lay patient down. Keep warm and rested.
Prostheses such as false teeth, which may block airway, should be removed, where possible, prior to initiating first aid procedures. Apply artificial respiration if not breathing, preferably with a demand valve resuscitator, bag-valve mask device, or pocket mask as trained. Perform CPR if necessary.
Transport to hospital, or doctor.
For advice, contact a Poisons Information Centre or a doctor at once.
Urgent hospital treatment is likely to be needed.
If swallowed do NOT induce vomiting.
If vomiting occurs, lean patient forward or place on left side (head-down position, if possible) to maintain open airway and prevent aspiration.
Observe the patient carefully.
Never give liquid to a person showing signs of being sleepy or with reduced awareness; i.e. becoming unconscious. Give water to rinse out mouth, then provide liquid slowly and as much as casualty can comfortably drink.
Transport to hospital or doctor without delay.
So you see Ian, Gum Turpentine is not much different to other products we use regularly.
Boiled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob38S
Which eucalypt did you use? What kind of lamination are you talking about? Side by side or vertically? Any pics?
Thanks for that as it was my understanding also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidbee
The OP was talking of raw which I understand has issues with regards drying and transference if used as a furniture finish.
Thanks BobL. As mentioned, I've done one coat of raw linseed oil, so I'll take your advice and apply beeswax on top. Is there a technique to doing this, or is it just plain old elbow grease??Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL
Thanks Kidbee, I must admit that I'd never heard of gum turpentine, so I did a quick google and found that Bunnings stock it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidbee
Actually what I used was F17 KDHW 190 by 45 by 4.2 long. Six lengths in total. I ripped these in half to give me 12 lengths of 93 by 45. I laminated all these using M16 all thread at 200 centres and titebond adhesive. On the front I counter bored the nuts in and made a larger stepped counter bore 65 in diameter and 10 deep. i then made up 20 jarrah plugs 65 diameter and 10 thick and glued these in.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAnt
So the finished bench top is 89 thick, 535 wide and 4030 long. The worst part of this job was getting it through the thicknesser. I ended up making a dedicated out feed table due to the weight. It's an effort to lift one end on my own. it's finished now except for trimming the ends once I have it on the bench. It's outside at the moment under 4 layers of tarps and it's pouring rain here, so I have no pictures. The next thing is to figure a way to get it inside into the kitchen!!
Wow that's a chunky bench! Well, getting it in the the kitchen will be easy - you'll just need 10 blokes and a run up, no wall could possibly withstand you! :-)
KidbeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Kidbee
I think you missed my point
Metho and Mineral Turps can be a skin irritant -- think dermatitis -- and are not particularly pleasant if splashed into your eyes or swallowed but compared to Gum Turpentine they are relatively benign
The main risk with Gum Turpentine, as mentioned in the MSDS, is that it can ABSORBED into the blood stream through the skin.
Few if any of the products that we handle on a daily basis have that ability.
The amount you would use to clean an artist's brush is not much, but 3 litres and 1/2 kg of hot bee's wax -- as suggested in the finishing recipe -- should be cause to think about the appropriate PPE
Gum turps (pure turps) can cause kidney failure and worse if absorbed through the pores of the skin and prolonged use can send you batty. You might get the urge to lop off an ear like a well known artist who used lots of the stuff in his art work.
Mineral turpentine is much safer to use for making polishes, waxes etc.
Sorry about the book supposed to be ready for late May but June or even July is looking more likely now. Just not getting the time to work on it at the moment.
Cheers - Neil :U