adhesive for timber flooring on yellowtongue

Hi all,

I have 18mm H/W flooring (80mm wide) which I am laying on yellowtongue. I am planning on glueing and secret nailing through to the joists below.

Many places (including this forum) recommend Bastik Ultrastick, where as others just say to use a liquid nails or other construction adhesive.

Is there a big difference? (If so what?)

If I use the Bostik Ultrastick, how do I apply it? I'd like to put a "wiggle" down each board, but someone was saying I have to trowel it onto the yellowtongue which I'd prefer not to have to do.

Thanks for your advice,

Regards,
Jeremy.

G'day Jeremy.

Do you want a good job?...
If so, Use Bostik Ultraset. Full stop!!!!
Do not even consider so called"Construction Adhesives"
Ultraset is designed for glueing timber floors. The others are general purpose adhesives.

Or you can use Sikaflex T55 (I think) flooring adhesive.

Forget Selley's Liquid nails for flooring. It is nowhere near as good as the other 2.

You can trowel or wiggle. Please yourself which.

Talk to a pro floor layer.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

If not troweling, is there a special gun for application?

If troweling, how much/thick to use?

cheers,
Jeremy.

For wiggle...buy the ultraset in a sausage and wiggle about 4" waves.

For trowel...buy the ultraset in a drum and 3mm notched trowel

Jeremy,
There is a special gun to use with the sausages, about $50 for a cheapie, $150 for a good'un. I've got a good one but don't use it for flooring as it's easier and less messy (cause the Ultraset is very runny) to just poke a hole in the end of the sausage and squirt it out.
For trowelling use a notched trowel (this will automatically give you the correct coverage), from memory you need a 3mm notched trowel.

Mick

Oops, looks like Trevor beat me to it. :rolleyes:

Exactly what the others said, don't even consider liquid nails or other equivalents. The timber moves with the weather and the glue needs to as well. Buy the gun for the bostik sausage and nothings easier. Laying the floors is the easy part, apart from a sore back from bending over using the secret nail gun. Get a professional to sand and finish your floors. I built my house last year and layed 100m2 of karri natural grade. It came up really well.

buy the gun. it saves u chucking the stuff every where and its messy. Try a good hardware or also plasterboard supplies for the gun.

Trowel is used for glue fix where no nails are used or for very very heavy traffic areas. allow about one sagauge for every 7m2

One thing that hasn't been addressed is how well the yellowtongue has been fixed and finished. On the houses that I have built, whether for flooring or not, we have sanded the joints flat on the particle board, especially where they have been exposed to the weather.

Walk aroung and check for squeaks, use plenty of screws and make sure that the yellow tongue is spot on before you lay the flooring. If you can get underneath the floor you will notice spots where the glue is missing from between the yellowtongue and joists. Stick your caulking gun in there and fill it with liquid nails or the equivalent.

Also dont forget to get the longest staples you can for the secret nailer.

Just thought I'd reopen this thread...

After all the dramas with my sub-floor (see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=22087) I am about to lay the Yellowtongue myself, with the help of a mate. Anyone have any hints or tips for laying this stuff? It seems easy enough, but I'm sure there are going to be some tricky parts.

Some tips I have received.

1. Lay it in a brick pattern
2. Glue it to the joists with liquid nails then nail it
3. Jam the tongue into the groove as hard as you can - use an offcut to hammer the two pieces together

A couple of questions:

1. Should the Yellowtongue touch the walls or should there be a small gap so the wood never touches the wall?
2. There is the occassional joist that isn't completely flush with the joists on either side. Is this going to cause dramas with squaking etc once the 19mm timber has been laid on top?
3. I'll put a nail in on each side of the sheet where it sits on a joist - do I also need to nail it in the middle of the sheet as well?

Oh and for those that are wondering why we are laying 19mm solid timber flooring to Yellowtongue...we were told that by a number of installers that is the best way to help with noise and is less bouncy.

Thanks...

Vgolfer

Lay it in a brick pattern - definitely
Glue it to the joists & then nail it - definitely
Jamb the tongue . . . . - 'nip' the sheets together using a length of timber as long as (or longer than) the sheets (3.6) & a sledge hammer to gently tap the sheets together.
Should the Yellowtongue touch the walls . . .- either. I'd go against, purely as a preference.
There is the occassional joist that isn't completely flush - Probably the most crucial. Spend the time getting them level. The adhesive will take up some differences but you won't get a second chance to fix a squeaking floor.
I'll put a nail in on each side of the sheet where it sits on a joist . . . - a min. of 5 nails per sheet along the joist preferably 't' heads or in your situation even flat heads.

When you place the sheet onto the joist dont move it too much to disturb the adhesive - especially sideways.
We usually stand the sheet vertically in place against the laid sheet and gently lower it onto the joist, tap it into place & then nail it. Minimum glue disturbance, a straight line to the top of the joists & adequate nailing is the key.

Can I ask why so many people lay flooring under flooring? Did your supplier say it was better or something?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Auspiciousdna

Can I ask why so many people lay flooring under flooring? Did your supplier say it was better or something?

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I can't work that out either . I just laid mine straight onto the floor joists . Also I found it best to pre-drill the holes before secret nailing them as it caused a lot less problems with splitting and therefore getting the tounge into the groove ( which is something I wont be doing for the next six weeks :( , thanks charles )

Over the last 40 odd years or so joists (and bearers) have been getting further and further apart, 'til now the normal spacing seems to be right on the legal limit. No wonder floors are becoming bouncier...

But instead of fixing the problem at the source and respacing the joists, modern trends seem to be to kluge it by laying a sub-floor first.

Go figure!

I've never seen any sub-floor framimg that was that far out it needed another floor lay under the purposed floor level, all I know it's like a scam to get people to buy more flooring than you need! And why glue it to boot? heaven knows if you need to take some up!

We laid 13mm hardwood overlay flooring over yellow tongue (with trowel applied Bostik Ultraset), all over a new hardwood subfloor. One advantage is that it is much easier to work on a building with a floor, and the finished surface can be finished when other trades are done. Also the floor feels very solid (but has that nice SMALL flex that you get with a timber subfloor). Acoustically it is wonderful, no squeaks, sounds very solid. Very happy with the choice.