I mentioned today my Foredom woodcarving set, the one like a Dremel on steroids. Here's a link. They are great
Woodcarving Kits | Foredom Electric Company
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I mentioned today my Foredom woodcarving set, the one like a Dremel on steroids. Here's a link. They are great
Woodcarving Kits | Foredom Electric Company
That was one nice bench Doug... but are you sure about those initials, seems to be some in the dovetail :)
Attachment 480123
Must have been some temporary trick of light and shade, Phil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
I went out and checked but there is no sign of any unauthorized initials now. :rolleyes: :no:
Lance
Just going back a couple of Prattles. This is a link to some chainsaw mill plans:
9 Homemade Chainsaw Mill Plans You can DIY Easily
Regards
Paul
Just what I needed - another bloody project. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
Saved to hard drive, added to the list of projects (currently sitting at number 2,156)
Hi All,
It's been a hectic week for me, and have almost no mental capacity left to think of a topic, so how about this one... "When you are mentally exhausted, with no beans left in the tank, what do you do in the shed to recharge, or do you just sit in a comfy chair resting your eyes?
I look forward to seeing any and all tomorrow
Topic: Friday lunch prattle
Time: Friday 12:00-12:40
Join Zoom Meeting
Launch Meeting - Zoom
Meeting ID: 789 4886 9892
Passcode: 123
I should be there - maybe on time, maybe not. :2tsup:
All good intentions to be there.
Regards
Paul
Lance
Hope everything is ok?.
Will be there tomorrow chaps.
Cheers Matt.
But that 40 mins would be excellent Plane making time !!.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
Cheers Matt.
Sorry I couldn't make the last meet as I have built 4 chainsaw mills and used about about a dozen others so feel I could have contributed.
One of the best on-line sources for getting started with home chain saw milling is the only sticky thread (Milling 101) in Arboristsite.com Sawmilling subform
Milling & Saw Mills | Arboristsite.com I post there unser teh same username as here. You have to suffer the Americanisms but other than that there's loads of good info there.
I started the Milling 101 thread in 2009 and it now has around 195 posts in it. The Arboristsite forum also had a picture meltdown around the same time that WWF had its picture losses. For a few months I was granted access to restore the pics so most of mine have been reinserted.
A critical factor with successful chain saw milling is sharpening and this is discussed in grimy detail by me on this forum.
My methods were deemed so effective that my main thread on this topic was moved to be the only sticky in the "Hotsaws - sharpening" subform.
Chain Sharpening | Arboristsite.com
The specific thread is here Are FOP really progressive depth raker generators? | Arboristsite.com
I could do a presentation/demo at one of the meetings there was enough interest.
Thanks Matt, all is fine., my brain has just been getting an intense workout with work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
You should see if Mr Bushmillar can get you a job?Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceC
It seems to be a fairly relaxed affair, apart from the hours.
Cheers Matt
One the subject of CBN v Diamond wheels here is the tech tip from the Norton catalogue
Although diamond and cBN (cubic Boron Nitride) are both superabrasives, the use of diamond and cBN varies, depending upon the materials to be ground.
cBN Grinds:• High-speed tool steels• Die steel• Hardened carbon steels• Hardened stainless steels• Alloy steels• Aerospace alloys• Abrasion-resistantferrous materials
Diamond Grinds:• Cemented carbide• Glass• Ceramics• Fiberglass• Plastics• Composites• Abrasives• Stone• Electronic componentsand materials
In general, cBN is used to grind ferrous materials. Diamond is used to grind non-ferrous materials, because of an adverse reaction between diamond and iron.T
Another very good prattle.
This is a link to my shoulder plane blades
The original poster has PM'd me to say he would like one, but I am waiting for him to say which one. If any of you would like to use the remaining blades please let me know.
Regards
Paul
Another great catch up guys,
Cheers Matt.
Sorry I had to miss out. Hope you guy had fun.
Work meetings always get in the way around Friday lunchtime.
Hi All,
Can you believe it's nearly Friday!
The topic for this week will be around finishing. What is your go-to finish, and why do you love it so? If you don't have one, that's ok, you can listen in and ask questions of those who do.
I look forward to seeing you all again. Just a reminder to anyone who has not joined in before but is curious, it's a pretty chilled chat with no pressure to participate more than you want to (you will have to turn your camera on though, so be sure you are wearing a pair of trousers/dress).
Topic: Friday lunch prattle
Time: Friday, 12:00-12:40
Join Zoom Meeting
Launch Meeting - Zoom
Meeting ID: 789 4886 9892
Passcode: 123
I will be there, It might be too hot for trousers though.
Maybe shorts.
I’m a 50/50 chance tomorrow.
Cheers Matt.
Planing to be there, but I will have to decline on the dress as it does not show me to my best advantage.Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceC
:wink:
Regards
Paul
Thanks all for the insights into finishing products etc.
I've already ordered some bees wax and i'm sure that Dougs recipe is out there somewhere but hopefully he can share here as i didn't write it down.
The concrete sealer i was talking about is the solvent based version, my next door neighbor did plain sealed concrete flooring with his renovation and i got a couple litres from him to play with but haven't tried it on timber
1 Litre Pure Gum TurpentineQuote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
1 Litre Boiled Linseed Oil
qty of Beeswax
Grate beeswax and dissolve into the mixture of the other two components.
Start out with a lump about the size of a large egg.
If all that dissolves add a bit more until there is a small residue of undissolved beeswax in the bottom of the jar.
Stir or shake well before applying.
Apply thickly with a brush, rag or pour on and spread.
Apply several coats until it stops soaking in and pools on the surface
Let it soak in and wipe excess off with a cotton cloth.
Re-apply as required
Great for benches, tool handles, mallets, garden tools, metal items etc.
This is the place where I got my wax products. Carbatec in springvalue gave me their name - It's on the same street, Osborne Avenue.
I think I arrived late, so I missed out when this was shared by Doug,Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
I'd like to know if this was a wax oil mixture and how long would it take to cure?
Paul, it's a utility grade finish. Great for workbenches, tool handles, including gardening tools etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by justonething
I used it on my shed stool, but I would probably not use it on any timber furniture that you would sit on in your going-out clothes.
Also good for bare metal. It works on my holdfasts.
I normally put it on thick, let it soak in for 24 hours then wipe it off and buff it up a bit. It still takes a couple of days to dry out.
After wiping it down I use the cloth for wiping over the metal items. Of course take the usual precautions with used oily cloths to prevent combustion.
As i was waiting for my bees wax to arrive today i actually had to look up what pure gum turpentine actually was.... man that stuff has a bit of a reputation as one of the more nasty chemicals that we might generally use.... and this is from me who uses acetone for all sorts of things.Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
I mention it purely so anyone else not knowing much about will do their own due diligence on information.
I guess at least one key is use in a well ventilated area and don't sniff the fumes.
Cheers
Phil
And if I haven't already mentioned ... do not use on cutting boards etc that are used for food preparation or consumption. :no:Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
You should only be using food-grade mineral oil on these things anyway.
Doug and Phil,
Have you used Limonene? I think I'll use it as a substitute to gum turpentine. It dissolves wax quite readily and it smells nice and it's edible
Looks like it might be a good thing. Let me know how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by justonething
I only use Parrafin Oil which was one of the recommendations from here many years ago for cutting boards and kitchen knife handlesQuote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
umm, the product data sheet lists it as a poison in big red lettering so not sure i'm going to eat it.Quote:
Originally Posted by justonething
some of the beeswax polish industry moved to standard mineral turps when the price of gum turpentine went through the roof a few years back ... so round one for me will see mineral turps used as the solvent as i have some on hand ...
I had read that acetone was a solvent for bees wax but it doesn't seem to work .... was keen to try it on some ABS parts :)
That formula was given to me by my Grandfather. I vaguely recall there was a good reason for not using regular turps but I can't remember what it was.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
Grandad passed away in 1986 so I can't ask him. Dad probably knew but he is 89 and not so good in the memory department. He thinks I am still in the Army but I have been out for a quarter of a century, so probably no point in asking him either.
Why not give it a try and see how it goes. Let me know how it turns out.
i'd bet you 10:1 that the smell of mineral turps was a key negative... it seems less smelly these days than i remember it.
I found this article to be a interest Turpentine versus White Spirit in Beeswax Furniture Polish — and why it matters — Cambridge Traditional Products
I remember trying it out. I think turps create a suspension (like milk), but when dried, becomes a flaky mess. It gives a patchy spread when applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
I also remember liquid paraffin; on the other hand, readily dissolve wax well (accelerated by heat).
For what it's worth, my bees wax mix is just normal diggers brand turps, and it's been fine. But like I mentioned in the prattle, I've only been using it for a month or so, but my tool handles are very happy.
A brew that I found to be very good, especially on gun stocks, is equal parts beeswax, pine tree turps and raw linseed oil. Need to heat the brew to get it to mix and then I would apply it hot to timber that is warm, as on a hot summer's day leave it out in the sun.
Hi All,
It occurs to me that to date I have neglected power tools in our discussion. With that in mind, tomorrow's topic is about your favourite use for your electric router. Feel free to show jigs or examples of what you've used it for.
As always, any and all are welcome to join in, even if you don't have a power router.
Topic: Friday lunch prattle
Time: Friday 12:00-12:40 AEST
Join Zoom Meeting
Launch Meeting - Zoom
Meeting ID: 789 4886 9892
Passcode: 123
Oh router use.... nice - how about all the bought but unused router bits that seem to breed themselves into existence ... i have a least one that i'm not sure how it is even used :)
i've started some experiments with the linseed/turps/beeswax and have kicked off a dedicated thread for it https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/be...20#post2209891
I will be there, hopefully on time but you never know.
Will try to make this one.
Cheers Matt.