kitchen solid bench top corner problem.

AT those zip bolts dont have plastic threads they are metal and very fine guage threaded... super tight using very little pressure!
They have a chuck key like a drill chuck to be done up with a cordless drill... zipped up:)

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Originally Posted by apricotripper

Ta mate. whatever I put on, I'm thinking of just spraying it on. Got a compressor now. Can you put hot pots straight on it ?...Want something really hardy uno.


:rolleyes:...:D...I wonder if the whole process (just quietly) is considered acceptable, because its convienient for the cabinetmaker to do it this way ? ....I'm just still a bit worried about these mitres. I know its considered ok by the pro's and I'll do it, but the principle still worries me. Especially after I've got a really nice finish down on top all I need is 1/2mil gap to appear and it'll look shyt. who knows.

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I recon its the only way to go, considering that the timber expands differentially. As far as the gap goes when I was cutting mine with a small maketa I frupped up as the blade wasn't set correctly to 90 deg:((:((:(( anyway i do have a gap that goes from 0 -.1mm. :doh: I can't do much about it except drink copious quantities of alcohol so I don't notice it.:)

BTW I don't think there is a finish (for timber) that allows hot pots going on.

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

BTW I don't think there is a finish (for timber) that allows hot pots going on.

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None I've heard of, if you're not counting finishing the job by insetting a tile in the surface.:roll:

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Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

If you can't get any of the ones I showed you, I can post some up to you. Got a few spares laying around, they even come in a bag with 3 in it including the biscuits. Just PM your address and they're yours.
.

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Thankyou Kindly. I'll try and get them first. Else, I'd appreciate that. Try and find something I can do in return.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

I recon its the only way to go, considering that the timber expands differentially. As far as the gap goes when I was cutting mine with a small maketa I frupped up as the blade wasn't set correctly to 90 deg:((:((:(( anyway i do have a gap that goes from 0 -.1mm. :doh: I can't do much about it except drink copious quantities of alcohol so I don't notice it.:)

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Frustrating. I'll have to do it that way too.

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BTW I don't think there is a finish (for timber) that allows hot pots going on.

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Probably right. Just remember reading somewhere some product that claimed you could. If it exists, probably cost too much anyway.

Sorry Harry I didn't see your response about the Zip Bolts.
They must have changed then to metal (for the reasons I mentioned) after I had bought mine.

DGI whos website was posted in this thread sell there 2 pac finsh for timber bench tops, not 100% sure if it will take a red hot pot but it does take a fair amount of abusing.

I have also seen that wet glass epoxy used but it was clear coated with poly over the top to protect it from being damaged. That was for a commerical bar application.

thanks. that'll do me.

says....

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD width=160>Heat Stability </TD><TD>Unaffected by boiling water or heated plates and is heat stable to approx. 400°F (200°C)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

:2tsup:

I did an L-shaped kitchen benchtop about 15 years ago from 8 x 1 1/2 inch (Tasmanian) celery top pine. The join was mitred and there were loose tongues glued between the planks. I was not satisfied with the mitre - I didn't cut it accurately enough - so I routed a half inch trench over that join and epoxied in a batten. The bench was then sanded and given six coats of two-pot polyurethane on ALL surfaces. Light rub-down and two more coats every five years or so. Looks great and there have been no problems.

Nextdoor neighbour had a blackwood butcher block bench top professionally installed at same time at exorbitant cost. It cracked in about six weeks, was repaired many times and replaced twice. After about five years he had it replaced with a corian benchtop, and still loves it.

Not definitive, but food for thought.... or more confusion.

Cheers

Sounds like its not all about who does the work either. That even if you do the right thing it might still crack on you. Dependent on what the wood wants to do I guess.

I wonder if blackwood has a bad rep for this sort application.

blacxkwood is regarded as a stable timber Jake

ta Bob.

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Originally Posted by GraemeCook

... so I routed a half inch trench over that join and epoxied in a batten.

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That's a great idea! you could even use a contrasting coloured timber..could look quite classy.


Any tips that can be used to hide my poor workmanship are always appreciated.:D

Be good too to hide cracks should they appear later too.. Won't be able to run the router all the way to the edge of bench though due to the wall....chisel out that little bit by hand I spose. oh well. see what happens.

the boss still insists to dump the full mitre idea all together cause of potential movement problems.. Says butt, and mason mitre it to continue a edge profile around corners. Makes me wonder why that link provided above said its not recommended to use them ? ...