Shed Lighting

I've recently finished buidling my new (6m x 6m) shed and am now considering how to best set up the lighting.

For general lighting, I will be using several fluros with the whiter/brighter triphosphorous tubes. However, I am aware that fluros strobe (perhaps at 50 cycles?) and hence can cause spinning machinary parts to appear stationary. Hence the usual solution is to use an incandescent light (bulb) shining on the job as well. Is this really necessary / Is it a real problem?

I was considering using low-voltage halogen lights (like those that seem to be the trend to use in kitchens and the like) for this purpose. Does anyone have a view on how useful they would be? The advantages to me appear that as they a low voltage (12V) and quite small, I could easily mount one on the end of a flexible arm that could easily be positioned in an appropraite place for the job at hand. The low voltage is attractive for safety reasons (if a bulb is broken etc). I do have a residual current detector (earth leakage) in place, but it can't hurt to play it safe...

Any experiences, comments or thoughts shared are welcome

In the dream shed (patch of sand up the back) I have a timber frame suspended over the workbench(es). The frame is faced with Hardie board for 2 x Halogens over the bench and has two power points and a air connection. Somewhere hereabouts is a thread on halogens globe replacement with new LED's.

Just be aware the halogens are a very good light to work directly under but they are that (directional). Some flouros overhead will provide good ambient light.
Also, work too close to a Halogen and you will get burnt if your a bit thin on the topside:D .

There has been lots of discussion on this topic so do a search.

Cheers

I have a 6x5m shed and have 3 banks of double fluros - the normal ones - and found that they weren't bright enough. I agree with VSQuizz - there has been a lot of discussion just recently and this caused me to change to triphosphorous tubes which are fine. I don't have trouble with fluro strobe but this might be that I try and do most of my machinery work early in the evening as a consideration for the neighbours with noise - and I don't like working with machinery when I am tired. But that is me and this suits my work patterns. If you are concerned then try incandescent light. Low voltage I know little about.
I did originally have plans to work at night as you do but I am glad I didn't spend the extra money on special lights. Check recent discussion over the last 2 weeks - you will see some comment there.

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Originally Posted by Simmering

However, I am aware that fluros strobe (perhaps at 50 cycles?) and hence can cause spinning machinary parts to appear stationary. Hence the usual solution is to use an incandescent light (bulb) shining on the job as well. Is this really necessary / Is it a real problem?

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That is interesting about flouros strobing. When I was in the army with the Royal Australian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers attached to a Light Aid Detachment we had a technical bulletin came out about Strobing with flouros and if I remember rightly it referred to single flouros but not double flouros.

I have flouros in my shed both single and double and have never had any problem with strobing with lathes, bandsaws, circular saws, drill presses or any hand power tools.

Just my 2c worth.

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Originally Posted by Barry_White

That is interesting about flouros strobing. When I was in the army with the Royal Australian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers attached to a Light Aid Detachment we had a technical bulletin came out about Strobing with flouros and if I remember rightly it referred to single flouros but not double flouros.

I have flouros in my shed both single and double and have never had any problem with strobing with lathes, bandsaws, circular saws, drill presses or any hand power tools.

Just my 2c worth.

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Double fluoros are generally co phased to eliminate strobing. Right on Barry.

Barry,
I think the only time you'll notice the strobe effect of a fluoro is when they are the only light source (ie you've got a room that's got no daylight entering it and no incandescent lights) which is when it will make moving parts appear stationary. I guess it would only happen in the right conditions with the blade or bit running at a certain speed. Under these conditions the blade might appear to be hardly moving or perhaps running slowly backwards - like a wagon wheel in the old cowboy movies. I think most people hear "strobe effect" and think it'll look like a strobe light in a night club.

Mick

Thanks guys. I was aware that only a part moving at the exact same speed as the flicker of thelight would casue it to appear stationary. The fact about double fluros not flickering in sync is interesting. Sounds like I can get by with a mixture of good fluro (doubles included) lighting as well as perhaps a couple of other light sources for good measure.

I will search for some previous threads as suggested.

I always Know when my machines are switched on....... the make a noise.

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Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Barry,
I think the only time you'll notice the strobe effect of a fluoro is when they are the only light source (ie you've got a room that's got no daylight entering it and no incandescent lights) which is when it will make moving parts appear stationary.

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Mick, you're describing my workshop, under the house, no windows, door usually closed and only fluoros and no incandescant lights. There are doubles and singles and I have never seen the strobe effects.


Peter.

The strobe effect is also relative to the speed of the machine operating so it will not effect all machinery, and like stated earlier, if it's on it makes a noise.

I thought that the strobing only happened with a single fluro
i have always ran double fluros and never had any problem

Not sure what co-phasing means but a double is just two singles in the same housing (2xballast, 2xstarter). :confused:

But wired opposite to each other to eliminate the strobing effect, one on, one off.

If you have single phase AC power and two fluorescent tubes connected I see no possible way to connect them in any form of anti-phase! The tube conducts in both directions once the lamp is running just as soon as the voltage aplied exceeds the strike voltage. If anyone can give me a good explanation to the contrary I will be pleased to read it.
Another point is that the degree of modulation of the light output is only about 10-15% from memory. Real "strobes" achieve about 50%, so the effect is not so great anyway. Even incandescent lamps have a small degree of light modulation, but much reduced due to the thermal inertia of the filament compared to the gas discharge of the TL.

Speaking of fluro's anyone in Adelaide get down to Paramont Browns and grab some, $154 box of 8x4' singles with triphospho's! $258 for box of 8 double's. They have vented diffusers for them there as well, purchased separately(add $8 per fitting).
They even got 10/15amp power points(HPM)at near half the trade price($10).