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Looking good Joel.
On the middle truss, get yourself some selfdrilling metal screws and put some in the pressed metal fittings to stop it sagging. It dosen't matter how tight you do those bolts up it will sag when you get on the roof to screw it down and it also helps if you put a temporary prop under it as well.
I agree totally!! Support that centre truss!! And whack in as many extra tecks you can... BETTER YET!! get a steel purlin and jam the buggar under it!! :o
No seriously... okay mine was 9x6 with 3mtr spans (ergo 2 trusses in the middle) which I think from memory yours is 6x3? then the centre one is 3 mtrs from both ends right? What happened with mine was the damned centre ones drooped BADLY! :o :~ So the only fix was to either take it down an start again reinforcing as much as possible as we put it back together... not an option!! We had ONE DAY to get that buggar up so takin it down wasnt an option... second choice to leave 2 of the lads working while me an one of the FSL bolted 100 klicks down the road to pick up 2 6mtr lengths of C channel from his dads farm the back 100 klicks... so we cut one length to fit the height and jammed tha buggar under the first middle truss this meant the shed wasnt wide open inside but still... then looking at the second truss it was also drooping badly so cut the remainder of the C channel to length and used it as a brace giving me one 3x6 area and one 6x6 area... and one length of C channel spare!! But by gawd shes up an that roof aint goin nowhere! :2tsup:
Otherwise Joel shes looking flamin brilliant! WELL DONE!! :2tsup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by djstimber
Thanks for the tip DJ and WD.... I will whack some extra teks in the apex brackets before i sheet the roof tomorrow.... :cool: and yep its a 6 x 3.5 x 2.7 (h)
Today was a fiddly day, took us till after lunch to sort out the roller door and the associated jambs etc... half the battle was its not a standard design with the roller door in the side which made life difficult, ended up having to buy a couple of extra brackets from the hardware store and some extra teks screws and some bolts etc to mount it.... the roller door came with coach screws for wood to mount its support brackets! (real bloody handy :rolleyes: ) got there in the end though :rolleyes: was a real royal PITA though....
Got the back wall sheets on, the PA door in and started doing the front wall sheeting... hopefully tomorrow (with all the fiddly crap out of the way) we will make some real head way.....
anyway..... progress shots from the end of day 2 below :2tsup:
Joel
Coming along nicely Joel :2tsup:, the roller doors can be fiddly buggers to put in can't they.
All done! Took 3 full days but we took our time and made sure we didnt make any mistakes :wink: All has turned out well... looks just like a bought one....
Only thing that needs to be done to the outside is the downpipes fitted.... but I am holding off on that cause I wanna see if I can find a small water tank that will fit behind the shed....
Here are some pics from the outside of the structure all finished :2tsup:
And a pic of the inside, I have since fitted 4 large metal shelving units in the shed and started filling it up and have started moving in my tools and machines from the small shed next door (will now be the garden and storage shed)... I will post pics soon of it getting fitted out.
I have also run all the wiring (will post some pics when I take em) and mounted all the points, just waiting for my electrician to come along and hook up the juice :D
Final pic is of the middle apex bracket with extra teks as suggested :wink: It didnt move at all when the roof went on :2tsup: (I actually put extra teks in all the apex and haunch brackets.... 'just in casers' ;))
Well done mate :2tsup:, you have done a excellent job there, better than the professionals I reckon :roll:.
Now tell me, what are all those left over bits on the ground :o
Mate looking at that shed just gave me flashbacks of when I lived in Canberra as a kid. The old man had a shed not disimilar but he kept a tiger moth in it that he was doing up with a mate. Next an old Austin.
It was cool having a plane* in your garage as a kid.
*Flying type not a darksiders toy.
PS Great shed don't get lost in there.
LOL, actually I have a couple of full 3m sheets of colorbond left over, plus some rather large offcuts (plus the 'cover sheets' which are in pretty good nick). When supplying the wall sheets they must give you enough sheets to clad the shed if you dont have a PA door or any windows... :Shrugs:Quote:
Originally Posted by djstimber
Anyway, now I have plenty to make my daughter a matching cubby house when she gets a little older :wink: :cool: Will just store it under the house.
Bleedin, not quite big enough to get lost in but I will damn sure try my hardest ;)
Joel are those trusses C15015's? If so they wont sag in your lifetime as long as you dont hook up a block and tackle to lift your new lathe into position.....
Great work, mongrel bloody roller doors are the bain of my existance. I wil NEVER muck around with one again. :2tsup:
When is the christening/forum get together/bbq happening?:roll:
Pete
Hi DJ;JDub; and others,
Have spent the last half hour reading through your developments with the shed.There were some very good points brought out before you got too far down the track, Wall height important because at 2.4 you would have had trouble with your roller door, as the roll takes up 380 mm.
You selected a gable roof with sisilation instead of a skillion like a lot do. Even at 15 degree pitch you will get condensation dripping from the purlins on a cold morning, let alone when there has been a frost. Not sure why you ended up so far from boundary line, in Vic it is legal to build on the boundary line(making sure spouting and downpipes are inside that line). I agree with your comments about roller doors, lucky you didn't have a motor installed, trying to fine tune those is a lot of fun, and also if yoy break or cut the bands before you have them bolted and tensioned you really know you are alive. As someone mentioned you cannot have enough power points or lights. I believe a power point should always be a double and that double addaptors should not be used under any circumstances. I built my first shed ten years ago out of brick (8m x9m) and the extension 12 months ago (8m x 8m) The frame was welded up by my son and it is covered in colourbond. I don't know whether I should mention power points and lights but here goes ............. Power points 28 double 10A, 14 double 15A on 12 circuits. The brick section is the way to go, especially on a hot day probably 10 - 12 degrees cooler.
I should perhaps mention that I was a builder for 12 years and a Trade teacher in the tech system for 25 years before I retired, so there were very little labour costs, I poured the slab, helped the brickie labouring, wired it all under the supervision of the sparky, and purchased all materials, light fittings, roller doors, windows, etc from firms I have dealt with for over 30 years, so the price was more than right, OK I have rattled on for too long, so Joel you and your mates have done an excellent job, I have seen sheds put up 'professionally' and they are a bloody disgrace, One more thing, with the good ladies approval in a few years, you may be able to extend out on the end where the old shed is, which would be excellent.
All the Best fellas,
Regards,
Ron.
Thanks for the comments Ron :D Your workshop certainly sounds like its well equipt :2tsup:
its hard to tell from the pics but the small shed is actually on a different level to the big one (sits about a foot lower with small concrete barrier around the back of it holding back the soil) so thats why the small shed stayed and the big one wasnt bigger.... it was simply to costly and difficult to get both areas on the same level (involved a lot more excavation and bigger retaining walls etc). I think it will be good anyway to have a separate area for storage and garden crap so it doesnt slowly take up room in the workshop.....
With regards to electrical supply this is what I have done/ am doing....
-5 x double 10A powerpoints on one circuit... given the relatively small size of the shed this means I dont have to go more than about 2m to find a point.
-1 x double 10A point in the old (now garden shed)... maybe on its own circuit too, the power will run from the board in the new shed.
-1 x lighting circuit for the fluros and the outside floodlight.
-I havnt put in any 15A points yet because I dont own anything that requires it... I will get my sparky to leave a spare spot in the sub board in case I need to get a 15A point in the future I think..... :? or maybe I should just put 1 x 15a point in now even though I may never use it???:?
Will post some pics of what Ive done so far (electrical) hopefully in the next couple of days....:cool:
Cheers
Joel
Joel, where the cladding sheets meet the slab, what is there to stop the water running down the outside of the walls, then under and into the shed?
I thought the cladding would come down lower than the top of the slab (ie frame edges would be level with outsides of the slab then cladding come down on the outsides of the slab and lower than the top level?) (see bodgy drawing :- )
close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).
It looks like there's a pre formed flashing there that overhangs the slab a bit, but it doesn't go all the way to the corner.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberNut
I'd be more worried about water running down the roller door, and blowing under it. It looks like there's a slight fall to the outside under the door. A small step in the slab, behind the door would have been a good idea.
G'day JDub,Quote:
Originally Posted by pawnhead
Or to take Pawnhead's idea, a simpler one may be to fix a length of rubber stripping from Clarke Rubber along the width and on the inside of the r/door to solve what will become a problem when it rains heavy enough. I've seen it done and solve the problem very simply in similar situations used on gates etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberNut
No, the cladding does indeed go down past the slab exactly like you have drawn in your picture, it extends about an inch below the finished level of the slab. It may look like it doesnt as I have put 'vermaseal' plastic edging around the perimetre to stop mice getting in through the gaps created by the wall ribs.
Here is a link to the stuff Im talking about
http://www.shedproducts.com/prod2-vermaseal.html
I will post a pic of it when I put up the pics of the electrical stuff.....
the roller door has a weather seal already attached and when closed forms a seal......Quote:
Originally Posted by Waldo
Joel, a close up picture of that'd be awesome when you can (if you would be so kind...)
thanks.
Another way to seal under the door is to put a rebate in the concrete after it is poured and the whirlybird has finished, I put a rebate 100mm wide by 25mm deep under both doors, this along with the rubber seal that is already on the door will not allow any water under at all.In the recent downpour two weeks ago, we had 63mm straight at the door, not a drop inside just run along the rebate and out again.
Cheers,
Ron.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberNut
Here ya go Timbernut,
A pic of the outside and inside of the plastic vermaseal edge. It is a pic next to the PA door. The plastic edge sits on top of the slab edge on the inside and extends down and forms a lip on the outside about 25-30mm below the finished edge of the concrete... the sheeting sits on this lip. make sense?:-
3rd pic is how I ended up mounting the points, thanks for those who gave suggestions in the thread in the electrical forum.... :2tsup: Now if only I get the sparky out :rolleyes:
Joel
Had a busy weekend filling up my shed :)
Last weekend I put in some tall metal shelving bays I scored at a very good price second hand (its not what you know, its who you know:cool: ) they are 2.4 high so fit nicely against the 2.7 walls.
I also put up a peg board and moved in power tools..... left all the garden stuff in the other shed so I have plenty of room (although it fills up quick doesnt it :rolleyes: :wink: ).......
Ahhhhhh, I love my new shed :2tsup:
Hi JDub,
Glad to see you are having a great time settling in.:2tsup:
Those vermashield pictures are very interesting! Any chance on letting us know what it cost you?
Cheers
Wendy
Hi Wendy, wasnt much about $100-$150 for the whole shed.... About $10 a metre I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by rufflyrustic
Brilliant!!! Thanks!
Cheers
Wendy
is the vermashield stuck down? siliconed or anything? or is it just put in place then the sheets put in place to hold it there?
Joel
Love your shed - just wish it was mine!!!
The envy is gettting too much for me.
Cheers
Jeremy
Thanks Jeremy :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberNut
Nope not fixed at all, the sheets hold it firmly in place. :2tsup:
Looks great Joel, those shelves fit in nicely between the columns
Yer perfect actually DJ :2tsup: more good luck than good judgement ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by djstimber
Got the power issues sorted out with your shed yet?
Nah, being a bit busy and have also been dragging my a#*e a bit as well, still have to fill & submit the paperwork. When it comes to paperwork, it can get pushed aside and can take me a week or 2 to finally sort it out.
Looks like I will have a couple of free days this week and will get onto it then.
JDub
MANY Thanks for posting the info about the vermaseal. :2tsup: I've just amended my order to have it included. Well worth the few extra dollars!!!
Cheers
Wendy
Electrician is at my place this morning, before I left for work I helped him chase the main 6mm cable from the switch board, under the house (very tight squeeze in some spots!) and then to the shed sub board .... I should have power on the weekend!!! Wooo HOoooo :2tsup:
so what cable has he run to subboard? just 6mm twin with separate earth wire? or 6mm twin+earth?
Not running 3-phase I take it?
did you run anything special at the main board? new 80AMP main switch or anything?
Its 6mm twin + earth (same cable).... nope not running 3 phase, I dont really need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberNut
Not sure mate, I ran all the wires and conduit, mounted the lights and points and am letting my electrician sort out that stuff. He is good electrician so I let him do what he thinks is best. :wink: :cool:
All I know is there is a new safety switch on the main board then the 6mm cable runs to the shed to a sub board with 4 circuit breakers on it.
Joel:2tsup:
thanks for that. should you remember, and have a chance, can you ask him what main switch you run?
basically, your street supply goes into the meter box - through huge fuses, then to your meters, then to a main ON/OFF switch. From there, to each circuit breaker and then to that circuit.
effectively you are adding 4 shed circuits through one circuit breaker at the main board. these all go through that main ON/OFF switch increasing the load going through it.
Either your existing main switch has enough capacity to cater for it, or he'll put in another main isolating switch for it.
Just wondering what he was going to do.
Then again, if this is all too much to remember, don't worry. I've gotta discuss with an electrician anyways when I finally get around to building a decent shed (one day...)
Cheers.
Nah dont worry, Im following you :wink:
Im 95% sure he isnt putting in any isolating switch, Im assuming my existing main switch has enough capacity to handle the extra load.
I will ask him though if I remember. :D
Cheers
Joel
Well its finally all done, its been a long road but the shed is finished!!
My electrician was round on friday and wired up all my points and sub board for me :D
Pic 1: The sub board, I just mounted some 12mm ply and ran the conduit though the face, I was orginally going to go through the wall girts but my cheap hole saw wouldnt cut through the metal.... this worked anyway and turned out pretty neat and my electrician was happy with it. The single point next to the board is a 15a point, in case I need it in the future.
Pic 2: The lights mounted, I went with three double fluros for the main lighting and one double fluro hung a bit lower for above the workbench (pending, workbench will be my first WIP in the new shed)
Pic 3: the ceiling plugs the lights are mounted too, some clever fella on the WWF suggested doing this in case I ever need to add extra lights, that way no need for an electrician, just a double adaptor.
Pic 4: Enjoying a well earned beer in my new sanctuary :2tsup: note: only one chair as per the code :wink:
G'day Jdub,
Top stuff, good to see the priorities worked out too - you've got something done so you crack open a beer. :2tsup:
Now it's time to get some dust covering everything and shavings all over the floor. If you don't know what the stuff looks like I can post a photo for you. :D
Congrats JDub! I wish you many happy hours in your shed. :2tsup:
cheers
Wendy
Nice shed mate, came out well in the end.
Agree with Waldo... time to get the saw dust flyin!