Lights for the workbench

I have fluorescent lighting throughout the shop, in addition to natural light through a window. Unfortunately my bench is not close to the window, and it is not practical to have it in that position (I do, however, have my sharpening centre by the window).

I have always needed more light over the bench, especially as my eyes age (I need reading glasses to make out the markings on everything).

A couple of days ago a light bulb went on over my head (pun intended). I have a wall of cabinets above the bench (unfinished - still needing doors). I had been trying to find a way of hooking up a spotlight on a bracket. A recent thread suggested planting the base in a dog hole. The problemwith that is it takes up valuable bench space (my bench is small enough). I do have a magnifier and light on a movable stand that I pull over when cutting dovetails, but again this is not ideal since it is always in the way.

So this idea came to me. Why not think of the woodshop bench and overhead cabinets as if it were a kitchen. Why not install under-cabinet lighting?!

Today I fitted 2 fluoro strips, each 20 watts. These are slim line and take up very little space. They connect in line and require only one power cord. Each has an on-off switch. I also needed to add a shield under the cabinets. Standing up the light cannot be seen. Bending down the light was in my eyes. The shield blocked this off, but not the light on the bench.

Below is a picture of the lights taken at an angle that enables them to be seen. In practice, they are hidden.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...hop/Light1.jpg

Here is what they look like under working conditions ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...hop/Light2.jpg

And a picture of a rule. The lights-on conditionis the picture on the left. On the right is taken with the light off.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...hop/Light3.jpg

Hope this helps someone else do the same.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That has worked extremely well Derek. good for you.:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

You don't have any problems with the strobing effect that can come from fluros do you?

Nice easy choice of light fixture Derek, I have used them on a bookshelf job I did but hadn't thought to use them in the workshop. I'm sure many of us struggle with the lighting as we clock up a few years. I have a good aray of lights but I need to put a little sky light in for a touch more natural light. Down side is I will pick up more heat, never mind can't have everything.

Great idea, Derek. I put a fluoro over my bench as well.

Just have to be careful when flipping boards.

Tex

Ditto.

Light is so important as we get older. I use a fluoro over the workbench at the moment but am moving the entire bench so I can drag the lathe over to the window. Then I'll replace the fluoro with incandescents as I am finding I prefer the warmer light when turning, marking and measuring.

I'm happy with either and wouldn't change it unless I was moving the bench. Good to read you are covering it as there is a risk with fluoros getting knocked. I've seen one fall in a footy change room where we were mucking around. It bounced end for end until it lay flat, then it exploded. Nearly the entire team was in bare feet and had to stand still until a broom could be found, glass went everywhere.

Hi Derek,

A great improvement to visibility over your bench. Looks great now with the fluoros. Well done. Makes the tools on the back wall much more visible too.

I did notice that the bench area got quite dark particularly if a few mates were standing to the left in front of the window, it made a big difference. Having a (dark) Jarrah bench is much less of a vivibility concern now by the look of the photos.

Painting the underside of the cabinets white would also add extra reflected light if needed.

A narrow strip of perspex could add double protection, if that proves to be a concern.

This job has been on my 'to do' list for, well years. My short term 'lazy' answer was to drag the bench a bit closer to the window. :)

Cheers
Pops

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Groggy

Light is so important as we get older. I use a fluoro over the workbench at the moment but am moving the entire bench so I can drag the lathe over to the window. Then I'll replace the fluoro with incandescents as I am finding I prefer the warmer light when turning, marking and measuring.

.

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Hi Groggy

before you change your fluoros to incandescents, consider a trial using the different "colour" tubes made by most tube manufacturers, and available from bunnies.
Not much beats the amount and distribution of light from a single or dual 40 watt size tubular fluoro over a lathe or similar. There is Cool Daylight (some think it is harsh, but I like it best), Warm White (try this one), and Natural. Some manufacturers may call them different names.
Bunnies normally have a range of CFLs switched on to give customers an idea.
You can extrapolate the colours to tubes for a rough guide.
There are also "butchers" and "greengrocers" tubes made if you are kinky, but not available from bunnies.
Have a "butchers" at manufacturers websites for info.
:U

cheerio, mike

Thanks Mike, I have had a look at a few tubes but they don't seem to be quite the same to me. I have another place to use them so they won't be wasted.

I like the perspects idea to protect the fluros as mine dont have any protection. but i cant figure out how to bent the perspect to a 90 degree angle.
Harrison.:2tsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Groggy

Light is so important as we get older. I use a fluoro over the workbench at the moment but am moving the entire bench so I can drag the lathe over to the window. Then I'll replace the fluoro with incandescents as I am finding I prefer the warmer light when turning, marking and measuring.

I'm happy with either and wouldn't change it unless I was moving the bench. Good to read you are covering it as there is a risk with fluoros getting knocked. I've seen one fall in a footy change room where we were mucking around. It bounced end for end until it lay flat, then it exploded. Nearly the entire team was in bare feet and had to stand still until a broom could be found, glass went everywhere.

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As Mike pointed out colour of the light is important particular as the cataracts start setting in, but the nature of the light is just as important. Daylight is coherent and highlights imperfections and textural variations much better than fluoro lights, incandescents are somewhere in between.

In Dereks situation the fluoru's provide diffuse light with minimal shadowing which is great for reading, however, for some woodwork, an adjustable 'point source' of light may be better.

Zelk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Harrison

I like the perspects idea to protect the fluros as mine dont have any protection. but i cant figure out how to bent the perspect to a 90 degree angle.
Harrison.:2tsup:

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I'm going to use wire mesh instead of perspex. I know I'll manage to bash a tube with a tool or board one day. Wire mesh looks a bit industrial but its very easy to work with, and you don't loose as much light as you do with perspex.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rhancock

I'm going to use wire mesh instead of perspex. I know I'll manage to bash a tube with a tool or board one day. Wire mesh looks a bit industrial but its very easy to work with, and you don't loose as much light as you do with perspex.

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Yes rhancock it is a good idea but wire mesh is mallable so if you do manage to stike in that direction the mesh will bend ending up hitting the fluro.

the cover are made of plastic any way and are also frosted so i dont see why you would loose any light.

Thats my thoughts anyway

Cheers Harrison:2tsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Harrison

I like the perspects idea to protect the fluros as mine dont have any protection. but i cant figure out how to bent the perspect to a 90 degree angle.
Harrison.:2tsup:

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Perspex is pretty easy to bend - we used to do it quite a bit to make turntable covers, years ago. Clamp the piece you want to bend between two boards (aligned along the bend line) then heat with a paint stripper or powerful hair dryer until it's soft enough to bend. Practice on a scrap piece until you get the hang of it...
Cheers,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Harrison

Yes rhancock it is a good idea but wire mesh is mallable so if you do manage to stike in that direction the mesh will bend ending up hitting the fluro.

the cover are made of plastic any way and are also frosted so i dont see why you would loose any light.

Thats my thoughts anyway

Cheers Harrison:2tsup:

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If the light is inline of sight, it's much easier on the eyes if one uses a plastic cover, as it acts as a diffuser, then put a wire mesh over it.

Zelk