Tung Oil or........????

I was reading an article on wipe-on-finishes in the Australian Woodsmith the other night. Seems the author doesn't have a very high opinion of one of my favoured finishes being tung oil. His/her description of Tung Oil characteristics does not match my own experiences leading me to several possible conclusions:

1.) I am an Idiot
2.) The author is an Idiot
3.) Our opinions vary because of the products on the market.

My thinking is that 1.) & 3.) are considerably more likely than 2.) {and less likely to result in a law suit}:) . So I'd like to discard 1.) as this theory has been well tested and proven on a regular basis.

Coincidentally a BB member told me a lot of what is sold as "Tung Oil" contains polyurethane. Unfortunatley I don't have a can on hand and when I buy Tung Oil I just tend to grab a can off the shelf from any manufacturer I recognise and the price is decent. I have also never really read the can in detail other than the thinning/clean-up/safety etc stuff.

So am I being lead up the proverbial, wool pulled over eyes, and what is getting around as "Tung Oil" is actually a mix:( .

I noticed the author stated Pure Tung Oil several times. I thought Tung Oil was...well..Tung Oil, or is it a case of what Sol says?. Does anybody have a can with some fine print that states what is actually in it?.

Should I be looking for pure tung oil?... Has anybody seen Elvis latley? ;)

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I have also never really read the can in detail other than the thinning/clean-up/safety etc stuff.

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I think you will find that PURE Tung Oil has none of the above. It's a natural product and can be applied with your hands if your inclined. It's consistancy is like warmed honey. In fact I thin it with turps for first few coats.

What didn't the article like about it?

Gordon, Said it was only a small step up from linseed (which in my exp is crap) "Many coats, thin build, slight sheen". which is not my experience either. I thin a bit and use 3 to 4 coats, comes up beautiful. I must admit that any oil finish needs some maintenance.

The article just got me to thinking that what I had been using was not actually Pure tung oil.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by vsquizz

Gordon, Said it was only a small step up from linseed (which in my exp is crap) "Many coats, thin build, slight sheen". which is not my experience either. I thin a bit and use 3 to 4 coats, comes up beautiful. I must admit that any oil finish needs some maintenance.

The article just got me to thinking that what I had been using was not actually Pure tung oil.

Cheers

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The stuff I buy most definitely says pure tung oil on it - and I would say your experiences pretty much match mine. I thin 50% with white spirit for the first coat; around 20% for the second, then unthinned for 2 (sometimes 3) more coats. 24 hours between coats. And yes, it "comes up beautiful"!
;)

Maybe the guy who wrote the article was using some kind of cheap inferior mixed product - or maybe he has not used it at all and is relying on a 'friend of a friend'?

Pure tung oil is more expensive (in UK anyway) than the mixed varieties. I have not tried a mix yet - I like the finish that I'm getting.

Visquizz,

Best way to check it out is to read the label or find a copy of MSDS and check the contents. Most of the commercial “tung oils” have poly or alkyd resigns (up to 30% rest solvents) and no tung oil :eek: . They are the culprits.

Regards,

Theva

Thanks guys. I guess I better do some research before I buy some more.

I know I used Watyl awhile back. And I thought it was the beautiful soft brush I used and the magnificent brush off technique I developed:eek: . Its more likely the stuff was full of varnish it seems:confused: . Or maybe it wasn't and I end up back at 2.) and a lawsuit......Bugger .

So what brands are being used which appear to be Pure?.


Cheers

I purchased a 5L container of Sceneys Pure Tung oil for $53.00 about three weeks ago from PaintMobile here in Victoria. Give Sceney Chemicals a ring 0393117477 and see if they have a WA distributor. They put me onto Paintmobile.

Hex, Is there any particular reason you use white spirit?. I have been using turps, seems OK.

BTW - so nobody has seen Elvis??
Cheers

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Originally Posted by vsquizz

Hex, Is there any particular reason you use white spirit?. I have been using turps, seems OK.

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I doubt whether the thinning agent makes any difference. The thinner will evaporate anyway, and its main purpose is to get the first couple of coats to soak into the wood. I use white spirit because that's what I have in the shed!

I've got VB in my shed. Will that do?

If you use metho instead of the VB you will probably get to see Elvis:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by vsquizz

Gordon, Said it was only a small step up from linseed (which in my exp is crap) "Many coats, thin build, slight sheen". which is not my experience either.

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I'm about to use Boiled Linseed Oil on a Post Box, obviously external, would I be better off using Tung Oil or is that strictly interior OR should I be using something different?:confused:

The post box is clad in blue gum and I'm keen to make it look its best.

HH.

HH, I have not used Real Oil finishes exterior but I'd be a bit inclined to use one of the decking oils which are exterior rated for a longer lasting finish. You will have to re-coat at least 12 monthly anyway. Do a search for decking oils as there is a thread I was reading earlier today. I actually found it by Googling for Sceneys

BTW I am planning on doing the same with my LB. How bout a piccy. I was going to use marine ply and jarrah and finish with a marine varnish but I reckon an oil finish would look better.

Cheers

1) I have never used tung oil

2) I use a variant of VB regularly

3) I sometimes use metho

4) Interchanging point 3 and point 4 above results in not only seeing Elvis but having a full on jam session.



Hope this most serious contribution helps :D

Hi VSQUIZZ,
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http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html