D3....A chip off the old block?
:wink:
Regards
Paul
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D3....A chip off the old block?
:wink:
Regards
Paul
Whilst I do appreciate the comments and advice regarding jigs, and learned more about alternatives along the way, I've stumped for a Leigh D4R pro and a few extras and will post a few comments and pictures once I get some time on it. The versatility and width swayed me, although the cost does mean mince on toast for longer than I would like. I guess time will tell if it was worth it. If anyone has ever seen my comments about various products I've bought over the years, if it's good I'll sing its praises and if it's rubbish, well, I'm not shy about saying so.
For those who attended the gtg, you may remember that the Hegner finger jointer had fried its motor the day before it was due to be demonstrated :doh:and we got it going on the day by swapping one of the Trend trim routers from my Gifkin router table plate into the Hegner. PJP, the new owner of the Hegner, did his online homework which came to a successful conclusion today.
The router mounting for the Hegner requires a 43mm diameter boss at the 'sharp end' of the router and the Trend router has a 42mm boss so it was packed out with plastic tape on the day. An online search showed that the GMC 500w trim router also has a boss at the 'sharp' end and "looked a lot like the Trend router". He then found one on-line FOR $70 and received it yesterday.
A check across all 3 routers, showed that, other than a few cosmetic differences, all 3 were identical except for the unexplained 1 mm difference in boss diameter?
I installed the GMC router into the Hegner jig this morning (PJP had an operation on his hand on Monday :no::no:) and so the Hegner is now back in action AND I've got my Trend router back!
The relevant costs are;
Hegner replacement router $360 plus P+P ex Germany
Trend router via retailer $360
GMC router via online sale, $70
So, if you are looking for a second hand Hegner and find one that has fried its motor, you can get it going for as little as $70 by using a much more available Trend or GMC trim router.
PJP is probably in his workshop right now tearing off his bandages :no:
fletty
Perhaps PJP could supply a link to the GMC for you to post here fletty? Was the GMC new?
I will check but I think it was a private sale via Gumtree, unused with the box still vacuum wrapped (!), ex Newcastle?Quote:
Originally Posted by FenceFurniture
For those who were at the gtg, I have done some more work on the lock mitre joint jig. It got 'too hard' to align the router jig to the mitre slot on the router table so I cut a 'slider' from the same plywood as the jig, mounted a square fence and a toggle clamp....
Attachment 416588
.... so that the workpiece is mounted on the slider and the edge between the slider and jig becomes the datum instead of the fragile machined edge once it is past the cutter. The results so far are encouraging...
Attachment 416589
That looks impressive
DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art
The lock mitre gauge/jig invented by the same bloke who invented the IBox jig. Reputedly works on a very wide range of different bits including shapers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBMWj3-b4P4
Great video Chris,
After seeing the video and Alan's demonstration at the GTG; if I can't find a Hegner Finger Jointer, THIS is a good option, the router bit & that infinity gauge; thank you...
Cheers, Peter
PS - Would one purchase the Infinity Gauge and Router Bit from the Infinity website or in Australia from someone??
Thanks Chris, those Infinity bit alignment jigs were demo'd on the day and they are excellent for the set up but, the main problem with cutting the lock mitre joint is that, after the workpiece has passed the router bit, you are relying on a fragile 45degree knife edge running along the fence to maintain accuracy. This is particularly critical on the vertical cut where the operator has to push down against this knife deg which frequently results in the edge crushing, giving poor alignment and hence a poor joint? I was intrigued to watch the video especially when he said he got a good joint on his first try? I then burst out laughing, which is dangerous given the gastric bug I picked up yesterday :C, to see that the video edited out both the horizontal and vertical cuts as soon as the workpiece had gone past the cutter!
The jig I'm working on above means that the knife edge is not the datum 'surface' and results so far have been very good. HOWEVER, I'm still working on a simple way to do the same thing on the vertical cut.
The lock mitre joint has so many benefits that it is worth putting in a bit of work to also make it simple.
What about one of these Alan??Quote:
Originally Posted by fletty
https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4474
hmmmmm, that is EXACTLY what I was making from $8 worth of plywood yesterday when I was still able to venture more than 10 paces from the bathroom?Quote:
Originally Posted by crowie
Maybe an extra outhouse is required adjacent the shed
Attachment 416636Quote:
Originally Posted by fletty
....and here is my first MDF prototype. The new plywood version has greater lateral adjustment and, to help with clamping the workpiece, the vertical fence of the static part of the jig has to be reduced in height.
One thing however that I will not get with a homemade plywood jig is the weight that die cast or CNC machined phenolic would give and WEIGHT is a great advantage when machining across grain!
Re Crowie's "extra outhouse", it would certainly have been a benefit when I just got out of bed and down to the shed to take this pic :C
Im feeling for you Chris!
Timbecon are offering a deal on lock mitre bits and the infinity gauge. Are they a worthwhile addition to my burgeoning router bit collection?
If you are going to make boxes and timber casework then the lock mitre router bit gives beautifully crisp corners and is much easier to assemble than mitres with keys, splines, biscuits or even dominos. If you are going to use a lock mitre router bit then the Infinity set up gauge is indispensable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lappa
Another big plus is that the lock mitre can make fabulous utility boxes with plywood or even use the edge of GOOD plywood in high end cabinets. I haven't seen the Timbecon deal yet but I did buy my infinity gauges from them.
fletty
Have you a link?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lappa
DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art
I have the Carbitool Mitre lock bit, as shown on page 31 of the enviro catalogue:
CARB-I-TOOL - Router Bit and Accessories Catalogue - NOVEMBER 2015
Will the Infinity jig work with that? I presume that it will......
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTTC
https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...tre-setup-jigs
Thanks Brett. No flies on your back
DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art
I can relate to that, want some drugs?Quote:
Originally Posted by fletty
It works with my CMT router bit so I presume that it is universalQuote:
Originally Posted by FenceFurniture
Nah, but you can see where they've been :roflmao:Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTTC
Ive been sympathising with you all day mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris Parks
It's a July special. Here's the link to the special - router bits and Jig.
https://www.timbecon.com.au/july-sal...ng-router-bits
But look at the pricing on the Infinity website....WOW..
https://www.infinitytools.com/lock-miter-master-jigs
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTTC
Nope, on both counts. It's winter. Wait until November and I'll be able to catch a ride to Camden no wuckas.Quote:
Originally Posted by fletty
However, we do have a decent population of Euro Wasps - frequent enough that I can now tell them by the pitch of their wings, without looking. I've become used to them buzzing around, but when they get too persistent.....pssssht.....and they drop from the sky instantly. What I didn't know until recently is that the smell of chicken on the BBQ brings them out wholesale.
We'll see how I go tomorrow - just bought a new Weber, picked up 40kgs of charcoal from Mt Druitt, 10kgs of chicken from Wollies, ready for a big session (and then freezing).
Damn. I thought I escaped those when I left Tasmania. I vaguely recall a childhood memory of being at the Cateract Gorge in Lonnie and having one end up in my drink can. Luckily I didn't drink from it. Or maybe I'm confusing it with the time when I got in trouble for not eating my school lunch jam sandwich, only for my Mum or me to find one (or was that a bee) in the sandwich.Quote:
Originally Posted by FenceFurniture
Iain
Back from family duties, a weekend away with the whole family, great time!
Returned today to the shed and the lock mitre joint jig. As soon as it got to 'usable' stage rather than 'finished', I cut a prototype joint and got a good joint..... first go!
Attachment 416928 Attachment 416929 Attachment 416930
Looking at the geometry, if it is cut correctly, it should automatically result in a 90 degree joint so, when I glued this one, I left the joint to find its own angle .....
Attachment 416931
.... and was very pleased to see this.
Now that I know the principle works, I'll finish the jig off but I need to include the provision to allow multiple cuts as, on workpieces thicker than about 12 mm, a single cut is removing too much timber for my liking?
fletty
EDIT, many apologies AGAIN, but the pictures have rotated during posting and I just can't stop it from happening. When you click on them, some rotate back, but change format!
Nicely done Alan.... :2tsup:
Looking forward to seeing the finished jig over the prototype..
Cheers, Peter
Good job flettmeister! Looks like a nice clean joint too.
Immmm !!!!
Just following along but a big thanks guys for a prod.
Maybe I should re visit my lock mitre bits.
Assume like many I got frustrated early on
So it become a dust collector bit.
Cheers Matt
Looks like Timbecon will be getting some of my readies:D Probably get Kit #1
The jig is finished, trialled AND IT WORKS!
This is the fixed part of the jig...
Attachment 417089
..... the front edge of this is the datum for all routing and the fence must be parallel to the front edge
The carriage to hold the horizontally machined workpieces.....
Attachment 417090
..... consists of a base that slides along the front edge of the fixed base, a fixed cross bar which is square to the carriage and a toggle clamp to hold the workpiece like this....
Attachment 417091
.... where the end of the workpiece is against the fence.
The carriage to hold the workpieces that are machined vertically...
Attachment 417092
.... consists of a front face which must be square to its base and an adjustable slider.
To to set it up, I use the Infinity lock mitre gauge to adjust the height of the router bit and the location of the fence on the fixed base relative to the router bit. To machine the 'horizontal' workpieces, mount them to the carriage with the end against the fence on the fixed base making sure that the carriage is hard against the datum edge. As the workpiece goes past the cutter, the carriage ensures that the knife edge does not get crushed against the fence. The vertically machined workpiece is clamped onto the front face of the 'vertical' carriage making sure that its end is hard against the base of the fixed base and that it is square. Push the vertical carriage against the fence of the fixed base until the workpiece is hard against the fence and then lock the slider against the front edge (datum) of the fixed base. Once again, as the workpiece has passed the cutter, the carriage stops the knife edge from being crushed. The role of the slider is to allow the vertical carriage to be mounted (say) 6mm away from the fence on the first cut to reduce the amount of timber being removed per cut and to minimise tear out. A similar adjustment can be made on the horizontally cut workpiece by clamping it so that the end is (say) 6mm away from the fence on the first cut.
It is easier to do than my clumsy words above would suggest but the result is a joint like this on the first go....
Attachment 417093
... and the ability to machine the joints on all 4 sides of a box in about 3 minutes!
fletty
Sold to the guy driving home for $2
Looks great
DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art
That's pretty nifty.
As a relative newcomer to these sorts of things, I think the take home message for me is about being creative and realizing that the reference surfaces/datums (data?) don't need to be close to the business end of the board - just as long as they are suitably parallel/square/whatever.
Iain
I was disappointed not to be able to make this gtg but I was overseas at the time.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Excellent write up and description. Was only able to take a quick look at the pics earlier.
You'd think they would suggest a set up along these lines with the bits (bracing myself for a hit over the head with a link where soneone says 'they do')
DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art
Thanks for the write up and photos. SWMBO asked me what I was reading so I showed her. She rolled her eyes and said/asked/declared "another Jig?!"
I found that both the horizontal and vertical jigs were resulting in too much tear out where the router bit left the workpiece and so I decided to find a way to include a sacrificial backing piece to protect the workpiece. Also, being sensitive to the effect of spinning router bits on fingers, I decided to better protect my fingers as well. I've found a temporary fix for the vertical jig but got a bit 'sophisticated' with the horizontal.
This was the starting point...
Attachment 417424
..... and, after an hours fiddling, this is the final result...
Attachment 417425 Attachment 417426
.... with a sacrificial backing piece that can be slid forward and recut for a different setup/thickness and 2 hand grips to keep my fingers away from the cutter.
With both the workpiece and backing board extended to the fence...
Attachment 417427
.... after passing the router bit, the workpiece now has little or no break out and the backing board of course is shaped to support all subsequent pieces...
Attachment 417428
I also now have much better control of the jig via the 2 handles than I did by just grabbing it where I could..... and shutting my eyes!
fletty
It was a luverly rainy day here and that means SHED TIME!
I used the lock mitre jig in anger for the first time and made 2 very basic boxes with lock mitre corners and rebated floating lids and bases.
Attachment 417437 Attachment 417438 Attachment 417439
Basically, even though set up time is greatly reduced, it looks like I can make a single such box in 40 minutes or 25 minutes each in a batch of 4? I know this isn't in the spirit of fine box making and that each box should be a single creative exercise BUT every now and then ...... quantity replaces quality?
EDIT; I really am getting frustrated with my pictures rotating during posting but, as I don't hear of anyone else having the problem at the moment, then I presume it is something that I am doing? I take the pictures on my mobile (no rotation occurs), I email to myself to reduce file size (no rotation), I 'receive' the email on my iPad (no rotation), I compose the post using the picture icon at the top of the draft (no rotation), I post (ROTATION!). I note in the new instructions for posting pics in MARKETPLACE that the MANAGE PICTURES method is recommended and there is a reference to possible issues with mobile devices? Next time one of my shed regulars drop in, could you please show me how YOU do it?
fletty
The picture problem is not just you Alan, it was thought the problem was caused due to posting from an Iphone but don't take my word for that as I have had the same issue posting from a desk top PC.